N/A power traction
N/A power traction
I have a question about traction on a 86 N/A. Its going through a whole rebuild so I am hoping for 160-170 rwhp and I was wondering what is a good size for decent traction.
I'm gonna get a LSD from a later 7 so that will help but the car its going in will be about 800-900lbs lighter.
Any suggestion on size? Im hoping that I can stay under a 245/40 17.
I'm gonna get a LSD from a later 7 so that will help but the car its going in will be about 800-900lbs lighter.
Any suggestion on size? Im hoping that I can stay under a 245/40 17.
Well, its not gonna be a 7 chassis. Its going on this but I need to build the frame first and that determines the width of the tire which determiens a whole list of other things!
Are N/A that crappy that they cant spin the tires? I dont think I have room for a turbo (the heat in that small engine bay could be crazy).
Are N/A that crappy that they cant spin the tires? I dont think I have room for a turbo (the heat in that small engine bay could be crazy).
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My goal wieght is about 1500lbs without my fat *** in it, then it will be about 1700.
Kinda the reason I dont need a turbo, 170hp in a 1500lbs car should be quick. Plus i'm building it for more solo2 racing than drag racing.
Kinda the reason I dont need a turbo, 170hp in a 1500lbs car should be quick. Plus i'm building it for more solo2 racing than drag racing.
In that very, very nice vehicle, a 170hp N/A would be enough motor for me. With a LSD and sticky tires I would think you could go a little smaller than 245's and not have any serious traction issues. Check on the tire sizes that come on the new Lotus and I think your already improving on that with a lot less weight. It'll be a terror.
Thanks guys!
That one there is a Dax Rush from the UK. http://www.daxcars.co.uk/
There is no way I could afford to buy one and ship it here, it would be in the high $20k for sure. As for a caterham, I wish I could afford one of those, they are pricey.
Mine will be hand built, should only take about 400 hours plus rebuilding of the engine. It depends on the body work considering I have to make all of it out of ali or fiberglass. And dont worry it will be safe, I use to build hot rods for a living so i'm not a n00b.
I should be able to get it on the road for under $10k which would be great considering it should do 0-60 in about 4 secs (I hope). It would really open the eyes of a 911 driver at a light
I will get a website up soon if anyone is interested.
That one there is a Dax Rush from the UK. http://www.daxcars.co.uk/
There is no way I could afford to buy one and ship it here, it would be in the high $20k for sure. As for a caterham, I wish I could afford one of those, they are pricey.
Mine will be hand built, should only take about 400 hours plus rebuilding of the engine. It depends on the body work considering I have to make all of it out of ali or fiberglass. And dont worry it will be safe, I use to build hot rods for a living so i'm not a n00b.
I should be able to get it on the road for under $10k which would be great considering it should do 0-60 in about 4 secs (I hope). It would really open the eyes of a 911 driver at a light
I will get a website up soon if anyone is interested.
Well, since you're doing the entire engine from the ground up, take a look at the "How to build a beefy NA" thread in the 2nd gen archives. If you do a bit of porting, some intake work, and a few other things, there are people putting down 200+ WHP on NAs. Not a lot, but there are plenty of people in the 170-190WHP range. You're using the S4 engine, which has a bit less potential than the S5 engine, but can still be made plenty fast.
Ignore the turbo-only weenies. There are a lot of NA people here, many by choice. Peak HP isn't everything.
You also might want to look into a lightweight flywheel while you're doing the engine. The stock flywheel is something close to 30lbs, and consumes a huge amount of energy in lower gears (which it sounds like you'll be spending a lot of time in). There are a number of lighter flywheels floating around. The lightest you can easily get is 9lbs, which turns the engine into an absolutely spastic rev-monster, but supposedly is tough to drive on the street (some people say it's impossible, others apparently do it on a regular basis). There are also a few in the 13-15lb range. Anything lighter than stock will be a great help in lower gears on autocross courses.
-=Russ=-
Ignore the turbo-only weenies. There are a lot of NA people here, many by choice. Peak HP isn't everything.
You also might want to look into a lightweight flywheel while you're doing the engine. The stock flywheel is something close to 30lbs, and consumes a huge amount of energy in lower gears (which it sounds like you'll be spending a lot of time in). There are a number of lighter flywheels floating around. The lightest you can easily get is 9lbs, which turns the engine into an absolutely spastic rev-monster, but supposedly is tough to drive on the street (some people say it's impossible, others apparently do it on a regular basis). There are also a few in the 13-15lb range. Anything lighter than stock will be a great help in lower gears on autocross courses.
-=Russ=-
i recomend the 4puck sprung Racing beat clutch...
i can light up my na's tires like no other now..
but.. my tires wont last nearly as long as before, since i chirp at EVERY start essentially, even in city driving... - its a little annoying, but once the clutch disc seats itself properly it is quite a nice experience..
i can light up my na's tires like no other now..
but.. my tires wont last nearly as long as before, since i chirp at EVERY start essentially, even in city driving... - its a little annoying, but once the clutch disc seats itself properly it is quite a nice experience..
I've also never had any problem spinning the tires in my N/A. It'll light em up with the best of them. Also never had any problems doing doughnuts. The n/a can definetly burn the tires. Have fun with it man.
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