thats a cool pic though.

 

Yes, he is the master at cool pics of random things... he does that a lot.

 

When tofuball and I first megasquirted his car, we were using a GM HEI module rigged up to a heatsink mounted to the side of a gutted 2nd gen ignitor, with the HEI module providing the tach signal and firing the coil...

With that simple setup, it still took us like 4 or 5 days to get it started... then I realized I did the grounds wrong.... once we fixed that problem the car ran great!

My point is, we'll get your engine running... it might take a little while to debug/fix, but it'll run. I'm glad we didn't give up on tofuball's car... because we didn't, people can now have working leading/trailing code with a stock CAS with the megasquirt.... once they debug their installs.

 

lol, or the owners don't knock wires off the board!

 

Yah probably... what can I say, I'm dumb? Somehow the wire got caught when I was putting the case back together and it popped out of the board. However, this is the wire I think was already loose when I was inspecting them before, but it was still holding in. The funny thing is that there was NO resistance when I was putting the case on, meaning I was NOT forcing the case on, it was sliding smoothly without problem. Then all of a sudden the wire popped out of the board.

Either way, if there wasn't a problem with the wiring inside the MS before, there is now. I guess it'll be going back to muythaibxr either way now, since I possibly messed it up more than it might've been before

Hopefully Ken can fix that and then check to see if anything else might be wrong, troubleshoot it, confirm it is good, and send it back to me.

It'll run eventually, right? Gotta stay optimistic!

 

haha, it'll definitely run... I'm willing to bet that wire was loose before... although I do stress test them physically before I ship them.. (I yank on the wires and then test with the CAS again to make sure it works...)

Oh well, I'll take care of the shipping for you, fix it, test it, and overnight it back... you should have it back 2-3 days after I get it. Ship it overnight too, I'll send you a check for the cost when I ship it back.

But yeah, it sounds like you did everything else right... so it'll definitely run!

Ken

 

PM or IM me your address (can't seem to find the original package from you) and I'll get it on its way to you Monday most likely.

Do you have a preference on shipping company? USPS, UPS, DHL (no FedEx please, I've had some awful experiences with them, don't want to go into detail)? I don't care, whatever you prefer.

 

Update time eh?

Well since people keep asking me wtf is going on, I figured I'd let you all know. Especially because I finally made some progress!!

Today, for the first time, my cranking RPMs are correct... I couldn't believe it when I saw it, I was so happy. They are consistent (no jumping/fluctuations) and they are right around where they should be for the battery voltage I have. This was after a complete redo of the grounding system for the CAS mesh cover for the wiring, the MS main ground, and a few other misc grounds. After that, I plugged in my laptop and cranked it over (with injector fuses pulled and plug wires out) and it was showing correct RPMs! Ahhh finally.

But, the engine has enormous amounts of fuel inside of it from all the cranking and no spark. I was pretty stupid and kept troubleshooting with the injector fuses in, so fuel just kept getting dumped in the engine. Long story short I'm trying to work out all the fuel currently, plus my battery voltage is pretty low. The battery is being charged as I type this and I'm going to keep cranking the engine with the plugs pulled and injector fuses out to get all the fuel out.

Tomorrow I'm insanely busy with me and my gf's anniversary and a guest lecture I have to go to for school, so nothing will happy tomorrow. But Saturday looks like it's wide open and will be the day to see if it fires up. Wish me luck!

 

Good luck!

Have fun with your girlfriend!

Hope to see a neato video .

 

awwwww yeaaah!! haha, this will be sweeet

hey just another question: you have the RB 130psi oil regulator, and you did the e-shaft oil jet modification? on the mazda performance and RB websites, they say it's not recommended for street use. but i just can't figure out why??
someone has told me that possibly the internals get less oil at idle and low engine speeds?

in any case just wondering if you knew about this and why you decided to do it anyways.

 

Yah I knew about this, but between the e-shaft oil jet mod, MFR racing rotor bearings, multi/3-window bearings for my state gears, and 10k+ rpm redline. It was mainly because I'll be tapping 10k rpms that I decided on it

 

heh, yes that is true

so reduce oil at idle and low RPMs is the reason for them not recommending it?

 

The oil jet mod... I can't think of a single reason why its ever been done.

Why would you want to increase the cooling of the rotor face in the lower rpms, when it definitely does not need it, and decrease the cooling in the upper rpms, when the rotor does need it? This only seems detrimental to me.

 

Other builders disagree with you.

I've heard from many many builders that this is a good idea for high rpm motors for increased oil flow. I realize some people do this also in stock redline fc's for greater flow in the upper rpm's, but personally it was because I want to go to 10k.

 

No. The aftermarket jets are SMALLER than stock.
The stock oil jets work on oil pressure and centrifugal force to open them. They are basically their own oil-pressure regulators that open based on oil pressure AND engine rpm... simple ball-and-spring divices inline with a jet. They remain almost closed at low rpms, when the rotor is cooled by the gas/air charge. As rpms increase, the oil pressure/centrifugal force forces the ball and spring outwards, and oil flows into the rotor. The higher the revs, the higher the flow.

The aftermarket remove the ball and spring, and reduces the total jet size. The aftermarket jets flow at all rpms, so you get flow when you don't want it (low rpms), low oil pressure under low rpms, and less flow when you really want it (upper rpms).

 

And once again many people disagree with you.

So I guess it's personal preference and belief.

 

I know other builders do it. They do it b/c mazdacomp has it listed under its mod list.

I would love to know why its done. (I would also like to know why you would do a mod that you don't know what it will do to the engine).
Would you not want better oil cooling at 10,000K? I do. I left the jets in in my PP.

 

What emperical data to you have to support that this is an actual positive modification?
Have you witnessed the effects on running engines? I have. I've built engines both with an without oil jet modifications. I have yet to see any positive effects from it while monitoring oil temps, air fuel ratios, coolant temps, oil pressure, and EGT's.

Just because other people do it doesn't mean its a good idea.

If someone can explain to me at least the theory behind reducing rotor cooling, I will glady listen. Until then, I stand by my point.

 

Where is your data? As far as I can see it is only what you say. Show me some proof I can see, otherwise your opinion means nothing to me either, according to your logic.

All that I've read on nopistons.com about the mod continues to say that it increases flow in the mid and high rpm range (yes idle/low rpm range too, but not too many people care about that) for better cooling at mid and high ranges.

So why should I believe you over them? Or them over you? Or anyone? According to your logic it is all talk. Therefore I will believe what the majority says unless you want to prove it to me.

You also seem to quote an awful lot of experiences that you've had in your endless modifications and building that disagree with lots of other people and builders. You have also claimed that you will post pictures for some of these things you claim many times in the past, yet I've never seen any of this. So once again, why should I believe you over them?

Anyways, believe what you want, but I am done arguing about this.

 

What emperical data do you have to proove otherwise? None of the things you have listed have any real correlation to "rotor temps".

This is something I have no experience in, but a smaller jet opening doesn't necessarilly mean it will flow less at higher RPM. The stock jet may be larger, but even you say there's a mechanical "ball and spring" device in there that would interfere with oil flow. Maybe it's smaller to regulate the amount of oil to flow at high rpm to a realistic amount as an unhindered jet the stock sizing might flow too much.

Again, I don't know...just an idea...but I do know that a 3/4" water hose will flow more water than a 1" water hose with my finger in it.

 

The oil jet mod is miniscule in the grand scheme of things. Real rotary satisfaction is all about scavenging (porting or with a compressor), intake temps, air fuel ratio and ignition timing.

Given the fact that I don't know anything about building 10k rpm rotary engines, I'd probably do the oil mod just because other successful 10k rpm rotary builders have done it. But then again, I'd never spend money to make the rotary spin a little faster than stock to make use of wild ports. I'd just strap a turbo or something on the side and call it a day.

But yeah, man I wish I was driving right now. Oh yeah, torque is like caffeine for the car.

 

You don't find fault in doing stuff to your car that you don't even understand?

This REDUCES oil flow to the rotors in upper rpms. Smaller jet= reduced flow.

 

Not necessarilly. Again, as you said, the stock jet may have a bigger opening but there's a machine inside it and that WILL hinder oil flow...and what is the pic showing us that's helping your argument?

 

Take the jet apart and you will see how it works. Doesn't take any harsh fluid calculations to figure out which system will flow more.

That aside, its easy to measure if you've got a spare eccentric shaft.

 

I don't think anyone is having a problem with how the jet works...you said there's a ball-and-spring device inside it, which probably works just like every other ball valve on earth.