My car dont start
#1
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My car dont start
so ok i want know why my spark plug dont do fire and i start the car have gaz and the pump but my fire in my spark plug dont work and the distributor dosnt have juice for work and my coil is ok i dunno why i need some help
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I'm going to assume he's from Quebec.
He wants to know why his spark plugs aren't firing. When he goes to start the car he's getting good gas flow, just no spark.
He wants to know why his spark plugs aren't firing. When he goes to start the car he's getting good gas flow, just no spark.
#5
I have the same problem with the plugs not firing at times. Have replaced the spark plug wires and the plugs but it still does it. Does anyone else have the same problem? Mazda dealer cannot find the problem - or they just dont want to take the time to help.
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#9
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You guys are bad, man, lol...
Check for the 12 volts DC from the main relay at the black/yellow wires, one at the leading coil's connector, and two at the trailing coils' connector, with key on...
Pull the black plastic covers from the coils, remove at least one of those small terminals from the coil, and read out the coils with a meter set to resistance, on the 1 ohms scale (zero the meter first, if applicable). Should have less than 1 ohm in each coil.
Gain access to the ECU, below the passenger side carpet. Use the link provided to determine which pins are your 4 CAS inputs. Read each pin to ground, while cranking. You should get voltage (it will be small, but it will be something other than 0v if the CAS coils & wiring are good).
Make sure your rotor housings' spark plug threads are clean, this is the ground, so to speak, for the plugs...
If all of the above is good, get back with me & I'll dig a little deeper into the schematics for you
Check for the 12 volts DC from the main relay at the black/yellow wires, one at the leading coil's connector, and two at the trailing coils' connector, with key on...
Pull the black plastic covers from the coils, remove at least one of those small terminals from the coil, and read out the coils with a meter set to resistance, on the 1 ohms scale (zero the meter first, if applicable). Should have less than 1 ohm in each coil.
Gain access to the ECU, below the passenger side carpet. Use the link provided to determine which pins are your 4 CAS inputs. Read each pin to ground, while cranking. You should get voltage (it will be small, but it will be something other than 0v if the CAS coils & wiring are good).
Make sure your rotor housings' spark plug threads are clean, this is the ground, so to speak, for the plugs...
If all of the above is good, get back with me & I'll dig a little deeper into the schematics for you
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#11
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Well, I actually got the same problem on my TII...
the car wasn't starting by cranking, but by some mysterious reasons, we could start it by letting it roll down a hill with the ignition at ON while releasing the clutch ( we call it compression starting in french, dunno if its the same for you ).
So I sent the car to the dealer and he just didn't find anything ( like most mazda dealer working with rx-7 in quebec anyway ).
So I decided to look out by myself what were the causes of this shitty problem, and it appeared that my CAS what the problem, the resistance was something like twice the one written in the shop manual
replaced it, and then everything when fine!
the car wasn't starting by cranking, but by some mysterious reasons, we could start it by letting it roll down a hill with the ignition at ON while releasing the clutch ( we call it compression starting in french, dunno if its the same for you ).
So I sent the car to the dealer and he just didn't find anything ( like most mazda dealer working with rx-7 in quebec anyway ).
So I decided to look out by myself what were the causes of this shitty problem, and it appeared that my CAS what the problem, the resistance was something like twice the one written in the shop manual
replaced it, and then everything when fine!
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