So I'm looking to get some feedback on what you N/A guys are running as far as dyno tests, 1/4 mile, etc. Just so I can see where they average out and which mods were the most bang for the buck on the N/A. Reason being its stupid to dump tons of money on a N/A unless A) you know what you are doing and what you want B) you race your car and the class limits forced induction. So aside from the ghetto mods like the TB mod or wiring your ports open. What kinda mods have been so far on your N/A FC's and what kind of response did you get from it. This is more of a discussion to enlighten me on some actual results from such mods on N/A FC's. So feel free to explain what you've done and your results. (Also if any mods were a waste of money that is good info.)

 

I got the HKS intake and noticed an improvment in my high end power but not really any on the low end. As far as 1/4 mile and such I have no idea, all I know is that it helped. It would prolly help even more if I had new exhaust. I've also go RB springs and they are sweet for handling and apperence. Even with stock (read shitty) tires I can hang with my friends Miata in the twisties so i'm happy.

 

Yeah I noticed only high end difference when I went straight 2.5" exhaust and a cone filter. But it was very noticeable. Also engine response is much better especially with an aluminum flywheel.

 

Most n/a improvements will be seen with a header, streetport, intake, and SAFC.

As far as 1/4 mile times go, I ran a 14.61@97.3mph with the following mods:

87 base model, 5-lug swap
* Cold air intake, K&N filter
*ported intake manfold
*removed 5th/6th port actuators
*Flow ported 5th/6th ports (similar to Pineapple sleeves)
*streetport
*Pacesetter header (buy Racing Beat)
*straight through exhaust
*underdrive pulley
*ACT clutch
*emissionsless
*Minor weight reduction
*225/50/15 Yoko Es100 tires

Hope that helps.

 

Thats the kind of stuff I'm looking for. Also any real improvements with the pineapple sleeves and any half bridge N/A motor results? And heres what I already have done.

ACT prolite TII flywheel
Stock TII clutch
K&N cone filter
Bonez straight pipe with custom 2.5" single cat back
Accel 8mm wires

And here's whats in line.

Koyo Radiator
Greddy emanage
Street port (or half bridge?)
RB header

And I've cut the factory wieght of 2910lbs (GXL with automatic) down to 2740lbs. My goal is to put down 200rwhp and wiegh in at 2600lbs meanwhile staying very cost effective (under $1k) So we'll see what happens. Just there are a few mods I need actual results on.

 

NA and peformance dont belong in the same sentence.

 

The flow ported 5th/6th ports were at the same time as the streetport, so I cannot voice my opinion on that single modification. Visually, improvement is belivable, but you have to think about it "If it really makes any real improvement, why didn't Mazda do it from the factory?"

 

Day before yesterday i ported my upper intake manifold using a carbine bit and noticed a good increase in 3K and above.Im going to go ahead and port the lower intake when i get more time,but wow it made a big difference.

 

Please keep your ignorant comments out of this thread. It is obvious that forced induction is the way to go if you want to make power, but don't think a n/a RX-7 cannot be a real thrill to drive.

 

haha its true, NAs are very hard to make anything decently quick. I dont consider 14s exactly fast.

Here is my 2 cents... BIG ports, like as big as you can go, and revv the **** out of it. Only way, not very streetable, but will make some power.

 

See I've heard that street ports don't do a whole lot of good without some serious fuel and ignition upgrades. Yet I rode in an all stock '81 GS with a street ported 12A and that car was hella fast. Just debating if I should rip my motor out for a street port if I won't see more than 30hp.

 

Fuel and ignition upgrades are never needed on a street driven, streetported, n/a FC. In fact, with a fuel controller, you will be leaning out your mixture to make more power.

And you're right, 14s aren't really fast by any means, but he didn't ask if you thought highly modded N/as are cool or not. He wants info. He will then make a decision on what he wants to do.

If you want a 1/4 mile racer, buy a TII. Actually, if you want a 1/4 mile racer, go buy a 5.0L or a Z28. Thats where the real power/dollar ratio is at.

 

Looking for something thats predictable around corners and also I want it to be very simple. No turbo's, intercooler, boost controllers, bov, etc. Just a 6 port N/A motor with a decent amount of power and a 9k rpm redline. You know. To let people know you've got more motor. And also reliability is a must because it will be a daily driver and I can't afford to maintain a turbo. Also I'm kinda of a novice mechanic and can't afford to blow a $5k turbo motor. But I can afford to **** up on a $500 N/A motor.

 

What year n/a is this? 9k rpms is not a simple task to achieve. Most 6-port motors won't be making any power up there anyways. At those engine speeds, E-shaft flex, stationary gear abuse, and other factors can start to make themselves know.

As far as drivability, you can expect a crappy idle, LOUD exhaust, and other problems if you plan on modding it significantly.

 

my old setup i ran with my 87 N/A was a 13.97 @ 101mph on a stock port.. ill see if i can dig up a old time slip.. I had:

RB header with 2.5" strait pipe into a dyno max bullet
Jay-tech carby intake wiht 600 holley DP
T2 intermediate plate
S5 T2 rotorhousing
S4 N/A 6port end plates
S5 N/A internals
Holley blue pump and reg
Flex lite fan
All Efi stuff removed
inner bumpers remover(ones under bumper cover)
Cut out the crash bars in the doors, pull all the interior out beside dash and drive seat
Removed all the tar
12a dizzy wiht MSD 6AL
Accell 300+ wires
ran T2 spare tires(nice looking alum rim) up front
GXL rims out back with 26"x8-15 MT slicks
Alum hood
Manual doors
12a tranny
ran about 1/8 tank of 86 octane(premix)

Pretty much removed everything, and tried to still keep it street legal
go down to 2610lbs with me init.. hope this helps
Dave

 

Its an '89 (S5) with a 8k rpm redline already. I just want to know if I can bump the powerband up to 9k if I get a piggy back (emanage).

 

Making real power at 9k rpms has more to do with the port job and total airflow than the engine management, although both are important.

 

Ok so for sure I'm going to get a Greddy emanage and tweak the stock fuel system as much as I can. So it will be like $500 for the piggy back and all the harness's etc. And that should be as far as I'll go with that. And the actual porting will cost me $300. I can pull the motor myself but how much my friend will charge to take the motor apart and put back together I'm unsure of because there might be some things that need to be replaced. The motor is still strong and doesn't smoke or anything so rebuild will be minimal. But this guy does awesome street porting. His street ported FD runs high 9's with a GT42 turbo and is factory wieght with full interior. He's going to laugh at me for having him port my N/A but he won't argue with money. Plus me taking the motor out and putting it back in will shave cost. My exhaust will have to be cut and a new flange will have to be welded to accomodate a header. But my goal is to put down 200+rwhp on a street ported N/A. Think the fuel system can be left alone and a piggy back will be sufficient enough for these figures?

 

The 200+whp n/a goal is nothing new, plenty of us N/a guys have shot for it. Most of us end up losing interest, money, or the car at some point during the project. Also actually dynoing the car is another thing aswell.

The fuel system will be pefectly fine.

 

Or you can take that money and for about the same price do what i did(hint look at last post on page 1)
Dave

BTW: if you really want to go fast on a budget do what i am currently doing and buy a T2 or do a T2 swap.. learn from our mistakes bud...

 

Well from what I've seen the stock S5's put down anywhere around 135-140rwhp. So I'm pretty optimistic that all these mods will get me at least 60 more hp to the wheels. I'll dyno of course and once I've got a smooth reliable motor with 200rwhp I'll start cutting wieght down so that I can 2500lb car with 200rwhp. And be very cost effective at the same time. I have faith my friend will do an awesome porting job and tuning. He's going to think I'm crazy but I this is what I want. Personally I don't think I can handle a high powered car at the moment nor do I have the mechanical expertise to maintain one.

 

Maintaining a highly-moddified can be just as hard as maintaining a moddified TII.

 

See I don't want the fastest possible. Also my GXL has beautiful black leather interior and the compliments never get old. I want my car to remain nice and be a daily driver. I'm aware of the enormous potential of a TII swap but the cost is way out of my budget. It will cost $3k at least to put a nice TII motor in along with all the fixins. Meanwhile I can street port and add a few goodies to my N/A for $1k (give or take) and have an engine I can also afford to maintain. Not to mention I rarely ever race anybody. Its mainly for entertainment purposes.

 

Agreed

So far into my N/A turbo transistion(using N/A short block) i am $800 and all i still need to buy(most my parts are in transit cuz i purchased them today) are a turbo manifold, intercooler, some guages, bov, exhaust and some kind of good clutch.. so i am looking at what.. $1500 all said and done with a car in street trim..
Dave

 

Would a street port and a fuel controller qualify as highly modded? Because that and a header are all I plan on doing.