iceblue

Allright guys my grandmas camera came in mail today so I put it to use. I took pics of where my project is at right now in no specific order. I have finished puting the interior back together and a few minor things since pics other day but enjoy and when the exhoust is on and so forth I will drive it over there and get more pics. Note this is the car I built for girl friend. pics 800x600
List of mods
Removed all emishions ACV BAC rats nest and so forth
2.5in down pipe "came with motor"
S5 Ported and polished and flapper mod on TB
3in IC piping
FMIC
BOV Greddy type RS
Koyo RAD
Rewired engin harness to remove all unnecisary wires for emishions and reloomed
MBC
Knowlogy hot wires
Boost guage
Revers glow guages
CF bezzel
sparco wheel
Push button ignition
TID "Installing monday"
Engin dress up "BS"
Moded filler neck to allow opening with IC pipe
Fabricated throttle cable mounts "not in pics"
new idle screw "not in pics - I broke idle screw when moding s5 TB to use on S4"
FD fule pump

iceblue

pics 6 - 10 of 26

Spottty

Dude, put a rubber gromet around those cables where they go through the hole. They will wear through the wire cover and short your car out/ possibly light it on fire.

Sounds like your getting alot done, lets see some more pics!

MidwestTurboII

seems to be coming along well.....but i think u could use a spellcheck lol.....emishions, nice! i want to remove the emissions **** on my car too, but i actually have to pass those damn tests here.

iceblue

11 - 15

iceblue

I did pics took befor then :-)

88t2romad

next you NEED to lower it

iceblue

5 more

iceblue

5 more having fun yet?

iceblue

conclushion of fridays pics finished project soon to be revield

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That battery relocation is frightening. No breaker or fuse, improper restraints, and no grommit around the cables. Not to mention that it's a flooded battery, which is totally improper for in-cabin installation. Any official at any track would red flag that car faster then you could even imagine.

Th battery connections in the engine bay are abysmal. The crimps are poor, I see no evidence of solder, and there is no dielectric grease. Having the connections in the open air with no ancher to the car also means they will fail in a short time. And since you have no fuse or breaker at the battery, it will be a spectacular failure.

Sorry, but stuff like this just annoys the hell out of me. Do it right, or don't do it at all.

You are also missing the cooling panels beween the front bumper and crossmember. Major hit in cooling capacity as the panels are no longer there to direct air to the rad.

cwsttu

hey where did you get those radiator hoses.. they look pretty nice


christopher

iceblue

I said pics were befor gromits. A 50amp fuise is added on + at battory. The battory was to get it runing I am using a jellcell battory.

This was the dry fitment, I am buiding an aluminum box for it and ancoring it there. Greas is now added on connections. Soldor no I did not solder.

Give me some time to finalise evrything.

You mean the plastic pan that went under it? Yes I still have to put that back on but I did lose the brake ducts

iceblue

It is actualy thows reative kits you can buy and sleve the hoses and add the anadized covers. I like the look of the covers but I hate the kit, its cheezy, it was free thow a friend gave it to me.

gonzz

Where did you get your intercooling piping? I need some aluminum piping for a fair price

iceblue

I was cheep and got a kit for 100$ from ebay after hunting for a few days. DONT DO IT! The aluminum is so shity quality in the diferentials that you cant even weld it. The weld will bead off it or the coating will melt away after the aluminum is arcing so its a battle that can be avoided. Thats why there is so meany clamps on the setup and welding the BOV flange is a chore b/c your welding good aluminum to crapy aluminum and yea thats not good so you have to pile on the weld and grinde it down. Try a aluminum suply shop neer you or get pipes from a reputable company.

topaz

Nice work man... you got thing to do of course... I just wanna mention that your tyres are alot "smaller" than the original diamentions... 205/40/17 LOL! try 225/45/17 and you are perfect!
An idea for the "looks": Why don't you make it a Initial D replica?

Good luck!

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Why is your AFM/filter pointed backwards sitting right next to the hot turbo, and the filter right next to the hot exhaust pipe? Did you put like a 180 bend on that thing or something?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you'll have much luck with a 50A fuse. It will blow in a few seconds under the 400A cranking current, especially if the car floods and you need to crank several times.


If you don't have a proper crimper, then you need to solder the connections. Moisture will make it's way into the crimp and corrode the copper very quickly. Crimp, then solder, then heat shrink (use heat shrink that has built in sealant).

There are two plastic plates that go from the bumper to the crossmember under the relays. Might require some fabbing to make them work with your intercooler, but they are very necessary.

vicious525E

the factory doesnt run a fuse to the hot wire for the starter solonoid, just a 80A fuse comming back from the alt post. do you recomend running another 80 twords the battery (i know its good to have fuses located as close to the battery as possable)
and i agree with aaron cake, solder is important, if you used two guage wire like i did, just put a decent amount of solder in your connections and heat with a torch, then just slide the striped wire in. i didnt use heat shrink, but i dont see it as a wise choice on my part.

ultradef

This thread should help you to understand his "theories" on how an intake works.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/installled-custom-cai-now-422883/

iceblue

topaz - lol yea when its time for tires they will def be 225. I got the rims and tires new for 615$ so im not complaining. Part of the goal of this car and my reso nfor mounting FMIC where it is so that we wanted to make it look as much NA as posible and not to be able to tell its turbo on the street untill you get on it. The body theme will wide body and front and rear kit I forgot name of kit were gona use thow and it will then be painted base white with pink perl. When engin goes and gets rebuilt it will then be polished painted to match theam.

SonicRaT - I was having a hard time with fitment of TID with the IC pipe so I turnd it around so that I could get the car started at least. I am having a new TID made.

Aaron Cake - thx aaron I what size fuse to use? I had pulld the wires apart yesterday and solderd them up and then coated them in delithuim glu from 3m. Is the air pan your talking about the grill looking thing in the center? I put the botum pan on yesterday.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I could be wrong, but I think there's a fusable link. Probably not very important to add a fuse between the battery and the starter. The wire is well protected, is nowhere near any moving parts, and I've never heard of one ever shorting.

The battery connects directly to the 80A fuse that the alternator leads to, which is the "main" fuse for the car.

That's the wrong way to solder. You need to make sure the inside of the terminal is SPOTLESSLY clean, as is the wire. Brush a generous coating of flux on both the wire and inside of the terminal. Heat the terminal with a torch, sometimes lightly touching the wire. Touch some solder to the joint between the terminal and wire. If it melts, then coninue feeding it in until the terminal end is full, but DON'T let it wick up the wire. If it travels up the wire, it will cause cracks to form and the joint will fail. Once it's done, seal with heat shrink (which you would have had to slip on before soldering).

If you have a proper crimper, then you can also crimp after applying the appropriate dielectric grease.

200A should do it. You could probably get by with a 100A, but you may find it blowing if you have to crank for a while. That's a pain in the butt. Personally, I like circuit breakers for this purpose as they won't strand you on the side of the road.

The plastic panels are right under the relays, and go from the front of the bumper to the crossmember. I've already posted this. I don't know another way to describe them.

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

where did you get your dash kit? i like.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

get bigger profiler tires, even if you lower the car they'll look off, looks like your car is on rollerskate wheels