2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

n00b To Rotaries. Need some help!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 03:57 PM
  #1  
Mike's_2nd_Gen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Texas
n00b To Rotaries. Need some help!!

I just picked up a non-turbo '89 RX-7 and Im having some problems. The main problem I am having is finding parts for it. It seems that from my searching most companies didn't really pick up on the RX-7 until the 3rd Gen models. So is there any places that may cater to us 2nd Gen owners??

Next up, my car has a problem with the ignition switch. It won't roll back to the lock position and it has a drain in the battery because of it. I tried installing a kill switch to the battery on the negative terminal. It worked to kill power coming from the battery but when I flipped the switch to the on position and tried to start it, I got a clicking noise coming from the starter. Why could this be? I used an 8 AWG wire and a 25 volt constant rated switch. I just dont know why it doesn't work. Any help or suggestions? Thanks guys, and gals.
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 05:04 PM
  #2  
JinZemog's Avatar
My FCs' are 5 foot pretty
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, CO
RacingBeat.com
Corksport.com
Mazdatrix.com
Rx7.com
ebay searches for FC3S
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 07:54 PM
  #3  
Mike's_2nd_Gen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Cool. Thanks man. I really appreciate that.

I am also having another problem that I forgot to mention. Its with my clutch pedal. When I start me car, I have to manually pull the clutch pedal back out and pump it. I have to do this quite often if I leave the clutch pedal in for too long while shifting gears as well. It makes it good, as I have to double clutch, but its a pain in the *** during stop and go traffic. Basically, when I pul up to a stop light I have to put the car into neutral and coast to the light then when it changes I have to depress the clutch and shift back into first gear. I cant feather the clutch at all. What could cause this??
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 08:18 PM
  #4  
Turbo II Rotor's Avatar
Who Shot the Sheriff?
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,858
Likes: 2
From: Aurora, CO
Your clutch master seal is leaking pressure. You can rebould the master for abt $20 or just pick up a new one. I would also change the slave too. I believe I saw someone selling both in the sale section for $90 shipped.
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 10:34 PM
  #5  
Mike's_2nd_Gen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Sweet. Thanks for the help man. I really appreciate it.
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 11:39 PM
  #6  
xclusive_one's Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: socal
sounds like hydraulic problems ... might also be air in the system....good places are like mentioned... mazdatrix ... rx7.com just depends what your looking for... im pretty new too and I found that buying on the forum has been benificial. I found an original rb that was discontinued, some interior pieces, and some mesh rims all for really cheap. good luck
Reply
Old Jul 5, 2007 | 11:54 PM
  #7  
Mike's_2nd_Gen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Ok one more question about the clutch master cylinder. Where is it located?? I got to looking but couldnt find it. Im sure its somewhere near the trans but where??

Also, I have been looking into building my car into a race ready car. It is a standard non turbo car with a 5 speed. Would I need to completely swap the motor to handle a twin turbo set, or could I just have it rebuilt? Also, keep in mind its the stock motor with 180k on it. I would like to eventually have a car with twin turbos and NOS pushing somewhere in the range of 500 hp without NOS. Any suggestions??
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:15 AM
  #8  
celbii's Avatar
jackie chan > chuck norri
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 706
Likes: 4
From: oklahoma city
I've been able to find every part I needed for my 88 NA at any autoparts store, autozone, advanced auto, napa, ect ect. Noted I did have to have every single part for it special ordered, they still had them.

Edit: I beleive that the master cylinder is right next to the drivers side corner of the engine bay near the windshield that corner, should be a round cylinder with a black cap.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:24 AM
  #9  
Mike's_2nd_Gen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Texas
^I thought that was the brake master cylinder??
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:26 AM
  #10  
celbii's Avatar
jackie chan > chuck norri
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 706
Likes: 4
From: oklahoma city
Originally Posted by Mike's_2nd_Gen
^I thought that was the brake master cylinder??
I thought it was also when i pourd brake fluid into it haha. the brake one is the whiteish rectangular box that is to the left and under it.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:28 AM
  #11  
Mike's_2nd_Gen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Ah sweet. Thanks for that man. I was looking under the car by the trans thinking it would be down there somewhere. Guess I should have asked earlier. lol
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:32 AM
  #12  
celbii's Avatar
jackie chan > chuck norri
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 706
Likes: 4
From: oklahoma city
Not a problem =) glad I could help.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:37 AM
  #13  
TTrashFC's Avatar
Junior Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: California
I would recommend if you have about 75$ go and replace both your master and slave cylinders on you clutch. Also buying a steel braided clutch line adds a lot more pressure, its great. You should look into it.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:46 AM
  #14  
Mike's_2nd_Gen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Thanks man. I will look into that. Im hoping that I can get away with just rebuilding the master cylinder cause its like $100 for a new one here. But I will probably replace the slave. But I will look into replacing the lines. How hard is that??
Reply
Old Jul 11, 2007 | 10:41 AM
  #15  
JinZemog's Avatar
My FCs' are 5 foot pretty
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, CO
I assume your talking about swapping to the 3rd gen twin turbo 13bREW engine. It does not simply bolt in. Lots of fabrication and new wiring.
Your best bet is to buy a ported rebuilt series 4 turbo II engine and go from there. Look in the 2nd gen FAQ for N/A to turbo swap. There are a lot of parts and work involved.
You CAN NOT simply turbo your N/A. The N/A engines have higher compression and with 180k miles the engine would not last long at all. Hell, its probably not going to last much longer anyway. Start saving up or sell a kidney for that turbo swap.
Reply
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 12:53 AM
  #16  
JinZemog's Avatar
My FCs' are 5 foot pretty
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, CO
I see you have an '89 / S5. You should buy a jspec Series 5 turbo motor and have it ported and rebuilt.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
Sep 16, 2018 07:16 PM
California style
Introduce yourself
0
Aug 26, 2015 03:45 AM
LionheartC2K
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
41
Mar 22, 2003 04:31 PM
rob1out
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
3
Mar 2, 2002 02:24 PM
phr34k3z
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
1
Sep 16, 2001 07:51 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:51 AM.