As far as I know, the engine internals are stock. I got a rebuilt engine from some place in Jacksonville, Fl, and they dont do porting on the engines they rebuilt. Theres a chance They got a ported core back from someone else, and I got that, but I doubt it. I will know for sure in a few months when I pull the engine apart to street port it.

 

nope. My mildly modded 88 RX-7 makes peak power at 7100rpm.

 

So far, from skimming, I didn't read of anyone being able to eliminate the rev limiter, but to whoever posted about wanting to raise it to 9100 rpm rather than eliminate it (mazdaspeed7?), just get a MSD-6AL when you upgrade your ignition. It cuts spark rather than fuel, which I think is a little easier on the engine, and is easily changed by puttin in chips... that way, if you lend your car out and you don't want em beating the **** out of it too much, just put in the ol' 5000 rpm pill. Thats my plan, if we figure out how to disable the rev limiter.
sean cathcart

 

OK, I cannot believe that if someone asks how to disable a buzzer. Everybody just get stock talking **** for two pages about dynos and does not answer anything. Just say how to eliminate the damn buzzer or start another thread!!!! I just spent a lot of time trying to find an answer to the topic and all I found in this two pages is nothing but ****!!!! No wonder nobody likes doing a search!!!!!!!!!

 

Absolutely. I didnt start this to hear 20 people to tell me IM wasting my time revving that high. How the hell would they know? They havent even seen my car. I want to know, so I could see exactly where my power peak is at, and what would be the best shift point for racing. It its below that, good, I learned something. If its above the stock rev limiter, its good to go past it, b/c the engine is still making good power.

 

The rev limiter is written into the ECU's firmware. It can't be changed without a rewritten chip or a new programmable ECU. You can't alter it the way you remove the boost cut with an FCD because all that's doing is sending a false boost signal to the ECU. You DO NOT want to send a false RPM signal! The Series 5 FSM says there's a fuel cut at 8600rpm (NA and Turbo).
But you would want dyno proof of power beyond there before you waste your time going higher. I keep hearing "it's still pulling", but that's just silly. The human brain is not a very good accelerometer, especially if you've just spent money on mods and are looking for gains! A chassis dyno is much better at telling you where your power peak is than your butt-dyno! Mazda put that redline there for a reason, so unless you have the right parts (seals, bearings, etc) you're probably just wearing everything out real quick.
There's your rev limiter answer. Now stop whining...

 

well heres the newbie question here, since i just picked up my FC 2 days ago, I understand the GLX makes peak power at 6500, so whats the best shift point. Also is it safe to take it past 7k?

 

Why do you want to do this?
Are you going carb?
Are you going insane porting?
Are you going strengthen internals?
Are you running underdriven pulleys?



-Ted

 

I want it I am biulding a 90 N/a bridge port, with underdrive pullys and turbo intake housings and manafold. I need to rev higher..

 

here is another related question. i have an 87 gxl and my engine will soon be an 86 block with TII center housing and big street port. full exhaust and intake and s5 intake manifold

what is it safe to rev my car too?? would it be the same as an S5 with SP??

Justin

 

Arent you forgetting about the S5 internals?

And Im not whining. I am just sick of people who dont know me, and have never been near my car telling me things about my car.

I would love to dyno it again, and get a good run this time. But since Im selling my car, I think its just a waste. I dont even really care anymore. I want something fast, and something that is not plagued with drivability problems. Im going boosted.

 

so wait, are you looking to eliminate the buzzer or the limiter? if it is the buzzer you want to get rid of i would try finding the actual buzzer itself (it must be behind the heads up display or something) and just cutting one of the two wires that connect to it.

but then again i know nothing about this subject, so get a second opinion first before you start cutting wires.

 

yeah i meant to say the S5 internals too..... oops

Justin