i dont have a multimeter to check it right now is there any ghetto way to check it??

 

You could use an LED light like the kind used to test for error codes or set the TPS.

 

i have my own custom made tps adjuster led light deal...what would i connect to what?

 

You would use the car battery to verify which of the two wires is the positive wire and which is the negative. Then you would touch the positive wire to the Black ignition wire and the negative wire to a sufficient ground and the light would turn on if there was voltage on the Black wire.

 

so i hook a light up to my battery and the ground .then touch the positive to the black ignition wire and if it lights up that means it something else is wrong?.....

 

No. You use the battery to discern which of the two wires to the LED light is positive and which is negative. Once that has been figured out you take the positive LED wire and put it to the Black ignition wire and the negative LED wire goes to a sufficient ground. If it lights up then the Black ignition wire has voltage to it.

 

could i also just use a little fuse tester on the wire?

 

I gather so.

 

ight so if i just touch the fuse tester to one of the two connector prongs on the plug and the fuse tester lights up its something else??

 

Just find "one" of the many ways available to check for voltage which you are comfortable and familiar with and measure for voltage on the wire in question and go from there.

 

So, if the wire were to have voltage. What is this process you speak of that would trace the problem very simply?

 

If the wire in question were to have voltage then you would turn the key to on with all ignition plugs connected and test for voltage on the Black/White wire found in the same plug as the Black wire. The B/W wire would need to be pricked with a pin to take a voltage reading from it.

 

Off topic, but props to the OP for using your FC as a DD in Minnesota. With all our snow, ice, and cold, I'm surprised that your car can even move. Luckily for me, my TII is sitting in a heated garage for the winter. Good luck with your electrical gremlins...

 

but what is the process that would tell me what the problem is then satch?

 

The Black wire that is so talked about powers the ignition switch. Turn the key to ACC and the voltage magically passes onto the Blue wire so it could travel to the interior fuse box to power up the fuses which drives the accessory items like the radio and power mirrors and so on. Turn the key to on and the voltage passes onto the Black/White wire and a Black/Red wire as well which powers the fuses that are part of the wipers circuit and turn signals and Main Relay and the Circuit Opening Relay that governs the fuel pump and so on and so on. Turn the key to start and the voltage goes to another Black/Red wire which powers up the starting circuit. W/o voltage on the Black wire none of this works as any fuses which are Accesory, IG1, IG2 and Start fuses are rendered powerless. The only thing which "might" have power are various lights, horn, hazards for example because they don't rely on voltage from the ignition switch in any way shape or form. The rest should be obvious of why you need to see if the Black wire has voltage or not and it should not have taken longer than five minutes to do.

 

Well it wouldn't have but i dont have the right tools, and im kind of a newb with electrical and how to test voltage on wires so when you tell me how to do it i dont understand it. I know this will make you angry, but im just being honest.

 

Borrowing or purchasing a multimeter would be a good start as you can get one for ten bucks. Second thing would be to find the Black wire and w/the multimeter set to dc volts place the red meter lead on the Black wire and the black meter lead to a suitable ground and take the reading as there is either 12 volts on the wire or none at all.

 

Borrowing or purchasing a multimeter would be a good start as you can get one for ten bucks. Second thing would be to find the Black wire and w/the multimeter set to dc volts place the red meter lead on the Black wire and the black meter lead to a suitable ground and take the reading as there is either 12 volts on the wire or none at all.

You told me you had an LED light. This light has two wires where one is a positive wire and the other is a negative. Your car has a battery. This battery has a positive post and a negative post. If by chance you placed the positive wire of the light on the positive battery post and did the same thing with the negative LED wire what would you expect the light to do? I would expect it to light up. If you placed the wires on the terminals of the battery and it did not light up I suppose you got the wires crossed. Switching the wires would cause the light to turn on. This should take no more than 10 seconds to accomplish. Once you figure out which is the + wire and which is the - wire then you take this light to the Black wire which is supposed to have voltage on it and place the + LED wire to it and the -LED wire to a suitable ground and if the Black wire has voltage on it then the light will turn on. No voltage= no light!

 

i unhooked the plug and put the LED + wire into the solid black wire side of the plug and touched the LED - wire to a ground and got no light. Therefore no power to that black wire??? what would be the cause of no start then??

 

TIIFC3S i met you down at 280 one time. Remember you followed me from university to the wendys parking lot. haha small world.

 

Did you test to see if the light worked by using the + and - battery terminals? What did you use for the ground when testing the Black wire?

 

ya the light is good i tested it last night. but to test the black wire i used a bare metal cross bar under the dash.

 

There is a black plug about a foot below the engine fuse box. On the side of the fuse box where the Main fuse is there is a Black/White wire that goes from the fuse box to the black plug. This plug connects the Black/White wire to a Black wire. The Black wire is the one you tested at the ignition switch which should have power constantly. Test for voltage on the B/W wire first and if there is voltage on this wire then with the connector plugged in joining these two wires try getting a voltage reading off of the Black wire. Under the dash to the right of the steering wheel is a relay, Yellow in color, that has 5 wires to it. In one corner there is a solid Black wire which is a ground. If the negative LED wire can reach it to test the Black wire at the ignition switch then you might want to retry the test for voltage one more time as there is no guessing game as far as finding a good ground.

Focus on red arrow while ignoring the blue arrow.



Focus on the lower left solid Black wire as the ground. We're talking SOLID BLACK and not Black/Red.

 

i just tried jumping my car again...because i had an n/a rx7 before my TII that i listened to music with my system hooked up and it killed my battery so bad that i had to have it hooked up to another car for abut 15 minutes before it would start again. correct me if im wrong...usually when you put the jumper cables on the running car then hook up the dead car cant you usually get a spark or two when touching the positive terminal on the dead car (my TII) because when i was just attempting to jump the car with the negative side of the jumper cable already hooked up to my battery and just touching/wiggling the positive side of the jumper cables on the positive terminal and couldn't get a spark if i tried. Just thought i would see if that says anything?

As far as the black plug by the engines fuse box...your saying, the wire leaving that plug is the same wire i tested under the dash?

 

As far as the black plug by the engines fuse box...your saying, the wire leaving that plug is the same wire i tested under the dash?

Yes.