My TII not starting? HELP! =( its my DD.
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My TII not starting? HELP! =( its my DD.
So the other day i went to leave work and i turned to key to nothing but a little beep noise (i turn the key and it kind of goes brrreepp, its like a half second long low to high pitch beep). Therefore no turning e-shaft or rotors. Nothing at all so im like uh oh my battery is dead, im from Minnesota its been cold and i noticed my battery getting weak. So i get her jumped and she fires right up like nothing.
Next day i get a new battery put it in the car and still nothing at all? Thought maybe everything was dead cuz it was so cold so i threw a charger on it, nothing, tried to jump it, nothing?
I looked over all my battery wires, terminals, alternator wires, fuses. So now im stumped. Im thinking its my ignition switch its self just went because i have had to crank her quite a bit trying to de-flood. You know the infamous S4 flooding issues. Maybe the really really cold weather mixed with a bunch of turning of the key, led to a bad switch?
Any input would be very very much appreciated. I was looking at my ignition switch earlier today and it has like 6 wires on the back of it that all appear to be connected properly, but i dont know what they all do? Anyone have a link for a wiring diagram?
Again, thanks for any input ahead of time.
Joe
(The car is an s4 TII)
Next day i get a new battery put it in the car and still nothing at all? Thought maybe everything was dead cuz it was so cold so i threw a charger on it, nothing, tried to jump it, nothing?
I looked over all my battery wires, terminals, alternator wires, fuses. So now im stumped. Im thinking its my ignition switch its self just went because i have had to crank her quite a bit trying to de-flood. You know the infamous S4 flooding issues. Maybe the really really cold weather mixed with a bunch of turning of the key, led to a bad switch?
Any input would be very very much appreciated. I was looking at my ignition switch earlier today and it has like 6 wires on the back of it that all appear to be connected properly, but i dont know what they all do? Anyone have a link for a wiring diagram?
Again, thanks for any input ahead of time.
Joe
(The car is an s4 TII)
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Im sorry if this is a dumb question. Just to be honest though i have no clue what the spade terminal is. i know my car is getting power because the door lights and dome light still come on. Also i can still turn on my headlights and what not. its just turning the key does nothing. =/
sorry i don't know what that is.
sorry i don't know what that is.
#5
oi oi oi
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If you dont have a voltmeter and dont want to take car to someone you can try this. Unplug small wire and jump terminal to starter battery cable. Do not touch starter body while doing this! If it now cranks its before starter. set parking brake and leave in neutral, dont run yourself over. And did you hook battery up correctly. If not theres alot more issues to deal with.
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#9
Disco Biscuit
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My suggestion would be to listen to Satch and follow his suggetions. He's the wiring guru on here, I believe that he has the FSM memorized.
Confirm that the ground wire that connects the slave cylinder mounting bolt to the firewall is not faulty. You can easily access that one as it's on top of the trans right behind the engine, look from the driverside of the car. It looks like a black plastic box that one of the slave bolts goes through.
Confirm that the ground wire that connects the slave cylinder mounting bolt to the firewall is not faulty. You can easily access that one as it's on top of the trans right behind the engine, look from the driverside of the car. It looks like a black plastic box that one of the slave bolts goes through.
#10
Top Down, Boost Up
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You really need a voltmeter to make checking easier. Get the car started (jump if needed), put one lead on the negative battery terminal, and put the other on the B-post of the alternator. Ideally, this should be about 14v. If it's below about 13v, the battery will not charge while the engine in running. If it never charges, you'll eventually drain it. This can lead to a no-start condition, or even cause the engine to stop running if there isn't enough power for the ignition system / ECU.
You can also test the alternator's voltage regulator directly with this test in the FSM:
You can also test the alternator's voltage regulator directly with this test in the FSM:
#11
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It likely means the ignition switch is powerless as it should have constant voltage on the solid Black wire 24/7. At the ignition switch there is a plug with two wires where one wire is Black/White while the other is solid Black. Remove this plug and check for voltage on the solid Black wire, no key necessary.
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i was looking at the ignition switch earlier...and i didnt see any plug. There is just 5 or 6 wires connecting to the opposite end of where you put the key on the ignition. where is this plug? and what color is it?
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there arent any plugs in the steering column, unless they are behind the dash.
Just the wires, going to the switch itself which are all black except one red smaller wire.
Just the wires, going to the switch itself which are all black except one red smaller wire.
#15
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EDIT: And make sure the Main fuse in the engine fuse box is good to go.
#18
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Looks like one of the wires is Blue, plus wouldn't the wires shown in the pic lead to plugs like in the link provided below?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/86-92Electrical-Chassis.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/86-92Electrical-Chassis.htm
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alright i found the clips. but does it sound like it is the switch itself to all of you guys?
is there anyway the alternator could have been slowly going bad,
Satch you helped me a couple of months ago with my s5 to s4 alt swap and the wiring with that. do you think it could be something to do with the soldered wire into the main relay??
or the alt module going bad or something??
is there anyway the alternator could have been slowly going bad,
Satch you helped me a couple of months ago with my s5 to s4 alt swap and the wiring with that. do you think it could be something to do with the soldered wire into the main relay??
or the alt module going bad or something??
#25
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alright i found the clips. but does it sound like it is the switch itself to all of you guys?
is there anyway the alternator could have been slowly going bad,
Satch you helped me a couple of months ago with my s5 to s4 alt swap and the wiring with that. do you think it could be something to do with the soldered wire into the main relay??
or the alt module going bad or something??
is there anyway the alternator could have been slowly going bad,
Satch you helped me a couple of months ago with my s5 to s4 alt swap and the wiring with that. do you think it could be something to do with the soldered wire into the main relay??
or the alt module going bad or something??
If the battery has a proper charge, which takes all of ten seconds to check, then the car does not need an alternator to start.