n00b To Rotaries. Need some help!!
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n00b To Rotaries. Need some help!!
I just picked up a non-turbo '89 RX-7 and Im having some problems. The main problem I am having is finding parts for it. It seems that from my searching most companies didn't really pick up on the RX-7 until the 3rd Gen models. So is there any places that may cater to us 2nd Gen owners??
Next up, my car has a problem with the ignition switch. It won't roll back to the lock position and it has a drain in the battery because of it. I tried installing a kill switch to the battery on the negative terminal. It worked to kill power coming from the battery but when I flipped the switch to the on position and tried to start it, I got a clicking noise coming from the starter. Why could this be? I used an 8 AWG wire and a 25 volt constant rated switch. I just dont know why it doesn't work. Any help or suggestions? Thanks guys, and gals.
Next up, my car has a problem with the ignition switch. It won't roll back to the lock position and it has a drain in the battery because of it. I tried installing a kill switch to the battery on the negative terminal. It worked to kill power coming from the battery but when I flipped the switch to the on position and tried to start it, I got a clicking noise coming from the starter. Why could this be? I used an 8 AWG wire and a 25 volt constant rated switch. I just dont know why it doesn't work. Any help or suggestions? Thanks guys, and gals.
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Cool. Thanks man. I really appreciate that.
I am also having another problem that I forgot to mention. Its with my clutch pedal. When I start me car, I have to manually pull the clutch pedal back out and pump it. I have to do this quite often if I leave the clutch pedal in for too long while shifting gears as well. It makes it good, as I have to double clutch, but its a pain in the *** during stop and go traffic. Basically, when I pul up to a stop light I have to put the car into neutral and coast to the light then when it changes I have to depress the clutch and shift back into first gear. I cant feather the clutch at all. What could cause this??
I am also having another problem that I forgot to mention. Its with my clutch pedal. When I start me car, I have to manually pull the clutch pedal back out and pump it. I have to do this quite often if I leave the clutch pedal in for too long while shifting gears as well. It makes it good, as I have to double clutch, but its a pain in the *** during stop and go traffic. Basically, when I pul up to a stop light I have to put the car into neutral and coast to the light then when it changes I have to depress the clutch and shift back into first gear. I cant feather the clutch at all. What could cause this??
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sounds like hydraulic problems ... might also be air in the system....good places are like mentioned... mazdatrix ... rx7.com just depends what your looking for... im pretty new too and I found that buying on the forum has been benificial. I found an original rb that was discontinued, some interior pieces, and some mesh rims all for really cheap. good luck
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Ok one more question about the clutch master cylinder. Where is it located?? I got to looking but couldnt find it. Im sure its somewhere near the trans but where??
Also, I have been looking into building my car into a race ready car. It is a standard non turbo car with a 5 speed. Would I need to completely swap the motor to handle a twin turbo set, or could I just have it rebuilt? Also, keep in mind its the stock motor with 180k on it. I would like to eventually have a car with twin turbos and NOS pushing somewhere in the range of 500 hp without NOS. Any suggestions??
Also, I have been looking into building my car into a race ready car. It is a standard non turbo car with a 5 speed. Would I need to completely swap the motor to handle a twin turbo set, or could I just have it rebuilt? Also, keep in mind its the stock motor with 180k on it. I would like to eventually have a car with twin turbos and NOS pushing somewhere in the range of 500 hp without NOS. Any suggestions??
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jackie chan > chuck norri
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I've been able to find every part I needed for my 88 NA at any autoparts store, autozone, advanced auto, napa, ect ect. Noted I did have to have every single part for it special ordered, they still had them.
Edit: I beleive that the master cylinder is right next to the drivers side corner of the engine bay near the windshield that corner, should be a round cylinder with a black cap.
Edit: I beleive that the master cylinder is right next to the drivers side corner of the engine bay near the windshield that corner, should be a round cylinder with a black cap.
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I would recommend if you have about 75$ go and replace both your master and slave cylinders on you clutch. Also buying a steel braided clutch line adds a lot more pressure, its great. You should look into it.
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Thanks man. I will look into that. Im hoping that I can get away with just rebuilding the master cylinder cause its like $100 for a new one here. But I will probably replace the slave. But I will look into replacing the lines. How hard is that??
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I assume your talking about swapping to the 3rd gen twin turbo 13bREW engine. It does not simply bolt in. Lots of fabrication and new wiring.
Your best bet is to buy a ported rebuilt series 4 turbo II engine and go from there. Look in the 2nd gen FAQ for N/A to turbo swap. There are a lot of parts and work involved.
You CAN NOT simply turbo your N/A. The N/A engines have higher compression and with 180k miles the engine would not last long at all. Hell, its probably not going to last much longer anyway. Start saving up or sell a kidney for that turbo swap.
Your best bet is to buy a ported rebuilt series 4 turbo II engine and go from there. Look in the 2nd gen FAQ for N/A to turbo swap. There are a lot of parts and work involved.
You CAN NOT simply turbo your N/A. The N/A engines have higher compression and with 180k miles the engine would not last long at all. Hell, its probably not going to last much longer anyway. Start saving up or sell a kidney for that turbo swap.
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