All I have to say is put the sway bars back on. I have the RB sways and they are heavy as hell but they help in cornering and thats what you want in a NA because you are not blowing anyone away in the straights.

 

dude not you again

 

Congrats on the weight reduction! The biggest benefit is that the higher HP to weight ratio means more performance from mods. Where exhaust might shave a few tenths from the 1/4 mile on a 2700 pound FC, you could shave another tenth on top of that. I'm sure ya knew that though. I agree that the sway bar should be reinstalled, and the bumper support. BTW...for anyone with a sunroof, removing it is a BIG reduction IMO. I pulled mine completely, and am having a custom cut piece of tinted lexan sealed into where the sunroof used to be. So now I have a non-movable moon roof. I like the look better, and shaved about 30 pounds. I may start selling these soon to the forum members.

-Joe

 

WOW - Nice! Beautiful weight distribution!

Take out the jack, steel donut - and you'd be pretty darned close to 50/50 weight distribution!

 

why did skunks bump this with the same crap he posted once already that got closed?

 

Integra88: After you removed the tar from the bottom, did you fill/cover those small holes that run down the middle of the floorboards? If so, how?

 

Now, why in god's name would you remove the seatbelts, thats only stupid, everybody know's that they are there so that you don't slide in the seat while cornering!!!

 

Stock brake ducts are functonal,.. they direct air to the center of the rotor,.. vented rotors work like cetfugal pumps, so that cool air cools the rotor...

 

Here's a one year update on the car: It weighs about 2375 now in race trim. Since I made the first list at the beginning of the thread, I have re-installed the rear anti sway bar and then swapped in the beefier GXL bar to get some neutrality back. When I dial in my couple degrees of front negative camber at the track, it actually gets nicely tail happy in a controllable way, which makes corner rotation easier on the typically tight autox courses.

Other items removed:

Air pump ~ 7
Rear bin structures ~ 10
Stock manifold in favor of RB collected header ~ 20
Speaker tower structures ~ 5
Speaker covers ~ 1


And when I'm drag racing or autocrossing I remove my spare, jack, large sound deadening mat under the rear carpet and that's worth about 50lbs or more. With me in the car with a quarter tank of gas and ready to race, the car is probably under 2500lbs.

To anyone who doesn't like my choice in weight removal, we already know that I took a walk on the wild side of weight reduction and that most of what I did would not be desireable to most of u. So get over it and go install a bigger sub or amp, or maybe some 18" playa chromies to ur bloated FC's. This one's for go only, and it's not for everyone.

One other thing. No one has tested my FC's crash rating w/o the front bumper reinforcement. They see bright yello and avoid.

 

After you removed the tar from the bottom, did you fill/cover those small holes that run down the middle of the floorboards? If so, how?

 

Any pictures of this? I have been wondering what this type of thing might look like...

 

Here's my take on it. This isn't a hostile response so please don't take it that way. I see no issues what so ever with this much lightening if it is an autocross car only. Every liitle bit helps. I personally wouldn't be comfortable or safe driving it as a street car on the roads. I have never been in an accident either but I might one day. You can never tell what will happen. Many accidents involve at least one person who didn't even see it coming or know what happened until after it was over with. I had a friend killed last month by a drunk driver. She didn't see a thing. Just bang.

The front bumper does far more than just tie the two frame rails together. It is made out of fiberglass on purpose. This isn't to save weight since it is ungodly heavy. It is fiberglass to shread easier in an impact. This dissipates energy in the process. Look at how carbon fiber works on race cars in an impact. Obviously this leaves alot to be desired in relation to carbon fiber but it does serve a purpose. The heavy bar under the dash serves an important purpose too. It holds the dash together in an impact an also gives lateral support across the passenger comparment from a side impact. The only times I would personally remove these items is if I were replacing them with a full roll cage. It isn't a street car anymore which is the whole point. I do agree with the may as well remove the seatbelts and insurance statement. They are right in line with the removal of other safety equipment.

It is your car and I applaud you for wanting to go faster and making it lighter. I am just concerned for your safety in a crash incase it ever happens. I personally don't feel that I should cut into my everyday personal safety just to go a few tenths faster on an autocross track once or twice a month. A wreck happens to almost everyone at some point in time. It isn't a matter of if but when that should be of concern. Again its your car and I fully respect that but I'd rather see you a little slower than dead. Dead is alot slower.

 

There were a few drain holes that I filled with silicone sealant. I painted over my chisel scratches with rustoleum paint. Some holes required me to seal them with the top of a tin can (the cutout part) using silicone.

 

Point taken, and thanx for the concern.

 

Cause he's a dumbfuck.

That 1700# car basically has no drivetrain from the transmission back.
It also has no windshield, and it's missing a lot of small parts.
This weight is also with no driver.
It is also dry weight with almost no fluids in it.
Remember, 6 lbs / gallon makes up a lot of weight; the car does run a dedicated fuel cell, so it's not going to be the full stock OEM gas tank.
As I have said before, the target weight is 2100#, which is nothing spectacular.

2420 is not bad.
We got a race-weight S5 turbo to scale at 2500 to 2510 (no driver), so it's pretty damn close!


-Ted