I posted before that I get a check engine light and pull the code and its for the knock sensor. I checked the continuity between the sensor and the 2M terminal on the wiring harness, and it was ok. I've cleared the code numerous times, and it comes back whenever I boost even in the slightest bit (keeping boost to a minimum because of engine break in), such as when going up a hill. I don't actually hear any knocking type noise. The timing is set to normal as far as I can tell(no timing gun, just used CAS), and I am running 91 octance gas. Anyone think my engine is possibly knocking, or could it be a bad knock sensor? Does the ECU throw a code if the car knocks, or just if there is a problem communicating with the sensor?

Oh, also, Is knocking the same thing as detonation, or are they different?

 

Knocking is more of a valvetrain thing..Its basically the same as detonation.

Check your timing man!

 

Ok. Ill restab the CAS tomorrow. is there a chance that it can mess itself up? Like come loose internally?

 

Not really, but putting the CAS in is only good for a ballpark timing figure. You really need to get a light on it to set the timing correctly.

 

Ok, I'll head to the kragen tomorrow. Rotaries don't need some special timing light right? I can just get your basic inductive gun?

 

Yup.. I have a plain jane inductive timing light. Doesnt even have a dial advance.

Jarrett

 

Update-

Ok, so today I went and bought myself a timing light, and came home and checked my timing. I jumpered the intial set connector, hooked up the gun and started it up (after letting it warm up). I found out the yellow timing mark was way ahead of where it should be (eep ). I adjusted it back to normal and took the car for a drive. The minute I accelerated even slightly quickly, the check engine light came back on again. So I brought it back home yet again, cleared the code, and checked the timing. Turns out it wasn't on the spot that it shoulda been. This time I pulled the CAS, restabbed it, and then checked the timing (with intial set connector jumpered). I got it all set and then pulled the intial connector and tested it again just for the hell of it. It was in a slightly different position, but that may have been because of the difference in RPMs. So I held the light on and revved the engine a few times and let it come back. Most of the time the yellow would never be visible again until I turned off the light and turned it back on, then it was right where it should be (sound like a problem with the light?). So then I took it for a drive again and got the same damn check engine light!! Argh. What could be causing it? Why does my timing change after driving it???? Could the engine only having 450 miles on it have anything to do with it?

Sorry for the long post, thanks for the help.

 

I got another theory of what may be causing it. Can anyone explain to me what the knock sensor physically senses that makes it go off? Is it something like excess noise, or vibrations, or is it some sort of pressure against the sensor itself?

 

^^^

 

I got the same ******* problem, it's probably just a bad knock sensor.......try getting a new/used one, I think I am going to look into getting one.

 

it senses a high pitched vibration that detonation gives off. why dont you just do the test (via the fsm) where you have your car running, and you tap the engine with a hammer while watching it with a timing light. if the timing retards as a result of tapping the engine with a hammer, then the sensor is good.

the fsm says to tap the engine on the front engine hoist bracket, but i'd tap it lightly on one of the rotor housings or irons near the sparkplugs.