Well I'm still having issues with my car. Finally adjusted my Cranking fuel so my car starts. BUT if it stalls or i shut it off after tis on it wont start or will just about start, so more tuning i need to do. But now the engine vibrates hard. Only leaks oil when the car is on. I did a test i filled it up with oil check it in a week still same level. So I'm going to check it 2morrow if its down then i know for a fact it isnt a slow leak. As you can see in the vid and pics i have issues. When i put the car in first it bogs. Thats all i can really think of. My timing is still off but i had to time it at 2k rpm since thats the lowest i can get it now. The TPS screw is basically off. i turned it left and its still off by 5-6% but it was dead on 20% last time i started it. Thats all i can think of you can see more in the vids and pics. Also I'm going to post my first start up vid and you can hear a difference in exhaust sounds. Also i wish to add in the exhaust theres a oil/gas/Vaseline mix. My buddy who rebuilt engine put Vaseline inside of it. I'm not sure if that would casue issues.


Heres the first start up vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGzmQ6iv7-U

And video now:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwsmYQtXsCs

and video of it being retarded:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hicLxJJJdP0


Heres a pic of what my CAS has to be turned to:


By zoneman2 at 2010-11-20

Heres a pic of the position of the timing mark when I do the timing when its on ( mind you if i turn the CAS left the timing notch moves farther away to the left):


By zoneman2 at 2010-11-20

Heres what happens to my house after i let my car run:


By zoneman2 at 2010-11-20

And the inside of my exhaust:


By zoneman2 at 2010-11-20

 

any ideas on this? I'm worried about the heavy vibrations from engine

 

make sure the cas is lined up right, it seems to me that the car is very off on timing.

 

Some engine builders use vaseline to hold certain seals in place during assembly. It is common for a freshly rebuilt engine to smoke. How much smoke depends on how much engine assembly lube is used, more lube + more smoke. So i wouldnt worry to much about the vaseline.

As for the oil and gas in the exhaust, and poor running, I would say timing is off. Dubble check marks, and do your best to fiddle with it and I couldnt tell, poor sound quality, but did I hear and exhaust leak?

 

Timing. Re-stab the CAS. Look for a thread about how to do the timing. You probably actually have the CAS on the wrong gear notch. Then try to align the marks. Hope this helps you.

 

ive looked on threads. The 2 marks near the gear of the CAS are right. When i open case the 2 edges are just touching the black thing on the left. I had the timing mark lined up right on the pulley. But when i did the timing how it was lined up not touching it it looked like timing was off by a 75 degree angle. Could it be off internally? Also i have to do it at 1.8k rpms since my idle will not go any lower. Ive messed with BAC screw, TPS and Fast adjust screw ( i think thats what its called). Now for the pic that says "Heres a pic of the position of the timing mark when I do the timing when its on" if any one was confuse, that position is what i see when i have the timing light on while car is running.

@Krazy- how about on rotors and stuff? My buddy "told by a teacher at school" that worked on Rx7 for years that Vaseline screws with the seating of the apex seals and they wont seal right. I figured I'd ask you guys on here see what you think, but seems to me like your saying its fine. And yes i have a HUGE exhaust leak at the Turbo/DP connection. I actually have leaks all the way down. I reused seals that had maybe less then 600k miles on them. I was iffy on it but they looked fine no warpage still firm. Now you think because the timings off that oil&gas isnt getting ignited and just getting pushed threw the exhaust?

 

s soon as it fires once that vasoline is completely null on apex seals. its there to hold them there while ur assembling the engine. and 600k? uhh i would hope u mean 60k and even then i would be iffy about using those. a seal kit is pretty cheap.

 

opps i ment 600 miles!! brain fart sorry

 

i did a compression test while the engine was warm.

I got

T1: 80ish free bounce. 80 compression

T2: 89 free bounce. 89 compression

L1: 90 free bounce. 90 compression
L2: 90 free bounce. 90 compression

so im worried about the 1 that read 80ish. My buddy said on free bounce it did to low bounces then the high. So blow apex seal maybe?

Also very odd when i pull up on my gas petal the idle drops down to 1400 and the tsp is at 20%. Also still does the bogging when i put it in any gear.

 

the motor still fresh right? and im guessing you reused the housing right? that will give you low numbers till the motor is broken in if i remember right.

 

yes its still fresh. Reused the housing and irons, had to replace front rotor and e-shaft as they melted 2gether. Well that eased my mind a bit.


Also i think its burning coolant. I keep on having ti fill it. But also my coolant cap is lose so im going to replace and see what happens

 

The vibrations indicate the engine is firing off balance. As in all 6 compression faces are not even.

Can you remove the spark plugs, put the video camera by the plug holes and crank the engine. I would check for an even compression sound as you crank the engine. Any irregular pattern would indicate a problem with the seals. I expect it will sound like WHOOSH WHOOSH WHOOSH woosh woosh WOOSH

I watched the videos and the vibrations seem to me like they are caused by a stuck apex seal. The engine isn't running on all 6 rotor faces. It sounds like 4/6 are making good compression. I would remove the exhaust manifold and use a flashlight and mirror to visually inspect the apex seals through the exhaust ports. I would rotate the engine and use a finger to press on each apex seal and make sure it moves smoothly in the apex seal groove.

 

ya i believe thats what it sounded like. Damn i hate removing the turbo on my car its such a pain. but ill have to check it friday when im off.


I forgot to add that when i turn the engine on the alternator bolt it now ( and never did it b4) it will stop at the timing notch and the alternator pulley just free spins and the engine's pulley wont spin right on left. it does that when i hit that spot. idk if any of that made sense.

 

I would remove the radiator shroud and fan and use a socket and ratchet on the e-shaft pulley hub bolt to spin the engine with the plugs out. There shouldn't be any tight spots. If there are then the engine needs to be taken apart and inspected because something isn't right. Sometimes you have to take a step back to move forward. :/

 

i hope not. casue then my buddy will be getting a call to take my car so he can pull the engine apart

 

that timing is super off.

 

Some people say Vaseline is bad, in both piston and rotary engines, others say it is fine. I have never used the stuff befor, but it is a very common thing to see in rotarys or pistion engine's. Yes, I think the poor timing is spaying all manner of nasty out your exhaust. +1 for the restab. And like I said every rebuilt engine is going to smoke on the first start up, and may continue to smoke for 10/100/1000 miles. Some never stop lol. All depends on how close to spec the parts are, how much assembly lube is used, and how well the rebuild was performed(some poeple suck at it!). Fix the exhaust leaks, depending on how many, and where they are it can make a turbo car act funny. Replace the coolant cap, you wouldnt belive how much damage such a little cap can cause, overheating (on pistions bown head gaskets. coolant seals on a rotary). and they cost like what $10-15 bucks? did you bleed out all the air from the coolant system?

 

i havent really i dont think bleed the coolant system. I filled it squeezed the hoses for air bubbles but thats it really. Not sure on what esle to do for that. I did restab the CAS and its still off. Man putting the exhaust on my car was a pain in the ***, but it has to be done.

 

when the engine was rebuilt, do you know if they used fresh oil ring seals? if they didnt, then you know where the oil is coming from. if they did, then i would start by checking the oil injectors to see if they are failing on you. as for the cas being out of time, heres what to do:

1. take out the cas
2. line up the yellow timing mark on the pulley with the timing peg on the oil pump cover
3. take the black cover off of the cas
4. now, line up the dot with the linear marker at the gear end of the cas
5. note the position of the fins inside the cas where you took off the black cover and mark where it sits at
6. install the cas back into the oil pump cover and make sure that the marks do not move.( 1/8" to 1/4" is fine as long as it doesnt spin alot when inserting it)
7. put everything back together, tighten, and start the car
8. recheck the timing and see if this doesnt help you

ive done this lots

 

ya i did that but still its off. Tho i didnt let it free spin a lil bit. but when i did before it moved like 1/5 of the way for spinning

 

I though you were supposed to remove the front housing plugs and line up an apex seal between the two spark plug holes before you lined up the yellow mark on the pulley and the marks on the CAS?

 

that doesnt matter. the apex seals are stationary as well as the timing marks. no matter what you try to do, they stay in the same place.

there is only one top dead center. this is where the pulley needs to be before trying to do anything else with the timing issues

 

i totally for got to add that my 2 spark plugs T and L near the fire wall looked brand new. any ideas on that? could it b timing issue or coil packs or neither

 

sounds like a dead rotor, i just ran into a similar issue where a bolt went through a customer's brand new rebuild and pierced the rotor, oil was blowing out the exhaust at an amazing rate.

do the compression test again.

ignore the timing, that isn't your issue. even if the timing was so far off that the engine would barely idle it still wouldn't give that signature sound of a stuck/damaged seal.

if the compression truly is fine then you have a dead primary rear rotor injector. even with a dead injector though, that is too much oil blowby in the exhaust for new oil seals. it may clear up once you fix the issue but it seems like either a seal was cut during installation or the builder used old OEM used oil seals(they do not seal after running the engine so they cannot be reused if the engine had been run on them even once).

 

sounds to me like it is the cas. switch it out. if you are only sparking on the front rotor, then the cas is only working half ***. change it.