Kyrasis6

I want to start ordering parts this week as I have most of my last paycheck put back and should be getting my next bonus check this week or next. The car will be mainly a weekend driver with some occational track time on some local roadcoarses. It may see some daily driving for a short time when I build my truck, but the truck will be my daily driver until spring when I start to build it at which time I'll drive the 7 until the truck is back together.

Here is what I have planned provided I don't run into surprises when I start taking her appart this week:

Atkins rotary rebuild kit
Street port
Pineapple Racing 6 port inserts with RPM triggered ports
RX-8 eshaft + micropolishing
RX-8 stationary gears w/ the proper bearings of course
Ported intake and throttle body
Racing Beat True Dual Header
S5 tranny will be swapped in
LSD will be installed (I forget which one it is, just remember it bolts in)

I'll be doing all the port work, hand modifications and assembly. I don't have the money for a full true dual exhaust at the moment, the header came with the car when I baught it and has never been installed. I will fabricate a 2 into 1 collector to mate up to a Racing Beat stock replacement Y-pipe which was already installed. I would like to keep a presilencer in there but dont' know what to get for the 2 into 1 merge. Some parts may get engine coatings depending on what kind of deal I can work out through work. Right now I'm mainly thinking about having an anti-stick coating done on the apex seal grooves and may have the oil pan and/or exterior of some of the housings Kool Chromed by calico.

What do you guys think? This is my first rotary build and I'm trying to keep it fairly basic and mild.

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

If you are staying N/A why not get the 5/6 ports bridgeported. You retain stock idle (or at least street port idle in your case) but pick up high end flow.... Just a thought.


BC

Node

iTrader: (1)

you could always just polish your rotor housings since they are aluminum after all.

I wouldn't suggest coating the apex-seal groove as its a high wear area and if something starts to chip or get in behind your apex seal then you're kinda fucked.

I'm coating my irons, rotors, intake manifolds (inside/out) and my turbo, turbo manifold and downpipe
-Ben Martin

Kyrasis6

Ok, I know nothing about bridgeporting the 5/6 ports what does that entail? I do plan on running it at higher RPMs than usual.

I'm not worried about any of the coatings I'm considering, I have seen what they can do first hand where I work. Any usuable coating for an apex seal grove wouldn't flake off anyways since it would have to be a coating that impregnated the metal or was extremely thin. We use DLC on some stuff here and have never had any problems with it in any way other than defects from the coaters themselves (ie dropping the part and damaging it, etc...)

Kyrasis6

What about fuel? I planned on converting over to megasquirt after I had it rebuilt and running but I don't have any idea what kind of numbers it would be putting out or how much more fuel it would need.

iceblue

Few things in my opinion based on how I send my motors out.

I only use OEM seals!
I do not TB mod but I do polish the internals of the TB.
With that setup I would not port the intake to change the timing but I would do some port work to the runners and the intake mani runners. I would run TII sleeves and some port work but I would not bring the port down to shorten the stroke.

Kyrasis6

Still learning as I go here, I don't know how most people on here modify their throttle bodies, I will be doing mine off of flowbench numbers and experience other throttle bodies.

I'm considering this "6 port bridge" although I don't understand how it would provide any different high end power than just opening up the 6 port a bit?

Only thing I can say about seals is that Viton O-rings are far superior to a standard rubber o-ring. I don't expect to put more than 60,000 miles on this engine before yanking it for a bigger more race oriented engine. I don't really see much stubstantial information on what apex seals are better, I would probably go OEM because I know Mazda chose their design off of testing and for a reason but I know Dan so I'm going to give Atkins a try. Just because I know Dan doesn't mean I won't be inspecting everything the way I would at work though. All parts will get a visual inspection, rubber parts will be checked with a durometer, friction surfaces will have surface finish checked, the seal springs will be checked for spring rate, and I have the ability to measure almost everything to within .00005" (.00002" if I beg someone, lol).

If I don't like them for some reason him and I might not be friends anymore, lol.

I am still very new at understanding the dynamics of a rotary though. I'm guessing on the exhaust port I can go wider without changing timing, going up I think would be like closing an exhaust valve later and going down (towards the oil pan) would be like opening it sooner am I correct? Same would apply to the intake ports in regards to timing?

So would the stroke be the distance the rotor travels from the time the intake port is open until it is closed? If that was the case wouldn't moving the timing increase the stroke? Since you seem like a good brain to pick does increasing and decreasing the effective stroke on rotary have a similar effect as it would in a piston engine?

Kyrasis6

Wow, that is some neat stuff on your myspace page! *Watches some videos*

iceblue

The agreeable mass is few from far on my side but each builder there own.

You are so far correct on your asumptions. I agree about the orings I was moreso speaking of the hard seals. In short it would be a foolish in most asumptions for a mom and pop shop of any sort to produce a bettor product then a company that has strived to survive and put evry big and billions of dollors in RND to produce the best seal posible. The coolant rings are blowing from the exspanshion rats of aluminum against cast and not from lack of viton. However a stronger seal as you have said can provide a larger margin for failure.

Kyrasis6

Are you talking about this?

Mazdatrix O-Ring Problem FAQ

So what are the reasons behind not changing port timing? I can see why you wouldn't want the exhaust to close any later but why leave everything else alone?

On the power stroke I would think most of the power would be made within roughly the first 20 deg or so of rotation so I don't think advancing the opening time of the exhaust port would cause any problems there.

Would having the intake port open sooner be able to utuilize exhaust flow to get the intake charge moving like on a piston engine or does it mainly just allow more exhaust to mix with the charge negating and power gains?

Does the port and tub design of the chambers promote tumbling the AF charge? In piston engines port design and the shape/size of the piston dish are used to maintain and accelerate swirling and turbulance before the charge ignites. If the rotary does have some type of swirl flow does it move around clockwise like the way the rotor moves or does it try to flow more horizontal like around the rim of the combustion chamber tub?

iceblue

No I was refering to the coolant rings.

I could discus it with you over PM because like I said my resons are few from far and certain mods that dont agree will just delet your thread.

Your right and nearly all of you focuse on porting should be geard towrds the opening but my resons for ^ is why I still do not toutch it or exstreamly lightly depending on mods or in some cases very far. Again the resons of choice or based upon my ^ techniques.

Yes it would scavenging works the same and charges the intake up. Mazda has already teken this into consideration and tuned for this. Have to remember port tuning NA and turbo are compleatly different.

Yea it is same princible. You want to try and achive a swirl with your porting. But even if your succeed in doing so on the flow bench you could still be far from acomplished. What happens on the bench is hardly acurect to what is seen inside a runing engin.