well firs of all...

getting my GTU towed (was 200k miles and running got me to love rx7s more)
junking my 10thAE(originally the first project car)
buiding a track car
going single on my RE
rewiring my whole chassis harness

 

The ol' "convert your 1988 vert to a turbo cobalt SS" mod.

Pricey as hell.

I should have kept the former while still sticking with the latter. I'll be back in the game one day.

 

For me, so far, getting a car that had half the emissions stuff poorly removed. Then removing the rest of it and still having a not running car

There will be more though I'm sure.

 

What do you do if you are using the IAC pins for a 2nd VR?

 

Use the spare pins for the BAC...Or the FIDLE.

 

Well I guess my next post in this thread will be

-TB Mod (Including dashpot, cold start cam, and BAC)
- Desleaving and opening up the 5th and 6 ports.

Because that is what I am currently working on lol

 

True, but not worth the effort. Have you used/tuned this MS function at all,curious to hear how it works compared to the mechanical dashpot ?

 

1. paying $400 for the greddy profec II boost controller.. what a POS
2. removing A/C, removing thermowax (prev owner)
3. trying to make 300+ whp with rtek 2.1, went haltech and never looked back

 

I hadn't heard about this, but seems a bit overkill... I imagine it would be really hard to dial in well enough so it would actually work well. I'll stick with my dashpot

 

Can you provide more info on this? Which turbo were you using? Opinions?

 

Every single mod on my current FC had been planned out and I had a lot of experience from my old FC.

I haven't regretted this yet, but I did replace my fuel filter in a very ghetto fashion. I could not pull the old fuel filter out so I ended up cutting parts of my fuel line off to get the old filter off. Now the lines are stretched to reach the filter. The car drives fine and there are no leaks, but I want to switch out my fuel lines some day.

The worst mod for my old car would probably be getting a cone air intake. I run a factory airbox right now with a K&N drop in. It runs great!

 

well for one, the AFM is not accurate at all at higher flow rates, AFRs were all over the place. didnt feel like waiting around for hte AFM elimination. its not easy to tune bigger secondaries either. also little things you cant change like tps/decel fuel cut settings, cruise control settings, etc. drivability is so much better with the haltech, definatly worth the money

 

I think it was about three weeks ago that I set this up on Snrub's car. Stock port TII, HT-18, RB exhaust, intake, MSI v. 3.0. I used the stock BAC initially for just warmup, but then switched it over to closed loop idle about three weeks ago. The car previously had the throttle body mod performed but the cold start cam was left half in place, and it was never really happy. So when I wired the 'Squirt, I stripped all of that stuff off to start fresh.

It took only a few minutes to set up closed loop idle using some settings I found on the forum as a template. The cold high idle worked well immediately, but the idle would oscillate once the car warmed up. After about an hour worth of tweaking the BAC was holding the idle at exactly 1000 RPM and the dashpot function was working pretty well. Upon hot start there is still a slight oscillation in the idle. Once started the engine jumps to 2000 RPM (I have the BAC set to open on cranking...no more flooding...) then falls to about 1200RPM where it kicks back up to about 1300, then falls down to idle. A bit more tuning would fix it, but at that point it was getting late and we had accomplished the primary goal, so we left it.

The car is a daily driver, so stuff like this just has to work.