Motor Mounts?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Motor Mounts?
I've had this problem going on for awhile, and still can't seem to nail it down.
Basically, at idle the engine shakes to a moderate degree. I've checked the compression - it's good. Checked idle, a/f mixture, vac leaks, loose wires... anything that could give it a lumpy idle. Nothing. Besides it actually idles rock steady around 850. No sputtering at all.
Here's the deal tho. I can put my hand on top of the intake and press down and very nearly stop the engine from shaking. So I'm suspecting a loose motor mount. My question is, how can I check it and do I need anything more than a socket wrench to fix it?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Basically, at idle the engine shakes to a moderate degree. I've checked the compression - it's good. Checked idle, a/f mixture, vac leaks, loose wires... anything that could give it a lumpy idle. Nothing. Besides it actually idles rock steady around 850. No sputtering at all.
Here's the deal tho. I can put my hand on top of the intake and press down and very nearly stop the engine from shaking. So I'm suspecting a loose motor mount. My question is, how can I check it and do I need anything more than a socket wrench to fix it?
Thanks in advance for any help.
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Grab hold of the engine and shake the **** out of it. :-)
Actually, the mount on the passenger side is the one that usually goes. Go to the drivers side and try to pull the engine towards you. The mount usually severs itself from the cup it sits in, and the engine can be lifted away from the mount.
At 190, 000, they probably both need replacing. You can substitute the convertable mounts for the standard ones if you want stiffer mounts. they're like 30 or 40 bucks each.
ALSO, you might want to check the tranny mount. They could also cause engine vibration.
To change them, your going to need somthing to lift the engine slightly. Other than that, all you need is some wrenches. (12 mm, I think)
Actually, the mount on the passenger side is the one that usually goes. Go to the drivers side and try to pull the engine towards you. The mount usually severs itself from the cup it sits in, and the engine can be lifted away from the mount.
At 190, 000, they probably both need replacing. You can substitute the convertable mounts for the standard ones if you want stiffer mounts. they're like 30 or 40 bucks each.
ALSO, you might want to check the tranny mount. They could also cause engine vibration.
To change them, your going to need somthing to lift the engine slightly. Other than that, all you need is some wrenches. (12 mm, I think)
Last edited by Mark S; 02-15-02 at 11:05 AM.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The engine mounts were replaced by the previous owner at 150K, they still look good, but I haven't crawled under the car yet to give 'em a close look.
Tried your suggestion, Mark. The motor doesn't seem to move noticeably, meaning I can't shake the **** out of it.
I've gotta have the car up on jackstands today anyway for an oil change.. I'll take a look again at the mounts. Can you tighten them from the bottom or the top? Hard to tell just by looking under the hood.
Tried your suggestion, Mark. The motor doesn't seem to move noticeably, meaning I can't shake the **** out of it.
I've gotta have the car up on jackstands today anyway for an oil change.. I'll take a look again at the mounts. Can you tighten them from the bottom or the top? Hard to tell just by looking under the hood.
#5
You can get upgraded mounts from Mazdacomp. $20.00 each, $10.00 each for the Y block tranny mounts. Made a huge difference in the feel of the car. Shifter does not move around any more.
Todd
I wrote a review in the parts review section
Todd
I wrote a review in the parts review section
#6
You shouldn't have to tighten anything unless the previous install job was crappy. You can try using a pry bar and see how much free-play it has; sometimes it can even reveal a broken mt as it did mine. The replaced broken tranny mt made a world of a difference in my previous automatic rex, for the way it idled and shifted. Now, I just drive conservatively overly bumps and railroad tracks.
#7
SOLD THE RX-7!
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got the mazda comp motor mounts, they are great. $22.75 each
do you have to pull the tranny out to do those y ones? I was planing on doing them next month.
do you have to pull the tranny out to do those y ones? I was planing on doing them next month.
Trending Topics
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update: The driver's side mount was maybe 1/4 turn loose. I torqued both down for g/p and checked the trans mount - it was good. It didn't totally fix the shaking problem tho. Think I'm gonna go with a RB torque brace and be done with it.
Jim
Jim
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Omaha,Nebraska,USA
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HOW do you find anything on mazdamotorsports.com ? They don't have motor mounts for my 86 listed anywhere! I go and do a search and NOTHING am I doing the wrong type of search here?
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Omaha,Nebraska,USA
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is the "Y block" tranny mounts same as the tranny crossmember?
Isn't there only the 1 crossmember mount, and then mounting to the engine for the tranny ? or are there some hidden mounts that are hard to find? Book only shows the crossmember.. So what is this "Y block" mounts ?
Thank you
Isn't there only the 1 crossmember mount, and then mounting to the engine for the tranny ? or are there some hidden mounts that are hard to find? Book only shows the crossmember.. So what is this "Y block" mounts ?
Thank you