killalot13601

iTrader: (5)

Alrighty here is the full story some may be able to learn from it once its all done.

Ok so I bought a non running 1987 N/A Rx7 about 2 years ago, did some minor stuff like clean the injectors and rip out that dirty old AC compressor/all its components. It started after all that. It ran i drove it for a day, decided it wasnt what I wanted power wise.

Its a 5 speed just for the record.

I had a 05 Ion Redline, it is rated about about 210fwhp, it was basicly a car that could pass someone without taking all day and if i want to the tracks it would run low 14s.

The rx7 was on the path for a project, I decided for now untill i learned my rotory which didnt take me long after the concept was burnt into my brain. Well when i first bought the car I ordered a T4 Manifold just incase I ever wanted to go turbo. The manifold came with a T4-T3 adapater and I just happened to have a cheap T3/t4 turbo laying around. I grab the rest ofthe nessary parts which were basicly flanges for the downpipe, a 40mm wastegate, and a Type-S Greddy BOV. And we cant forget your standard braided steel oil lines.

Back in july I went on a war path, took out that goofy stock N/A manifold, and everything to the end of the CATs. I put in the new Manifold, bolted up the turbo and made sure i had clearence for everything. Which I do, theres plenty of room, I have all the oil lines ran and hooked up. I took off the actuators and wired open the ports, the only thing that HAD to go cuz of manifold problems was the little unit in between the 2 acuators, Im notshure what it does but it colts directly to the manifold, I was figuring on it controling the actualyors in some way. Anyways its off but still intacked, besides that one peice everything seems ready to go. I checked all fluids and everything needed for that.

I started the car and everytime it just starts shoots to about 3k RPMs for a second or two then shuts right down. I know i prolly need to make a block off plate for were the unit usta sit that i described above, besides that unit any other possible reasons why it would do that? I do have the MAF on pre turbo. How should i go about not using a maf but just running my injectors with a pressure regulator.

I just want to make the car be able to hold its own aginst the daily ricers. the cars exterior is completely stock and i plan to keep it that way for the most part besides going up in width for my wheels/tires. Anyways, any help would be appreciated. Pictures soon!

nvrdone

what brand mani are you using?

joe MAZDA

that unit you took off is not needed for performance only smog, did you remove the smog pump? if you left the place where the unit goes open then it wont idle. make/buy a block off plate & check for any vac leaks once your good on vac it should idle. I don't recomend high boost it's a high compression motor, maybe about 8-10psi max. I would just do a tII swap but you need harness & ecu.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like he removed the ACV and didn't put a block off plate over it. Wicked huge vacuum leak!!

Also, you can't remove the MAF and 'run the injectors off a pressure regulator'.

It would be wise to read up on Fuel Injection 101, and Turbocharging 102.

You are headed down the path of owning a parts car.

killalot13601

iTrader: (5)

THis isnt my first car that ive turbo'd, Ive turbo both high and low compresson. Saving the rest of the money I have all for tuning. The mani looks like a OBX quality mani, nothing special prolly just going to crack in a short time.


Thanks fo rthe info btw Im ganna go make a block off plate, then start welding up my perminent downpipe.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If the ACV is removed and the passages not blocked off, then there will be multiple large vacuum leaks.

Not sure what you mean about eliminating the AFM and running the injectors on the "pressure regulator". That makes no sense and is just not possible.

Now that the car is turbocharged, you'll need to upgrade the fuel system. You'll need a larger pump (FD unit, Walbro, etc.) and a set of larger injectors (4 x 550CC minimum, better to have larger secondaries). And something like an S-AFC to control them so the car does not run pig rich all the time. But that's the bare minimum and I can't give any specifics without knowing exactly what turbocharger you installed.

iceblue

This goes against all I know need pics to help.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/ro...ine/index.html


Good luck on the turbo project though.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

even if this isn't your first car, you still need to get a book and or do some more real research as to whats needed. you simply cannot take the MAF off of a car or any car for that matter.

killalot13601

iTrader: (5)

they said
"Quarter Mile time: 15.3 sec."

much of a lie since i ran a 14.2 with it stock besides the backseats taken out which dont weigh 1000 pounds to take a second off my Quarter. I do have a slip "somewares btw.


Secondly, ive seen multiple stand alone fuel systems to run on boost pressure.. I should get ahold of them cuz they might be able to explain it better so i dont look like a fool which its prolly to late lol.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

they run on 12 volts, not on air pressure.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Maximum Boost = Greatness.

Read this book and all will become clear. Although many on this forum would disagree w/ the author's views on alki/water injection, it will nonetheless give you the tools to complete this project....conceptually at least.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Something is being lost in the translation here. I think what you mean is that you are talking about standalones that use only a MAP sensor and no AFM. Generally this is EVERY major standalone on the market. This is referred to as "speed density", while a MAF/AFM based system is a "mass air" system.

The standalone requires a complete rewire of the engine, and appropriate tuning.