n/a rev limiter...how to disable?
 

I know upgraded chips like the MD race of G-force raise the redline, but Im looking for something simpler and cheaper. I remember hearing something about FCD's for TII's eliminate the rev limiter on n/a's. Is this true or not? Anything else I can do to raise it a it or eliminate it all together?

I'd like to know this too.

I would really like to know this too !! someone please post!


Plus with the mods i have listed in my sig.. how high past the limiter can i rev my car on a regular basis.. if at all...

we have a rev limiter? hmmm... never hit it... what rpm does it stop acceloration at?

There's a race shop in Florida that sells them, but they're not much cheaper than the MD Racing ECU and they only disable the fuel cut (no fuel or spark remapping).

If you don't have a balanced motor with pinned rotors and a full open exhaust, you shouldn't be spending a lot of time past the rev limiter anyway.

Mine doesnt have a rev limiter. It revs, it cuts and it keeps going

i have a 90 NA

is there anyway we can get an MD Race ECU? ive looked, but i cant find one anywhere.

Whats the highest you've ever taken your car? My rev limiter didnt kick in until 8800 rpm.

Im not talking about the physical aspects of the engine spinning that high. I know my engine is safe at 9K, as long as I dont do it all the time. And with my mods, it gets there very quick. All I really want to do is move it up a few hundred rpm, to say 9100 or so, but I dont think theres a cheap way I could move it, so elminating it would have to work. The reason I want to raise it a little is because my car was still pulling hard at the rev limiter.

the kid i bought my gxl off of disabled it... but i never asked him how.

If you've ever unintensionally hit the rev limiter, that's why it's there. Modifications permitting, the rotary will continually make more power all the way to the point where it blows up. Without a rev limiter, if you get slightly distracted in a race or miss a shift, you can kiss your engine good-bye.

The main reason I want this is because I want to know exactly how high my power peak is when I get on the dyno. Thats probably the only time I will rev past 8500 rpm. Even when im racing, I still always shift by 8500. Considering my mods, a couple of dyno pulls to 9K aren't going to mess anything up.

www.mdrace.com

You have to be very persistant in getting ahold of Mario since he doesn't do it full time and the other business he shares the shop with won't help you getting in touch with him at all. They might even tell you he doesn't do it anymore, but if you talk directly to Mario he'll do it. A friend of mine had one done as recently as August and he's all smiles about it.

If you do a search on MD Racing, you should find several other threads about it.

It like stops at 8700 or so, it kept going till 9100 at the dyno. Go to my 2nd dyno graph on my website. You can see they took it that high. IDIOTS!!

www.geocities.com/tmak13b/

I hardly ever take mine above 6500 rpms...I took it up to like 7800 yesterday, and that's the highest I've ever taken it. Oh well, how high can I take it? Just wondering...I have a stock ported n/a with straight pipes. I like the way it sounds.

I guess I am missing the point of disabling the rev limiter. On a NA it doesn't kick in until you are well over 1000 rpm past your redline.

Frankly, The buzzer at redline should be all that you ever need.

There's is no need to rev the engine above 8000 rpms if you still have a stock intake manifold and the stock AFM. Maybe with a ported intake manifold and a Mustang AFM (Mazdaspeed? or halltech) you'll see ANY POWER above 8000 rpm. Trust me on this one guys, I'VE NEVER SEEN A DYNO GRAPH FROM A NA MAKING POWER ABOVE 8000 rpms.....I'll be more than happy to be wrong on this one :)

KNO

I've know a couple people who've killed their buzzer due to excessive visits to redline :D.

You were halfway right about my mods. I do have the ported intake manifold. Dont have the Mustang MAF conversion finished yet, but its coming along. And youre right about most cars with stock intake manifolds not making power above 8K. My list of mods as much longer than the list of mods I dont have. Im getting to the point where I have so few options on what to do next, its not even a real choice.

I'm still waiting on your comments/succes with the Mustang AFM. My plan is to go with a Halltech, besides getting rid of the AFM, the timming can be adjusted @ different points (or so I understand), and of course the fuel maps. I know that sooner or later I'll be going Turbo...so the Halltech won't be a OVERKILL.

Hey man you should get your car dyno :) !!!

https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=36524


:D :D

street ported engines usually make sufficient power to 9000rpm, 8000 or so should be peak power and it wont stop till about 9k, so your safe to pull up to there, assuming you have an 89-91 tranny and parts so you dont blow anything up :) lol, 86-88 model tranny's will only take about 8500rpm until something goes kaboom :)

Not from the dyno graphs I've seen, as I said with the stock intake manifolds and the AFM......I don't think so!

hmm weird, i dont have any dyno sheets to prove it, but when i had my 86 that ran a 14.4 i would often shift about about 8200 and it would still be pulling pretty hard, but i wouldnt go over 8000 much, i usually just shifted at 7800.

i thought peak power was at 6500 rpms.. whether mod or not on n/a 7's...?unless u change the crankshaft and the rotation would be altered or different..?

Mazpeed7. Are you shure you don't have a ported engine? A stock port engine should pretty much be on the down side of the power curve after 7.5rpms. Only on my street port engine did the motor make power up to and a little beyond 9k. Just wondering- CJ