At my wits end...
A wire will suffice. It's a yellow two wire plug hidden within a rubber boot located along the same harness which feeds the Boost/Pressure sensor and Variable resistor.
i did it i hear my fuel pump turn on, but still wont start. heres a video of it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JSqbXUsohE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JSqbXUsohE
If you disconnected the fuel hose that leads from the pump to the filter and dead headed the line the gauge would read about 80 psi w/key to start. If the gauge was teed in between the filter and the engine and it shoud read 30 psi w/key to start.
ok thanks. I actually just got it to start for a few mins then it died. randomly. Its idling at 1k on cold idle so it think i need to turn it up a bit. But it died out so i messed with the cranking fuel. The higher it went the more it wanted to start. I maxed it out at 160 ms and it still seemed liek it needed more. So i did that wire bridge on the fuel pump i was told to do. I hear fuel pouring into the engine and this time it almost started put it seemed like ti wanted more. All i could smell out my exhaust was gas straight gas. I doubt thats normal
i'll say this as bluntly as i possibly can in my assistance even though no one likes bad news.
the motor has to come back apart. that is why your friends ditched you, the one who built the engine i'm sure realizes this.
this sounds EXACTLY like a motor i built for a customer who had a bolt go through the motor and pierce the rotor. that is an unnatural amount of oil coming through the exhaust, unless your builder is a penny pinching mother ****** who tried to re-use the old OEM seals... something is so wrong here that all i can suggest is what i initially thought which is you need to start over. unfortunately it happens when you try to get a job done cheap, you get what you pay for.
at least to his defense, anyone could have accidentally dropped something down the intake while putting the car together. in my case we had 4 people helping put the motor in on my example(3 of them being friends of the customer), i got rather upset that i was turned to the bad guy though since people like a scapegoat, i still busted my *** to re-rebuild it for next to nothing in less than desirable working conditions half a days drive from home.
the engine just doesn't sound healthy to me during cranking, nor does the amount of oil coming out of it be a good sign.
the motor has to come back apart. that is why your friends ditched you, the one who built the engine i'm sure realizes this.
this sounds EXACTLY like a motor i built for a customer who had a bolt go through the motor and pierce the rotor. that is an unnatural amount of oil coming through the exhaust, unless your builder is a penny pinching mother ****** who tried to re-use the old OEM seals... something is so wrong here that all i can suggest is what i initially thought which is you need to start over. unfortunately it happens when you try to get a job done cheap, you get what you pay for.

at least to his defense, anyone could have accidentally dropped something down the intake while putting the car together. in my case we had 4 people helping put the motor in on my example(3 of them being friends of the customer), i got rather upset that i was turned to the bad guy though since people like a scapegoat, i still busted my *** to re-rebuild it for next to nothing in less than desirable working conditions half a days drive from home.
the engine just doesn't sound healthy to me during cranking, nor does the amount of oil coming out of it be a good sign.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Dec 10, 2010 at 10:52 PM.
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seanman
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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Oct 23, 2002 08:55 AM



