N/A for Turbo II transsmision swap
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N/A for Turbo II transsmision swap
Alright, everyone and their grandma has a different idea about what is required to do a conversion. From some I hear it just bolts right in, and works with the non-turbo driveshaft/etc. From others, I hear that you need a different driveshaft, and then from their grandma's I hear you need the differntial and halfshafts as well! Does anyone who *HAS* done this conversion, have any input as in to what is needed to do it? I don't want to hear what you think or what you've been told, I want an answer from somebody who knows! (Flamers spare yourself the time and go find that v8 guy)
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Re: N/A for Turbo II transsmision swap
Originally posted by SonicRaT
Alright, everyone and their grandma has a different idea about what is required to do a conversion. From some I hear it just bolts right in, and works with the non-turbo driveshaft/etc. From others, I hear that you need a different driveshaft, and then from their grandma's I hear you need the differntial and halfshafts as well! Does anyone who *HAS* done this conversion, have any input as in to what is needed to do it? I don't want to hear what you think or what you've been told, I want an answer from somebody who knows! (Flamers spare yourself the time and go find that v8 guy)
Alright, everyone and their grandma has a different idea about what is required to do a conversion. From some I hear it just bolts right in, and works with the non-turbo driveshaft/etc. From others, I hear that you need a different driveshaft, and then from their grandma's I hear you need the differntial and halfshafts as well! Does anyone who *HAS* done this conversion, have any input as in to what is needed to do it? I don't want to hear what you think or what you've been told, I want an answer from somebody who knows! (Flamers spare yourself the time and go find that v8 guy)
TII tranny
TII driveshaft (NA won't fit the tranny)
TII differential and halfshafts (NA won't bolt to TII driveshaft... note that it is MUCH easier to swap the entire rear subframe than just these components.)
TII flywheel (different size, TII bellhousing is bigger but bolts up the same)
TII clutch and pressure plate (to fit TII flywheel and tranny input shaft)
TII starter (to mate up with TII bellhousing and flywheel)
TII clutch slave cylinder (mounting "ears" are in a different location than on the NA unit)
Some wire and connectors to extend the wires for the reverse light switch, shift light switch, etc.
I'm not positive if the tranny crossmember is the same or not. I just swapped it without comparing.
I suggest a new throwout bearing and pilot bearing when you do this swap- you don't want to have to pull the tranny again soon do you?
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What about cutting a N/A & T2 driveshaft and combinging them? Could that resolve the problem of swapping the entire rear end? I know a crapload of people around here that do driveshaft work.
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
What about cutting a N/A & T2 driveshaft and combinging them? Could that resolve the problem of swapping the entire rear end? I know a crapload of people around here that do driveshaft work.
What about cutting a N/A & T2 driveshaft and combinging them? Could that resolve the problem of swapping the entire rear end? I know a crapload of people around here that do driveshaft work.
1) ALL TII differentials are LSD of one form or another. Many NA differenttials are not.
2) TII differentials and halfshafts are stronger. The NA one is probably strong enough for stock TII power or just a bit more... but I wouldn't go beyond about 220-230HP.
3) ALL TIIs come with 5-lug wheels, 4 piston front brakes, and vented rear brakes. Not true for NA cars- some have it, some don't.
4) Cutting a driveshaft and welding it is one option. Another is to have a driveshaft shop just put the TII yoke on for you. That would work just fine.
5) A TII driveshaft, diff, and halfshafts (or the whole subframe assembly) aren't THAT expensive.
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Ahh, i'm picking up a GXL in lower michigan, hell of a haul and nowhere within 4 hours of here would have the rearend I need (I've looked!) So if it can be done by just swapping yokes, that will save me the need for other problems as well? (it'll be bolting onto a tII jspec, so the flywheel/clutchplates will fit) Also, I've heard of some people running around 350 in their stock GXL's without grenading the rearend's. I think the GXL had a limited slip in it, but i'm not quite positive, I can't find much information reguarding the GXL's, any ideas?
Flinstone Power
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
I am doing a simular swap but with the T2 motor and trans though. So are the driveshafts the same length then cuz I have been told that the T2 one is shoter than the N/A and I also useing my N/A LSD with the good brake package. so I am keeping the rear for a while. So if its the same length I can just switch yokes?? Thanks Dave
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That's my question as well, why hasn't anyone tried to play with the driveshafts more? I doubt the n/a rearend will blow out with stock T2 performance. I guess I'll have to see next week when I bolt the T2 tranny into place, and see if the driveshaft needs to be 'adjusted'
I'll keep you guys informed, and document my every move, and ever 'adjustment' needed to use the stock rearend with a t2 engine/trans.
I'll keep you guys informed, and document my every move, and ever 'adjustment' needed to use the stock rearend with a t2 engine/trans.
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I am doing the T2 tranny and diff swap in my vert ... Originally I was goin to do trans only, and the tranny I got from a guy who put a 5.0 in so with the tranny he sold me the two haves of the drive shaft I would haved needed ... T2 to tranny and N/A to diff... make me an offer ... I also found a t2 diff and driveshaft so that is the way I am goin ... diff and halfshafts are much stronger ...
Thread Starter
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I might be intrested when my rearend blows up and I have to drag the car home, or my driveshafts splits in half due to bad welds and i really go for a ride
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