2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

Muffler, Break Fluid, Oil Pressure?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-21-01, 09:22 PM
  #1  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
Gefunk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Home: Maine / College: Greensboro NC
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Muffler, Break Fluid, Oil Pressure?

Ok the smoke eminating from the car is still pissing me off. Could it be because a little anti freeze or water is seeping through to the rotors from the housing? This would cause white fumes for seconds however; I am not even sure if that is done on rotary engines.
Another thing I need to know is a good name brand brake fluid since mine is fairly low. Any ideas are good because I am really lost when it comes to this subject.
Finally, where should your oil pressure be when the car is just started/idling/and going? What would cause it to be low or high? Well thanks for the help
Old 11-21-01, 11:26 PM
  #2  
Full Member

 
Gab88na's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Blainville QC Canada
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
the oil pressure sender likes to indicate false reading

its pretty inacurate

for the smoking thing
ask somebody to stay behing the car and check what it smells like
if its coolant its maybe the stupid sub-zero thing (was bad on my car but could be worse like housing seals)

i use STP brake fluid
works fine
Old 11-22-01, 06:12 AM
  #3  
HAILERS

 
HAILERS's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
64 to 78 psi for a 88model per the factory service manual at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ion_system.pdf you'll find it under lubrication. Thats hot oil at 3000 rpm. But thats not what you asked. Cold it could very well be in the high 90's and idle in the 50's, depending on the rpm. Use the factory figures if you want to get a baseline on what the oil pressure should be. Also, when you download the fsm above, you will see that the mazda folk do not use that gauge in your car when they check oil pressure. They put a mechanical gauge on the car. So much for the myth of the electrical being more accurate. Frankly speaking, Gab88 is perfectly right about the gauge in your car. Buy yourself one of those mechanical aftermarket gauges down at PepBoys and hook it up for a more realistic reading. Don't have to leave it connected to the car forever. Of course we're talking about your gauge in your car. My gauge reads just perfect in my car. Of the five sending units laying around I found the one that reads high enought to give me warm fuzzys(humor, as in joke).
Old 11-24-01, 12:14 AM
  #4  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
Gefunk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Home: Maine / College: Greensboro NC
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok thanks for the info on the break fluid. I am going to go somewhere and get some when I feel like it (snowing out and that car isn't going to be run in the snow). The fumes are a blue when I am at idle and they smell quite like gas (normal). However, when I get on it the fumes turn white and have no smell at all. So I am lost at what it could be.
I have pretty much broken down most of the car and understand most of it. However, I am still baffled at the 02 sensor. I just don't know what this does. Well any help would be good help. Thanks again.
Old 11-24-01, 07:45 AM
  #5  
HAILERS

 
HAILERS's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Go to this site http://autometer.com/hp/index.html go to High Performance, then tech tips and faq, then air/fuel ratio meters. There you will find a good description. Just note that the o2 sensor does not work at idle and above idle it does work in something callec *closed loop operation* but under full throttle falls out of closed loop. ECU uses it when in closed loop to deliver optimum air/fuel ratio. If not functioning, the car will waste gas when in closed loop mode. Also try http://www.howstuffworks.com/question257.htm type in oxygen sensors and read. Now about your smoke....if your not losing coolant, then its oil and most likely the oil control rings which means a complete tear down of the motor which if you do it yourself will cost at a minimum 500-700 bucks. Go to http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/ and download the section on *Engine* and look around for the oil control rings. OOps...earlier on I said the o2 does not work at idle, I meant it is not in the loop so it does not effect at idle, the fuel delivery.

Last edited by HAILERS; 11-24-01 at 07:57 AM.
Old 11-24-01, 11:13 AM
  #6  
Senior Member

Thread Starter
 
Gefunk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Home: Maine / College: Greensboro NC
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok I keep shying away from the motor itself because I used to (still do) own a motorcycle that has a rotary. The oil rings on that are bad and it hardly starts. And when it does it plumes white smoke and runs realllllllyyyy bad. Wouldn't this happen on the 7? I believe there is something else like an oil pump problem. Because if I fix the damn motor and havn't totally fixed the problem than it will just happen again. Smart hey? By the way I didn't find anything on *engine* on that site.
Old 11-26-01, 07:18 PM
  #7  
HAILERS

 
HAILERS's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
http://www.fc3s.org/ Go to this site and look for the 88 factory manual. Download the manual. Its free. Go to Engine in the manual and read if you want. Thats what I was trying to do with the http://www.iluvmyrx7.com, but that site seens to have gone **** up on us
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Snoopy FD
Build Threads
25
12-08-15 01:45 PM
andyvideopro
General Rotary Tech Support
3
08-20-15 10:55 AM



Quick Reply: Muffler, Break Fluid, Oil Pressure?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:02 PM.