jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

The fan has three wires-
One is ground,
One is high-speed
One is low-speed

Ground goes to the ground, hook the low speed up to terminal 87. Hook the rest up as in the diagram below.



Buy your relays here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-PACK-30-40-AM...713.m153.l1262

Buy the 10 pack. You need to use 4 of them on your power windows anyway.

yeti

iTrader: (1)

Hey I figured this would get more air time and quicker response here than in my small thread.

I was wondering what you thought about these...
It a 40 amp auto resetting circuit breaker.
www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d60.html

I figure this way if the amp does blow the fuse on start up it'll reset and try again maybe next time will be a smaller current draw instead of just blowing and overheating your engine. if you put it between 87 and the fan you qould protect your relay right? I'm tried so maybe I'm not so clear..

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

A Taurus fan won't blow a 40 amp fuse on startup, unless there is a problem.

Period.

You are trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

I don't like the idea of auto resetting circuit breaker. Fuses blow for a reason, they don't just blow 'sometimes'. This permits you to ignore a problem that needs attention. What if you wire the thing incorrectly, or a wire rubs and starts shorting out?

yeti

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I guess it was some misinformation then. I thought that there was times that on start up people where hitting spikes large enough to blow their fuse or relay. I know in all your tests it never did but I was just wanting to be sure. I don't understand why there is all this wrong information over the subject. Are the freewheeling diodes necessary?

Where did you end up with the fan probe. And should I get an adjustable one or one set for 195?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

People are focused on the wrong things, and they do it for all the wrong reasons.

All fans have a 'start-up spike'. That's the way they work. It is technically called a current inrush. A 40 amp fuse will not blow from a 'start-up spike' that exceeds the fuse rating. These fuses are 'slow blow'. In other words, they will tolerate a current inrush, but will blow instantly from a short circuit. The fuse is intended to protect the wiring against short circuits and overloads.

The fuse should be sized to limit the current to the max capacity of the wire sized up 10%. The wire should be sized to carry the current of the load, and sized up 10-20%. Pick the next higher fuse and there you go.

In our example of the Taurus fan: the fan pulls 25 amps on high. Add 10% and we round up to 28 amps continuous. We need minimum of 10 gauge wire, as this is rated for 30 amps. Take the 28 amps and add another 20%, again rounding up we get 34 amps. We therefore need a 40 amp fuse.


If the 40 amp blows in this system, there is something wrong with the motor or the wiring. The blown fuse did it's job and you trouble shoot to find the problem. You don't just put in another fuse and let it go.

Same example, if you were only going to use the Taurus fan on low-speed, you take 15 amps, add 10% and round to get 17 amps. We can use 12 gauge wire (20 amp rated) wire for this. Add 20% and we round up to 21 amps. On this system we can use a 25 amp fuse.

The problem I had was wire gauge on the relay sockets. The 16 gauge wire could not handle the high speed 25 amp load. The wire became an electrical resistance heater and melted the socket.

Freewheeling diode is a different matter. I have no opinion on that.

What we really need to protect against is the current collapse in the coil when the thermostat breaks the connection.This sets up a secondary voltage similar to the firing of a spark plug that jumps the contact on the relay. Relays that are designed to run motors often sold with this diode installed. I don't have time to say more, I have to go to a meeting.

Later.

yeti

iTrader: (1)

Hey, you may have already seem this but according to this guy (http://www.mustangmotorsport.com/fan.html) there is a thermal switch used in the late 70s early 80s VW Rabbits that is On 198/Off 189. Which may or maynot work for us. I don't really know what I'm reporting as the switch would be before the thermostat so I guess it wouldn't work? I'm just trying to help. It seems like the rest of his write up conflicts with your findings and is mostly repeating what everyone else says.

rotorbugg

Can anyone tell me which terminals on the fan are which? I just installed a 95 Ford Contour (same as Taurus) fan. I'm using the outside 2 terminals and it's running (on high I think) but I don't want to use trial and error. Thanks.

The connector:
- _ -
(xxx)

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I've been using the Taurus fan for about 2 months now.

It's temporarily manual wired while I figure out how I'll control it.

It's connected to the battery via 30amp fuse and 30amp relay. Using the green inspection plug for ignition on.

Low setting is fine in the winter here in phoenix. I barely crack 205~f while drifting.

At Phoenix raceway I did have to go to high setting when the temps rose past 90~f during mid day. I made it one lap around the track before I blew the 30amp fuse.

luckily I was going fast enough that air flow kept me cool.

I'll be going 70 amp relay and probably 70/65 amp fuse.

Still undecided on a fan controller though.

rotorbugg

x2... I'm putting my stock clutch/fan/shroud on tomorrow. The S4 alternator can not supply the current needed at idle. (for the low speed I believe) Sitting in traffic or idling a lot can flatten the battery. Once, I noticed that my headlights were almost out! Had I not gotten moving quickly, it probably would have shut off and I would have been calling AAA. The fan did perform well though with regard to cooling. I got it because I thought the stock fan clutch was going out, (vibration) but it turned out to be my trans mounts. The car is my DD and I'm trying not to be working on it every weekend, so it's back to stock for me.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

I could have told you that, or you could have read my other thread about upgrading to a 130 amp Ford Taurus alternator to handle the Ford Taurus E-Fan.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=sweetness

If the stock S5 80 amp alternator couldn't handle the fan, then the S4 70 amp is even less likely to carry it.

rotorbugg

Yeah, I noticed that after I posted. Good info; I'd like to go with something beefy on my beetle project since I'm going to have a ton of electronics. I don't have a serpentine belt so I'll have to see what's available. (a side mount alternator may be my only accessory)

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

I'm making a visit to my Bro's wind tunnel/fan testing facility later this month or early next month. I will be testing the Taurus 2-speed and the Mark IV fan. Data collected will be rpm, starting amperage, running amperage, cfm and static pressure. Should make for an interesting evening.

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

after about a year of use, i melted the wires going to my fan.
so guys- make sure you use 10 gauge wire for the entire length of the high speed fan!
the low speed should be fine with 12.