yes, and no.. as long as you maintain your car it should be fine.. but everything you do has its down falls on reliability.. Plus you are talking about spending $1k.. A decent rebuild "KIT" cost close to that..
Dave

 

Well the motr itself has about 30K on the previous rebuild and the only things that will be replaced are maybe the side seals or anything else showing wear. The actual porting will only run me $250-$300.

 

if it only has 30k i wouldnt tear it apart IMO.. Just do all the basic mods, RB header, 2.5" single exhaust, e-fan, ditch the emissions, rasts nest, bac valve ect.. port you intake mani, do the TB mod, pull your 5/6port sleeves out.. youll be surprised what you can do with a stock port.. look what i did.. and that cost me about $1500(ebay is a wonderful thing) the only reason i ran that motor with all the T2 housings and plate was b/c i bought it off of a forum member for $300 about 2yrs ago.. i am a firm believer that you can reach youll goal on a stock port.. just have to put your money in the right places and do your home work..
Dave

P.S. is you go 5spd 12a tranny has a tighter gear pattern init.. just my $.02

 

Yeah I realize how sweet the 12A trannys are but the problem is that I have a TII transmission bolted up along with an ACT prolite flywheel. So I don't feel like spending extra cash on a new flywheel etc. My '81 GSL had a GSL-SE tranny in it and that thing launched like a bat out of hell. I had a E36 M3 beat all the way up to the 1/8th mile until he finally caught me and left me behind. Why would it be un wise to pull apart a good motor?

 

Think about that last statement....

 

Will I compromise the seals and everything? And of course I'll have to pull it apart to port it. Thats why I asked.

 

you very possibly could.. But i dont see why would pull apart a perfectly good running motor.. I could see if it had low compression or you blew it up.. But if i were you i would keep it as is, and just put the $$ into something else for the moment..
Dave

P.S. just curious.. are you running a T2 rear diff or an auto drive shaft?

 

I'll throw in my two cents:

'86 Sport, 15.5@91mph
-Cheap cone intake
-TB mod, wired aux ports (don't ask)
-Bonez race pipe
-Corksport exhaust
-minor weight redux

That was on a hot, humid Florida day, while I had transmission problems (wouldn't shift to 3rd worth a damn) and traction issues. The car easily keeps up with stock-ish TII's, soo...

 

You will definetly need a soft seal kit and possibly more. Don't assume just because your engine only has 30K on it you will be fine. Your best bet is to stick with your current engine and get a stand alone EMS and a complete exhaust. Spend a little money for some proper chassis dyno tuning and you will be so much closer to what you want.

The weight reduction mods will help also and they cost so much less than making an engine more powerful.

 

Sounds like you're on the right track. Porting, an SAFC (or emanage), intake, exhaust, and major weight reduction are your best bang for your buck. If I were you, I would also convert to a manual trans in order to put more of that power to the ground.

Here is a great thread by Icemark explaining what he did to make 200+ fwhp:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=extrude+hone

 

Just keep in mind you might be opening a can of worms. I have about 3 years on a mazda reman engine, and as soon as I finish rebuilding the engine on my AE, I am going to either rebuild this engine or do a NA 20B swap or something. However, I am not going to do it without the funds set aside for rotor housings, a seal kit( mandatory IMO), and other assorted goodies. If you get in there and the housings need replaced, there's almost $1000. You just need to make sure you're prepared, or you might get burned.

FYI, buying two new housings, all rotor seals, and all gaskets and o-rings and all is setting me back about $2000. What I am getting by doing this, however, is an engine that is going to make compression as good or better than when it was first put together. If you don't do it this way, you'll never reach the compression of a new engine. It helps I am dong my iwn porting.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/

https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=128

https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=128

All good links.

 

$210 AUS ~$160.85 US (plus shipping)

$410.63 +$100 for air horns

~$140 for megasquirt fuel injection controller

Total, $850, round to $1,000 for odds n ends, you've got quite an upgrade. Buy a used header for under $200, a magnaflow canister muffler for under $100, have an exhaust shop fab up the rest. Then worry about ripping the motor apart.

 

I'd rather get a custom intake manifold than spend 1000 bux on that, i know a guy kahren that makes them

 

LOL my base model stock is 1980 lbs. Pulled power steering, AC, and spare tire. WHERE DOES THAT EXTRA 700 LBS ON A GXL COME FROM?!?!?! That's rediculous!

 

 

Aftermarket or custom intake manifold is important for the n/a engine,
i know of a racecar fc with a very very big street port more of a monster , but pushed a top of 218whp on the dyno,, following ruled the n/a intake manifold has to be retained,,

a custom manifold would yeild a lot more power

 

damn! you pulled that off dave?^^^

 

haha, its funny because when I was looking at my vin the other day on the inside of the door, it said 1900 some odd pounds on there somewhere. I think tho, after thinking about it, it meant maximum weight allowed??!?

 

my 90 GX is 1100kg without those ammenities (half a tank). S5's are heavier but i think you would have needed to pull more than just p/s, a/c and the spare to achieve that weight.

i also don't have a stereo.

 

Not even the First gens weigh that much stock. You sir are a liar.

 

Base weighs in at 2600 with no ps/ac or spare tire (i've had it weighed on a 4 point scale).

 

Lies

 

Yup!! I have a timeslip somewhere... Just havent had time to dig for it..
Dave

 

i think he thoguh that noman17 was referring to someone else?