i have stereo equipment in the back covering the fuel pump access so its a bitch to get to..
i decided to try and start it with the jumperwire in the yellow test connector first.. and it just does the same thing,
starts up and revs high then dies instantly.. i unplugged my AFM gave a quick check to the connections and plugged it back in as well,
still nothing different

should i still try that volt meter on the fuel pump then?

 

Let's see. It was a series four non turbo to begin with.........no Fuel Pump Relay and Resistor in a series four non turbo, only in the series four Turbo cars. So that is out although the thought of the resistor was a good idea.

But yeah, leave the jumper in the yellow two socket plug to make the pump run all the time. It has symptoms of the fuel switch in the afm not working and the jumper job does the same thing as the switch in the afm.

It also has the symptoms of a afm being unplugged. The ECU only uses the afm for fuel after the engine starts. During start it uses a MAP inside the ECU for starting fuel. So it might start due to the MAP inside the ECU delivering fuel, but once the engine is over 500rpm that MAP is not used anymore and NOW the afm is used for fuel.

So the afm can cause your problem in two ways. One is the fuel switch inside the afm not *MAKING* after starting and the other is if the signal from the afm to the ECU is not there by the plug being offf the afm or??????open wire.

 

symptoms now do sound like afm... any way of using the n/a afm to test?

 

thanks for everyones help,
i wouldnt be able to do this all myself.

okay -- i made some progress today while the site was down
i got the "start up and immediately shut off" thing fixed up, via the AFM wires. wasnt easy to find/figure out but i was out there all day, but its not fixed just yet.

so now, it starts up, the fuel is all working fine, it starts every time.
however,
when i start it up, it wont idle on its own, it just wants to die.. the good thing is that i can keep it running, its just shaky and pretty rough.

when i press the gas pedal it gives a little bog at first then will start to pick up RPMs. and when i have the pedal pressed constantly (not blurping the throttle) , the rpms dont seem to smooth.. kinda rough and sporatic? hard to explain over the internet.

is this to be worked out in the SAFC or in the idle screws?
i did the OHM TPS set, 1k at idle and 5k at WOT.
i dont know my throttle body and idle screws too well,
but i feel like its not just idle screws because its choppy and rough--does timing affect this at all?

 

didnt figure any of that last post out, but i got a few more problems...

posted 1 in the SAFC section - https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...53#post7488853

i found out my BOV was stuck shut, so i freed it up and made sure it had so lube and the piston moved up and down.
but even now, i dont hear it go off at all? i cant be outside the car at the same time so i cant see if it moves or not.

and also, my vac/boost gauge only shows vacuum...
even when its rev'd up to 5k or so.. shouldnt it be showing boost?

ughhhh this sucks i just want it to run right

 

What kidn of BOV and where is its vac source connected to?

Yes and no. You won't be able to generate much boost by simply free-revving the crap out of the car. There's not enough load on it to create pressure. A little bit perhaps on a hard stab to redline (1-2psi) but not much. However, where is the gauge getting its signal from? you may have it hooked up to a source that reads improperly.

 

i believe i have it all hooked up right.

its a Blitz BOV

the BOV nippled is hooked up to the bottom nippled on the front side on the UIM
(#3 on this diagram)



the gauge is T'd between the MAP sensor and the manifold (nipple right above the LIM/UIM gasket , right below the BAC)

those were just minor problems..
more imporantly , it hardly runs right.
its so rough and shaky and i cant get the rpms steady to even try and mess with the SAFC fuel corrections.

i dont understand why a Stock TII - ECU, AFM, MAP sensor, Injectors, Turbo, Manifolds, etc. doesnt just run right/decent from the getgo?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZAudYgiIsw

i tried to drive it hoping i could adjust some with the safc since i cant get a steady RPM in neutral, and it hardly moves, i had it pinned in first gear and it wouldnt go above 2.5k rpm...

made a video of it starting up ,
maybe this well help you help me?

 

watching that video made me wonder if your ecu is working correctly where did u get it and do u kno it works?

it seems like your afm isnt connected and the initial fuel map from the ecu is messed up
when u took it for a drive did u make boost?

 

i thought the same thing about the ecu, in fact right after i made that vid and put it up here, i swapped the ECU (N333-'88 TII) with another ECU (N332-'87 TII) that i had around and it made no difference.

i got both from forum members, who claimed they were working fine when the sent them to me.

also AFM Is definately connected

when i took it for a drive, i only went about 100yards because of the poor running condition, as soon as there was a load on the motor it barely ran, i think it was at about 2.5k rpm and i was pinned, it wasnt going anywhere fast (15 mph).. didnt notice the boost gauge but i didnt feel any boost thats for sure


**shot in the dark - would the TII front cover's pulley alignment needle be in a different location than my NA's front cover? i highly doubt it.. but im not eliminating any possibility right now..

 

okay i think i actually got it all figured out,

one last question dealing with the SAFC

if i hook the throttle (Gray SAFC wire) up to the boost pressure instead of the TPS signal, what do i set the HI and LO settings for? i havent been able to find an answer for that..

thanks everyone for your help !

 

im ready to shoot myself now,

i replaced the 2ndary rail to an s4 TII (the s5 didnt fit EXACTLY how i wanted it to, thought hat mighta been a problem) and the UIM (found a crack in it)... installed a wideband 02 sensor in place of the stock 02 sensor (temporary til i can get a new bung put in the bottom of the DP) ...still bucks and hesitates like crazy, and the wideband gauge bounces like crazy while driving, not a chance i can get a steady number at any throttle or any load..

also, i had previously made blockoff plates myself out of really thick aluminum, now i just ordered new blockoff plates and gaskets so i can re-do them (even tho im pretty sure they dont leak now--want to eliminate every possibility).

***do these symptoms sound like a bad MAP / incorrect MAP sensor?

im thinking theres a chance the TII map (pressure) sensor i got could be bad? or someone sold me an NA one? i just read that they mess with timing and maybe thats it?

im ready to give up

 

idles fine, runs fine in neutral in the driveway.. take it for a drive and it "stumbles and misses, hesitates, wideband bouncin all over the place" anywhere above 1.5k , i dont understand why it would do this? thought it was because of the MAP sensor, replaced that and still the same. any suggestions why it would do this? im realllllly f'in stuck

 

Good luck bro- up to the top. The only issue I had with my 6port turbo swap was with overboosting and a searching idle...

 

Can I install a megasquirt on your car yet? I was hoping that by this point that you would reconsider it. I installed one on this kids 89 vert with a 6-port turbo conversion up the street from me and I had it started right up on the first try and drove around pretty nicely. Just needed a little more coarse tuning followed by fine tuning. I use my Megasquirt setup as the basis for the install and parameters. Let me know if at any point that this is a route that you would wish to take.
Brian

 

never considered a megasquirt, but ill look into them some,.. ive been readin about the rtek 2.0 a lot lately though, i think shortly after christmas i might go that route.

still was lookin for a cheaper way to fix my problems.

 

Go megasquirt worth way more than the Rtek in your situation

 

wow, the megasquirt is way more involved than i wanna get.., id rather the ease of slappin a rtek in and adjusting that, rather than rewiring practically the whole motor and shtuff like that.

 

They make a plug and play unit for the MS.