is my turbo blown?
10-21-10, 11:57 AM
#1
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is my turbo blown?
Hey i think my turbo is blown. It pours whiteish smoke from exhaust(it looks like a smoke screen). It has no power. I did 0-30 in like 9 secs with it floored. There oil all in the exhaust. Ive only started it like 5 times and drove it .01 miles and its down 2.5 qts of oil. so my guess is its gone.
10-21-10, 02:54 PM
#5
Uh, that sounds a lot worse than just a turbo. 0-30mph in 9 sec; way slower than a regular NA. Unless it's completely frozen in place (which I've never seen), and spewing oil into the exhaust, this sounds a lot more like an oil seal on the engine & really bad compression.
Does it smoke heavily immediately on a cold start, or does it take a little bit before smoking? If its immediate, its definitely the engine; the exhaust wouldn't heat up quickly enough to produce tons of oil smoke from cold
Does it smoke heavily immediately on a cold start, or does it take a little bit before smoking? If its immediate, its definitely the engine; the exhaust wouldn't heat up quickly enough to produce tons of oil smoke from cold
10-21-10, 03:48 PM
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Uh, that sounds a lot worse than just a turbo. 0-30mph in 9 sec; way slower than a regular NA. Unless it's completely frozen in place (which I've never seen), and spewing oil into the exhaust, this sounds a lot more like an oil seal on the engine & really bad compression.
Does it smoke heavily immediately on a cold start, or does it take a little bit before smoking? If its immediate, its definitely the engine; the exhaust wouldn't heat up quickly enough to produce tons of oil smoke from cold
Does it smoke heavily immediately on a cold start, or does it take a little bit before smoking? If its immediate, its definitely the engine; the exhaust wouldn't heat up quickly enough to produce tons of oil smoke from cold
i believe its instant smoke. if its an oil seal on the engine, what would cause it to go? would taking the Eccentric shaft pulley bolt out do that? or would it be from a faulty rebuild? I 4got to mention tis a fresh rebuild only .01 miles on it
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10-21-10, 06:02 PM
#9
who rebuilt the engine? Sounds like somebody messed up putting in the oil control rings to me, either that or the oil seals on your turbo are non-existing compounded with timing being way mega ultra way mega off maybe no spark on the rear rotor? Just trying to rationalize the 0-30 in 9 seconds thing...
10-21-10, 06:06 PM
#10
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well idk if 0-30 in 9 secs is 100% right. But it had no pep to what it had b4. I know the timing is off by alot. I'm guessing its turbo seals. Where would i buy them? its a stock Hitachi turbo. Are they hard to change?
10-21-10, 07:59 PM
#11
Ok, so basically the engine's JUST been rebuilt? This is the first time trying to start it? Yea, it'll smoke, because during a rebuild, you use something called fogging oil to basically cover everything that could begin to rust with oil to prevent it. The car will smoke for a while just burning all of this off... anywhere from 10 min to a half hour depending on the type, and how you're running it. You just need to wait for it to burn off. I don't know why acceleration is so slow unless something else may be wrong; it'd be best if you just went and re-checked everything that you did in reassembly. Make sure the plugs for the secondary injectors are actually on the secondaries and not the primaries, make sure you didn't leave a bunched up paper towel in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in, that the oil injectors are hooked up, all the vacuum lines etc. A compression test also would be helpful.
10-21-10, 08:39 PM
#12
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well theres no paper towels, we did like 4 once overs on the car by we started it. I wrote on the injectors and on the wires what conencts to the injectors. as for vac lines, wheres where it got iffy. im not 100% sure on if we hooked that up right. Now what u mean oil injectors? u mean the housing nozzles? how would i do a compression test in full detail. i have the tool
11-08-10, 09:47 PM
#13
im having the same problem except that i cant even accelerate to 30 mph!!!i didn't want to go WOT because i just got it rebuilt,(s4 10th ae, turbo, street port) too much oil burning as well it killed a quart of oil in just 3 start ups... after it warmed up it just started jerking and wanting to stall untill it got to 10mph and i tried accelerating and nothing i had to go half throttle to see any pick up....and even then it would stutter and not speed up i was able to get it up to 20 mph in over 10 seconds. i just got it rebuilt and installed it on Saturday... im really bummed out, there's oil seeping from the flanges on the turbo to down pipe, down pipe to cat, and , a little bit on the cat to rear y pipe...there is also a mist of oil that seeped from the turbo to downpipe flange on the firewall. the turbo was fine before the install. I really hope its the turbine, i really don't want to pull the engine out yet again!!!! again i just got it rebuilt and on this video this would be the third time starting it cold, and the smoke was instant....there was also coolant on the transmission on the bottom, where the lid bolts are i could see drips accumulating on the drivers side of the trans any ideas im kinda worried because i just spend money to build this thing.... any ideas of help would be appreciated guys.... heres the vid:
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11-08-10, 11:27 PM
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ya almost same issue, except mine starts smoking after like 5-6 mins of running and my car will move but does like 0-40 in like 6 secs. let me know what you find out. I gave up for now since ive started school and have little time to fiddle
11-09-10, 01:23 AM
#16
im no expert but heres what i think for the both of you:
i just did a recent rebuild as well. i think mine might of smoked just as much if not more. one thing you can do is pull the spark plugs off and see how they look, if they look live they've had some contact with oil then the smoke might be engine related and not turbo. are you guys using turbo's that youve used before and know they work? if so then it might not be the turbo. i also thot my turbo was bad but i just let it idle for over and hour and then started to see less smoke. key word "less" not completely gone. i ran it straight pipe for a whole and started to see puddles of oil coming out the exhaust. something ales you should think about is what was replaced when the engine was rebuilt? if there used parts they have more of a reason to smoke sens its going to take longer for then to brake in. i reused my irons and metal oil control rings, i think thats why it was so bad for me. all it takes is a small gap between the irons and rotors for it to smoke. like i said my suggestion would be to let it idle. i went down about half a quart.
hes a vid. youll see about half the smoke sens its dual exhaust, (second start)
http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=IMAG4636.mp4
i just did a recent rebuild as well. i think mine might of smoked just as much if not more. one thing you can do is pull the spark plugs off and see how they look, if they look live they've had some contact with oil then the smoke might be engine related and not turbo. are you guys using turbo's that youve used before and know they work? if so then it might not be the turbo. i also thot my turbo was bad but i just let it idle for over and hour and then started to see less smoke. key word "less" not completely gone. i ran it straight pipe for a whole and started to see puddles of oil coming out the exhaust. something ales you should think about is what was replaced when the engine was rebuilt? if there used parts they have more of a reason to smoke sens its going to take longer for then to brake in. i reused my irons and metal oil control rings, i think thats why it was so bad for me. all it takes is a small gap between the irons and rotors for it to smoke. like i said my suggestion would be to let it idle. i went down about half a quart.
hes a vid. youll see about half the smoke sens its dual exhaust, (second start)
http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=IMAG4636.mp4
11-09-10, 01:24 AM
#17
11-09-10, 12:45 PM
#18
If it's the turbo you may have endplay in the shaft (in-and-out play). The wheel may also be touching the housing as it spins up. Also check for oil coming out of the compressor housing. Blown turbos also tend to smoke pretty bad at idle once everything has warmed up enough.
11-10-10, 12:33 AM
#19
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This is what mine looked like when I blew the turbo.
What I finally found out after 2 blown turbos was that my vacuum routing made no sense.
According to how the FSM shows it and how the car came, there is a vacuum hose from the big nipple on the center iron(crankcase) that goes to the PCV then 2 smaller vacuum lines that go behind the TB to the UIM.
Then the nipple on the oil filler goes the TID and the cannistor.
Don't know about you guys but this made no sense to me and oil kept pooling in the compressor housing and blowing my turbos.
What I did was switch the hose around. I got rid of the PCV, i think it's ****, from the center iron nipple(crankcase) I ran a T with one line to the cannistor and the other to a catch can.
From the oil filler neck I ran that line to the TB.
Since then I have had no problems.
The reason for this is because I believed my problem was air pressure was building up in the oil pan and the oil from the turbo was not flowing freely back into the pan.
So once I put a vacuum source on the oil pan I had no problems.
The vacuum diagram you see is what I used. This diagram is not the same as the FSM to me.
So this is what worked for me and I have been redlining for 2 months now and no issues.
What I finally found out after 2 blown turbos was that my vacuum routing made no sense.
According to how the FSM shows it and how the car came, there is a vacuum hose from the big nipple on the center iron(crankcase) that goes to the PCV then 2 smaller vacuum lines that go behind the TB to the UIM.
Then the nipple on the oil filler goes the TID and the cannistor.
Don't know about you guys but this made no sense to me and oil kept pooling in the compressor housing and blowing my turbos.
What I did was switch the hose around. I got rid of the PCV, i think it's ****, from the center iron nipple(crankcase) I ran a T with one line to the cannistor and the other to a catch can.
From the oil filler neck I ran that line to the TB.
Since then I have had no problems.
The reason for this is because I believed my problem was air pressure was building up in the oil pan and the oil from the turbo was not flowing freely back into the pan.
So once I put a vacuum source on the oil pan I had no problems.
The vacuum diagram you see is what I used. This diagram is not the same as the FSM to me.
So this is what worked for me and I have been redlining for 2 months now and no issues.
11-10-10, 03:35 PM
#20
i changed my oil from 10w 30 to 20w 50 with stp oil treatment, because i was told to by my re builder to see if the thinker oil would seat the oil control rings but the smoke was much worse, a whole lot worse.... plus the smoke would reek of surfer and the smoke was wayyy too intense after idling the car for it to warm up i had blow soo much smoke my neighbors were all huddled outside to see what the problem was... so i decided to shut her off. after shut of it took like 20 mins for the smoke to clear inside and outside the car.. after that i noticed far too much oil on the floor at the very least like 3/4 of a quart on the floor right underneath the block....again burnt oil... and a watery consistancy
11-13-10, 01:30 PM
#21
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ok i did a compression test, but my engine was cold. I'll do a warm test 2morrow and see if #'s change but this is what i got.
T1:
Test 1- 30/60/90
Test 2- 20/60/ 90
T2:
Test 1- 15/60/90
Test 2- 45/60/90
L1:
Test 1- 40/60/90
Test 2- 35/60/90 <--------------I was told it Jittery on Test 1 & 2
L2:
Test 1- 30/60/90
Test 2- 35/60/90
Also i wish to add I had Vaseline all over L2 spark plug. I have ngk and the JAPAN letter had i Vaseline on that section also.
Also T1 & L1 Both were black and reeked of gas but T2 & L2 had nothing on them except what i wrote before. So idk if that help any
For got to add that i did the compression test like it says in the Haynes Manual. 4 all of you who dont know what it says, It says take 2 spark plugs off like T1 T2. Attach compression tester in T1 or T2 then crank ( i skipped a few steps). Also I held the gas petal to the floor since it said keep throttle wide open.
T1:
Test 1- 30/60/90
Test 2- 20/60/ 90
T2:
Test 1- 15/60/90
Test 2- 45/60/90
L1:
Test 1- 40/60/90
Test 2- 35/60/90 <--------------I was told it Jittery on Test 1 & 2
L2:
Test 1- 30/60/90
Test 2- 35/60/90
Also i wish to add I had Vaseline all over L2 spark plug. I have ngk and the JAPAN letter had i Vaseline on that section also.
Also T1 & L1 Both were black and reeked of gas but T2 & L2 had nothing on them except what i wrote before. So idk if that help any
For got to add that i did the compression test like it says in the Haynes Manual. 4 all of you who dont know what it says, It says take 2 spark plugs off like T1 T2. Attach compression tester in T1 or T2 then crank ( i skipped a few steps). Also I held the gas petal to the floor since it said keep throttle wide open.
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