Well todays another day and this is my progress of the last 2 days. The interior is the same but engin bay and stuff is not. The pic of the passenger firewall shows the hadlines I utalized for boost guage and fule line

Things done:
Modify and install under belly pan
Fix leaking oil line with spare one
Remove electric fan was not doing the job well enugh
Install pully fan and shroud
modify pully fan shroud to acomidate intercooler piping and hood clearance.
Set TPS idle and cable tenshion
Finish battory cable job with solder and delithium greas/glue
system ground under fuse pannel fixed - melted bad quick connectors together
relocate TID untill new one is made and devise a filter plan

Left to do:
Fab a pan between the modifyd belly pan to front bumper.
Fab side ducts
Have TID made
Have exhoust welded together
Buy and install water temp guage
Check thermostat is good and install
Install inline braker with batt
Install Jell cell battory
Figure out why volt guage dont work
figure out why speedomitor dont work
fix passengor door inside lock
Devise a plan for horn to keep wires from wraping around stearing colum and riping out of crimps
Figure out why A/C controll unit dosent work
fab under hood cover sheet
buy power stearing belt 1/2in shorter for IC pipe clearance
Shield and wrap fule line to allow no posible seepage or burst leaking onto exhoust/turbo
fab dry ice box around IC pipe

 

last pics of the last 2 days work

 

I am using ECU N338 do you need a FCD with this ECU? And how much boost for daily driving with this ECU?

 

Guages - ebay
CF bezzel - good luck I hunted for ever and evenchaly found one on ebay as well

I have an extra one for S5 and revers glow guages and indiglow guages for S5 if you have an S5 and are in need.

 

i have an S4

 

Looks like im perity much done with installing stuff and fabricating stuff on this project. Thought I would post its donor. And when I get the car back from GF I can detail it and post what its cleanlyness looks like and all. Still need to install dry ice box, batt box. I got a TID solution. so until more $ for this car is available it will sit. When available exhoust and TID is going on it. I will do the boxes when I have time and the car.

I keeping donor. As I said in another post hunting for a GTUs and will make it right hand drive.

 

Man that looks tight. i would love to hear how you got you white face gauges to work, cause i have the Exact same set and they wont work for crap. or if u could point me in the direction of a good write up i would appreciate it (pm me)

 

Why don't you just run new wire all together instead of soldering or crimping. Just run two wires. One to the alternator with a 80AMP fuse and one straight to the starter. You can not put a fuse between the starter and battery. I see it would be a lot simpler and cleaner. And re-run the grounds. I believe theres only one main ground wire that goes to the block but I could be wrong. If anything, this gives you a chance to run a few more grounds around the vehicle. All you have to do is make sure it won't rub against the chasis or like aaron said NO MOVING PARTS. Keep it away from heat and run wire loom around them. That's how I would have done it.

Please don't rag on him. He's just trying to do things himself. I have great respect for people willing to do all of that. Just be sure you know what you're doing.

 

May I ask why everyone wants those white faced gauges? I think the stock gauges are gorgeous. Well I was in the civic scene for a while so maybe thats why I got sick of the white face.

 

How does the bov sounds like? it is loud?
Nice work

 

Put a Ford starter solenoid in the positive battery cable at the battery. Extend the wire from the existing starter solenoid to the new solenoid. Make a 12 AWG wire to go from the battery cable connection on the starter to the solenoid on the starter. Run a 8 AWG wire from the positive battery terminal to the old positive battery cable connection and fuse the cable at the battery end with the same rating fues as the alternator. This way the big battery cable is only hot during cranking and you have protection for the smaller cable in case of a short.

If you ever show up to a drag strip you'll need to have a cutoff switch on the rear of the car that kills all the electrical power. To install that switch without killing your ECU from a voltage spike the alternator must stay connected to the battery when the switch is cut. To do this disconnect the battery wire from the alternator and tape it or shrink wrap it. Run a new wire from the battery terminal on the alternator to the battery. 8 AWG is sufficient. Don't use anything less. Again, fuse both ends with the same rating fues as the alternator fuse. You can now put the cutoff switch in the wire that feeds power to the body. You will end up with 2 AWG 8 wires and the heavy battery cable running from back to front, but it's really the safest way and it makes the battery electrical install NHRA legal.

 

Very good NFO. Thx for the post. This will have to wait till more $ available. The exhoust is going on ASAP and then suspention perhaps during one of these times I can do this.

.AVI coming tomarrow of car runing and all and I will say HI! to evryone :-) Have had alot of requests about the BOV so thats the main reson for vid.