na is burning oil like a bitch
#1
stop stealing my avatar
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Location: Canton MI
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na is burning oil like a bitch
my NA is smoking at full throtle, usually at 5k+. the car will bog and hesitate I am guessing that that is from it choking on the burning oil. Then when you let off the gas to shift it will puff a HUGE and I mean HUGE cloud of smoke. The other night I was racing my friend home from school (32 miles) and I went through a full qt of oil.
The weird thing is that if it drive it normally the car will not burn one drop of oil more than what is usual. the car runs and drives grate it is one of the best running fcs that I have seen.
I think that the OMP is the problem and was wondering if it was adjustable. I was thinking of disconnecting the rod that connects the OMP to the throttle and see if that makes the smoke go away. Can I just put the 2stroke oil in the gas and un hook the rod? or do I have to remove the injection lines?
The weird thing is that if it drive it normally the car will not burn one drop of oil more than what is usual. the car runs and drives grate it is one of the best running fcs that I have seen.
I think that the OMP is the problem and was wondering if it was adjustable. I was thinking of disconnecting the rod that connects the OMP to the throttle and see if that makes the smoke go away. Can I just put the 2stroke oil in the gas and un hook the rod? or do I have to remove the injection lines?
#3
I have the same problem as you and thought it was the mop. So I poured in 2stroke oil in the gas tank and disconnected the mop and guess what? same cloud of smoke right after 5k rpm. Could this greyish white looking smoke be excessive fuel?
#7
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hey guys i am still not sure if its the OMp or not but the factory shop manual has a way to check it.
u can read it urself at:
Http:\\www.iluvmyrx7.com\
they have the manuals in pdf format there.
basically it sez to take 2 of the 4 lines off at the omp and with the car running at 2000 rpms for 5 mins u should get 4.2-5.6 cc of oil. i havnt tried this yet but i will this weekend.
as far as i can tell the only things that could cause our problem are the omp or bad oil control rings. there is also supposed to be a constant oil pressure regulator thingy that might do it. that would make sense since we get it when cold and at high rpm- both high oil pressure areas. anyway im gonna check mine out this weekend. i'll let everybody know what i find. if anybody has any ideas post away!
u can read it urself at:
Http:\\www.iluvmyrx7.com\
they have the manuals in pdf format there.
basically it sez to take 2 of the 4 lines off at the omp and with the car running at 2000 rpms for 5 mins u should get 4.2-5.6 cc of oil. i havnt tried this yet but i will this weekend.
as far as i can tell the only things that could cause our problem are the omp or bad oil control rings. there is also supposed to be a constant oil pressure regulator thingy that might do it. that would make sense since we get it when cold and at high rpm- both high oil pressure areas. anyway im gonna check mine out this weekend. i'll let everybody know what i find. if anybody has any ideas post away!
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#9
Round&Round not Up&Down
Join Date: Aug 2001
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Mark,
I would say it's the oil control rings. The guy I bought that car from bought it from the original owner and that is the original engine with 165K....or close to that.
I would say it's the oil control rings. The guy I bought that car from bought it from the original owner and that is the original engine with 165K....or close to that.
#10
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Originally posted by Aaron Cake
Worn side seals. Rebuild engine.
Worn side seals. Rebuild engine.
You have classic symptoms of oil control O-rings that are bad. I've rebuilt a few motors that were like that, and the good news is most oil burners are great rebuild candidates. The extra oil keeps everything mighty nice looking inside. Heck, my '86 base with 178,000 miles was an oil burner - I did a basic rebuild, and it's pulling 20 inches of vacuum at idle with the 6-ports open! Nice and tight motor.
Anyhow, you can drive the car for a LONG time with bad oil seals - if you drive normally and keep the RPM's down, you will probably never see smoke. If you still have the cats on, keep 'em on - they absorb a LOT of the oil smoke. Going with full open exhaust will make for a much bigger smoke show.
The cause is high oil temperatures, usually caused by infrequent oil changes or driving the car with a low oil supply. The high oil temps bake the rubber O-rings, and they disintegrate. Most oil pumpers I've been through had NO oil control o-rings left!
Dale
#12
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Oil burners will typically have excellent compression. All the extra oil in the combustion chamber makes for very good compression!
Dale
Dale
#14
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My 89 RX Conv is blowing smoke like crazy too. It does it soon after startup and eventually blows it all out. It's worse if the car has been sitting for a few days. It blows so much smoke sometimes the the whole neighborhood gets clouded up. The smoke is kind of bluish white and definitely smells like oil and I'm going through about a quart of oil for every 100 miles or so. I've had a mechanic tell me that it's "probably" the O-ring. He recomended rebuilding the engine. It's got 150k on it and I've had it since it had about 50k.
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I'm using 20/50 now. The lube shop recently put synthetic 10/30 oil in it and that's when the problem seemed to start. After about a week my oil level warning came on so I went back to the Lube shop and they topped it off (it was 2 quarts low). The owner told the tech that he shouldn't have put synthetic in it and told him to drain it and fill it with mineral oil. I'm still using about a quart for every 100 miles.
The trouble with a rebuild is where can I find someone who is knowledgeable with rotary's? No one I've spoken too around here (mechanics) really seem to know what they're talking about. I live in the Sacramento area. Is there some way to find a good rotary mechanic in my area?
The trouble with a rebuild is where can I find someone who is knowledgeable with rotary's? No one I've spoken too around here (mechanics) really seem to know what they're talking about. I live in the Sacramento area. Is there some way to find a good rotary mechanic in my area?
#19
Originally posted by GR8PIPES
I'm using 20/50 now. The lube shop recently put synthetic 10/30 oil in it and that's when the problem seemed to start. After about a week my oil level warning came on so I went back to the Lube shop and they topped it off (it was 2 quarts low). The owner told the tech that he shouldn't have put synthetic in it and told him to drain it and fill it with mineral oil. I'm still using about a quart for every 100 miles.
The trouble with a rebuild is where can I find someone who is knowledgeable with rotary's? No one I've spoken too around here (mechanics) really seem to know what they're talking about. I live in the Sacramento area. Is there some way to find a good rotary mechanic in my area?
I'm using 20/50 now. The lube shop recently put synthetic 10/30 oil in it and that's when the problem seemed to start. After about a week my oil level warning came on so I went back to the Lube shop and they topped it off (it was 2 quarts low). The owner told the tech that he shouldn't have put synthetic in it and told him to drain it and fill it with mineral oil. I'm still using about a quart for every 100 miles.
The trouble with a rebuild is where can I find someone who is knowledgeable with rotary's? No one I've spoken too around here (mechanics) really seem to know what they're talking about. I live in the Sacramento area. Is there some way to find a good rotary mechanic in my area?
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