I have a beautiful GXL/TII which I built myself. Running a big turbo, bad *** tube manifold, Haltech E6k, tons of fuel, and other goodies. Anyways I'm having electrical problems! This did not start abruptly following my Haltech install. It started about 4 months after. I get excess voltage drop when turning on accessories. When i turn my heater blower motor on my voltage drops to like 8 volts and it eventually flips the resetable fuse (breaker) in the stock fuse box, TODAY i tired to close my sunroof and it heated up the positive batter cable so much that down by the starter it caught on fire due to some oil residue it had on it.

My cars alternator puts on 14-14.5 volts, the battery has been load tested, the negative battery cable was replaced because of a bad terminal clamp, i checked the positive for voltage drop and got zero volts. I ripped aparter the stock chassis harness (that has the pos/neg batt. cables going through it and checked it out and re-wrapped it. Please any ideas!!!

 

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well there is a short somewhere obviously, my only guess wwould still be the alt. . maybe the regulator is going bad? I'm really not sure though, just throwing an idea out there

 

thanks man, i appreciate the thoughts. i swapped out alternators to rule this out. i guess i should start tracing ALL wires. this sux the big one. haha. If there was a short on the alt. to batter wire it would pop the 80 amp main fuse, so that wire is ruled out. I hate this ****!!!! Any other input is greatly appreciated!!

 

Ummm have you tried running a lead from the output terminal on the alt. directly to the positive terminal on the battery? That might help out with the voltage drop a bit, but still doesn't explain why your posative terminal gets so hot. There must be a short. . lol

 

very nice looking car by the way

 

thanks man. i've worked hard on it. the short would have to be on something pretty damn big to cause such problems though and why wouldn't it pop the main 80 amp fuse or pop a fuse in general? HELLLPPPP hahaha

 

also. the car runs fine. although when i turn on my headlights and have my brakes apllied on it lowers my idle about 200rpms. i am not running a BAC so i guess this could be considered normal? also i had in brand new headlights, the low beams work, but both high beams went out at once. this happened along with the all the everyone thing else (heater issue, turn it on and batt drops to like 8 bolts and throws breaker). anybody?

 

have you checked the fuse panel in the car? Check the power wire going to it, and also check the ground. Hell run a new power and ground to it. And yes the lower idle under electrical load is normal with no BAC

 

well lets say i share your pain man. Cause mine is acting up. Gause cluster went out along with idiot cluster and a/c switch panel. still havent found the problem.

 

thats shitty man! **** i thought i had problems

 

good call man. i'll do that tommorow for sure.

ALL HELP IS GREATTTLY appreciated!!!

 

Have you checked the Factory Service Manual? i'll check the chasis harness diagrams for a few minutes before I go to bed and see what I can find. I'll let you know

 

****, i'm getting lost in wiring diagrams right now, it's way to late to be trying to follow them. I'll look tomorrow. Goodluck finding the short. If you don't have a decent multi-meter you should invest in one. It will make your life alot easier. . lol

 

hey thanks for doing that man. i have a FSM and the online ones too (its nice there more blown up vs the little *** pages in the FSM book. I have a nice DVOM or DMM yea, although im not the best at electrical diagnosis. you can probe the circuit and if you get a resistance readin of OL or infinite theres a short. but man it all sounds easy in theory. hahha. It has to be somewhere between the battery and the main fuse box. because everything after is such a small load on the circuit you would think. damn i gotta study for this antomy and physiology test i have tommorow...i wish my short would just "go away" hahaha

 

biggity biggity bump