ARE my housings and ROTORS GOOD OR DO I need new ones
#1
Rotary Freak
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ARE my housings and ROTORS GOOD OR DO I need new ones
check them out I hope I can re use them I'm low one cash
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1072.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1073.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1074.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1076.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1077.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1075.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1078.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1079.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1080.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1072.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1073.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1074.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1076.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1077.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1075.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1078.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1079.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2/IMG_1080.jpg
#2
BOOSTED Vert
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A better picture of the rotor would help, but one of those housings are fuked, I think its the 3rd pic. if the ammount of rust on the rotor is worrying you, just clean it with a wire brush and clean the slots good...
#6
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The rotor looks screwed...rusty rotors are sometimes reuseable, the rust on the faces doesnt matter and will come off, however the stuck sideseals as seen in the first pic are a killer...there is no real way to get them out, thus there is no way to reuse the rotor. This is why we don't let engines sit around and rust.
The housing in pic 76, I believe, is screwed due to the big rusty gouge in the center. The other one could be used but will have weak compression at best, and I'd shy away from it...seeing as youre going to need another one anyway, get a matched set, in better condition. You wont find any that are all that awesome, but you can do better than that by a good stretch...that one has 1/4" chrome flaking in spots, whereas 1/8" is normal.
The housing in pic 76, I believe, is screwed due to the big rusty gouge in the center. The other one could be used but will have weak compression at best, and I'd shy away from it...seeing as youre going to need another one anyway, get a matched set, in better condition. You wont find any that are all that awesome, but you can do better than that by a good stretch...that one has 1/4" chrome flaking in spots, whereas 1/8" is normal.
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#9
Shawn
Join Date: Jun 2004
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Getting out stuck seals on your rotors
Ok, now I didn't read any posts before cleaning up my rotors that had been sitting in my engine for upwards of 5 months, but here is what I did that got all of the seals out.
The first step would be to soak your rotors in some degreaser/all purpose cleaner. Myself i soaked them in "greased lightning" You can wash all of the internal parts of your engine in this very effectively, but NOT your front cover. Believe me on this.... I melted the coating off of it and am still waiting for my new one to arrive.
After the rotors soak, you can take one of the small toothbrush sized wire brushes and scrub on the rotor faces and on the tops of the seals that will not come out. Your rotor will probably still be very rusty and your seals still stuck at this point. Let your rotor soak overnight or so in the degreaser.
Now you will need a razor blade and a small flat headed screwdriver. The side seals on the sides of the rotors are probably wedged in their grooves VERY tight, as mine were. You will have to pry up the edge of the side seal where it sticks over the corner seal hole on one side enough to where a piece of it will actually break off. Now that the edge is broken off, pry up the side seal spring that is underneath the seal and grab it with some pliers. Pull up on the spring and keep doing so , pieces of the seal will break off and eventually the spring will come out with about 1/5 of the seal still in the rotor. Take the razorblade and bend it slightly so it fits the curve of the side seal groove and gently (as to not cut the rotor) tap it into the groove. now hammer the razor blade towards the end of the groove dispelling out the pieces of the seal and effectively cleaning your side seal grooves.
This is a long process and took me a few days to get my rotors completely clean, but considering the price it was worth it. Also my corner seals were stuck so I used a flatheaded screwdriver to pry out the rubber corner seal buttons, then I used a medium sized screwdriver and twisted the corner seals about 2/3 of a turn. After twisting VERY hard the little metal corner seals popped free enough to turn and i could wedge them out the same way i did the rubber buttons. (once you twist it the holes for the apex seal aren't lined up anymore. Even my apex seals were a pain in the *** to get out, but my rotors came out great.
Any q's email me at Brownsc17@hotmail.com
I'm writing this at work and taking calls at the same time, so sorry if it doesn't make sense. Feel free to email me with any questions.
The first step would be to soak your rotors in some degreaser/all purpose cleaner. Myself i soaked them in "greased lightning" You can wash all of the internal parts of your engine in this very effectively, but NOT your front cover. Believe me on this.... I melted the coating off of it and am still waiting for my new one to arrive.
After the rotors soak, you can take one of the small toothbrush sized wire brushes and scrub on the rotor faces and on the tops of the seals that will not come out. Your rotor will probably still be very rusty and your seals still stuck at this point. Let your rotor soak overnight or so in the degreaser.
Now you will need a razor blade and a small flat headed screwdriver. The side seals on the sides of the rotors are probably wedged in their grooves VERY tight, as mine were. You will have to pry up the edge of the side seal where it sticks over the corner seal hole on one side enough to where a piece of it will actually break off. Now that the edge is broken off, pry up the side seal spring that is underneath the seal and grab it with some pliers. Pull up on the spring and keep doing so , pieces of the seal will break off and eventually the spring will come out with about 1/5 of the seal still in the rotor. Take the razorblade and bend it slightly so it fits the curve of the side seal groove and gently (as to not cut the rotor) tap it into the groove. now hammer the razor blade towards the end of the groove dispelling out the pieces of the seal and effectively cleaning your side seal grooves.
This is a long process and took me a few days to get my rotors completely clean, but considering the price it was worth it. Also my corner seals were stuck so I used a flatheaded screwdriver to pry out the rubber corner seal buttons, then I used a medium sized screwdriver and twisted the corner seals about 2/3 of a turn. After twisting VERY hard the little metal corner seals popped free enough to turn and i could wedge them out the same way i did the rubber buttons. (once you twist it the holes for the apex seal aren't lined up anymore. Even my apex seals were a pain in the *** to get out, but my rotors came out great.
Any q's email me at Brownsc17@hotmail.com
I'm writing this at work and taking calls at the same time, so sorry if it doesn't make sense. Feel free to email me with any questions.
#11
Shawn
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As far as i can tell
As far as I can tell the greased lightning didn't hurt the bearings at all. I was using a mixture of about 2/3 greased lightning, 1/3 water.
Also you can scrape the face of the rotors with a razorblade, just don't cut the metal. It gets off the black deposits.. of whatever that is on there.
Also you can scrape the face of the rotors with a razorblade, just don't cut the metal. It gets off the black deposits.. of whatever that is on there.
#16
i am legendary
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Yes you can use n/a rotors in your turbo engine. That being said, though, you need to pay attention to fuel and timing much more than with the TII rotors, obviously. Boost levels overall should be lower generally, especially with stock ecu, but higher comp + lower boost will make the same power as lower comp + higher boost, so it's all relative.
#18
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Depends on mileage, condition, turbo or n/a, series, etc. Also depends on the seller. Some people wont sell housings for less than 100-150 a piece, some even more. Occasionally you can find some good used housings for a good price, but its hard. Just search the for sale section and Ebay. Usually Ebay has cheaper housings from what I've seen, but they don't have them as often or as much, and sometimes its hard to tell the real condition of them.
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