Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

I am not totally sure if my ports are opening. Ive read other threads saying to put grease on the rods and go for a spirited drive and tried that. The grease moved a little, but it could also be that its just inches from the manifold and melted. I cant push the actuator rods down, but I dont know if this means theyre stuck or not. The only thing that boggles me is that when I rev it past 4k up to redline, there doesnt seem to be a loss in power. I have never driven anyone elses RX-7 so it may be that I just dont know what Im missing. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

There should not be a loss in power at 4K. Your car should pull harder the higher you rev.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

well, I would first disconnect the actuators from the sleeves and then make sure the sleeves themsleves are free.

If their free, wire them shut and take it for a drive. If it feels the same your actuators are either sticking/leaking or not getting their proper pressure.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

I disconnected the hose from the actuator to the cat and took it for a drive. I didnt feel a whole lot different. I redlined it from first and shifted into second and it didnt chirp the tires, but that didnt really concern me since i warmed them up pretty well when i launched first. Im not totally sure if i felt a difference up high, might have just been wishful thinking. The only thing that makes me think my ports arent opening is that the actuator rod is stiff as a doorknob. When people wire the ports open, do they wire the actual actuator or what? Sorry for all the noob questions, I just want my car to perform at its potential.

dopefishlives

The actuators should be movable by hand, if they are too resistive they are stuck and should be removed, cleaned and reinstalled.

Our's are stuck shut and wont actuate by hand, I'm going to be disassembling to the bare block anyways so it wasnt a big deal. The 6 port idea is quite nice and I think it'd still offer a great benifit with a single turbo setup to offer decent low-end until spool and then open up.

BlackN/A

Your car should chrip third gear when you really get on it. If not something is probly wrong. The actuators should be able to be pressed in by hand as you've already read and you should hear air moving as the plunger moves up and down. That's only if they're off the car though (two 10mm nuts, easy). The sleeves should also be easily rotatable also.

TheAnalogKiddd

iTrader: (2)

I know what you mean, I just picked up an 86 sport and I feel like I'm in the same boat. I'm still trying to understand how the whole system works, what the sleeves are, what it looks like under the actuator. etc. I was messing with one the actuators/rods today and couldn't get ANYTHING to move. And I took off the two 10mm bolts and couldn't remove the actuator either.. it's stuck. I guess that means they aren't opening but I can't believe it. The car still has a cat/airpump/emissions/etc and feels quick! I'd be thrilled if there was more power lurking around under there. From what I've gathered searching here and there is a plethora of info on this subject.. if yours are stuck you won't feel a power loss after 4k.. the power available, what you're feeling, is what it is. But if you manage to get the ports open then there will be even more power! Good luck.

beamer242

do not judge if something is wrong or not by if you can chirp your tires or not. that is not a good judgement. if you have an old worn out clutch you wont chirp. i have a rebuilt streetported motor with poly motor and tranny mounts with a stage 1 clutch and an 11lb flywheel and i dont chirp it in 3rd. i could if i really over reved it in 3rd, but that would be a waste and i would lose speed.

if you try and move them by hand and they dont move freely then they are stuck and need to be cleaned that is it.

Brian

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for all the info guys. Looks like its time to take them off for a good cleaning.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Ah, my actuators were not stuck to begin with. Neither were the butterfly valves. There is reason my actuators would not open by hand (the one closest to the firewall was the only one i could get my fat fingers too without removing the intake snorkel.)

After removing both actuators, I found that the front actuator had a plastic "link" on the end of the rod that the back actuator did not have. Without this "link" the sleeve was held halfway open. Im guessing the little link helps the rod push and pull the sleeve lever around because it allows for a pivot. I am also guessing that both actuators should have this link and that a previous owner removed it.

I tried making a makeshift link by cutting, drilling, and grinding down to size 2 pieces of plastic and using a cut down nail with an O-ring as a cotter pin. (improvising) My limiting maching skills proved correct and this was a failed attempt.

So what Im wanting to know is do both actuators have this black plastic "link"? and Where can I get one if I need it?

I hope all my rambling wasnt too confusing guys. Thanks