More on my paranoia with OMP..... Got Premix?
04-25-02, 04:23 PM
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More on my paranoia with OMP..... Got Premix?
Well today I went out JUST after taking the Rex out for some "spirited" driving 
.
The same oil line in this thread had a BUBBLE in it!
Was about a 2cm long stretch of AIR in that oil line
I'm sick of this ****. This buble was JUST after driving. I'm just gonna say **** it and add PREMIX as some extra insurance
.
Anyone know a good amout to put into gas tank (yes I know to use the stuff rated for FUEL INJECTED engines)?
I've heard from 8oz. to 16oz. on a full tank.... What do you premix guys use?
.The same oil line in this thread had a BUBBLE in it!
Was about a 2cm long stretch of AIR in that oil line
I'm sick of this ****. This buble was JUST after driving. I'm just gonna say **** it and add PREMIX as some extra insurance
.Anyone know a good amout to put into gas tank (yes I know to use the stuff rated for FUEL INJECTED engines)?
I've heard from 8oz. to 16oz. on a full tank.... What do you premix guys use?
04-25-02, 04:44 PM
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W. TX chirpin Monkey
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There is a specific amount of pre-mix to use per gallon of gas. call RP at 972-530-3335 and they'll hook you up or call pettit. I think pettit still sells a kit in which it comes with a little measuring bottle, and a chart for the gallons to ounces of pre-mix. it comes with a case and a small bottle so you don't tote around some gallon jug...**** OMP .....it killed my motor.
04-25-02, 06:50 PM
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Disable the OMP and run 1oz per gallon TC-W3 approved two stroke oil. I have shopped around and the best deal is at NAPA, $3.16/qt for the Valvolene multi use 2 stroke oil in the blue bottle. Don't waste your money on the "cool" stuff, or jet ski stuff. Does the same job. Among other things, TC-W3 certifies that is it compatible with fuel injected systems, and that it has a low ash content.
~Jeremy
~Jeremy
04-25-02, 08:20 PM
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Ahhhh... 
Just went out and bought some Valvoline (Blue Bottle) Multi-Purpose 2 Cycle Oil (TC-W3 Certified).
Went to the gas station and put in 8oz. for a full tank. There was some other guy there filling up and had some STP injector cleaner that he was putting into his car. You shoulda seen the look on his face as I poured the greenish 2cycle in
.
Seems to be running just a TAD smoother. But the best part is that I have peace of mind now .
Just went out and bought some Valvoline (Blue Bottle) Multi-Purpose 2 Cycle Oil (TC-W3 Certified).
Went to the gas station and put in 8oz. for a full tank. There was some other guy there filling up and had some STP injector cleaner that he was putting into his car. You shoulda seen the look on his face as I poured the greenish 2cycle in
. Seems to be running just a TAD smoother. But the best part is that I have peace of mind now
.
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04-25-02, 10:57 PM
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W. TX chirpin Monkey
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Dude the stock OMP injects oil into the combustion chamber that is not deisgned to burn, just give some thought in your head. IMO it worked for the average Joe, but in reality it isn't the best idea. the more oil you put in, the more you also lower your octane. In a sense. So don't think that more is better. It necessarily isn't. There's a fine line. Good luck and keep on rotoring.
04-26-02, 03:51 AM
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good info here: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=premix
04-26-02, 09:49 AM
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Would an open ended oil injector line cause an intake leak? Lets say you remove the OMP and now yu have the four lines just hanging there and you don't feel like removing the intake. Could you just cut the OMP lines as close to the top as possible? Or would this lead to a leak? What if you cut off the (pressure or vacuum) running to the injectors?
04-27-02, 08:00 AM
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If you cut the lines at the oil metering pump and don't block the ends, the lines will suck i.e be a vacuum leak so to speak. If you "cut off the vacuum/pressure at the top of the injectors" the lines at the omp that you cut will still suck air. On the original not screwed with set up, the lines on top of the oil injectors are a part of the idle system whether anyone likes it or not. If you crimp the spider line at the intake, your idle will drop about fifty rpm. Same if you crimp or cutoff the *vac* hose for the fuel injector air bleeds, located just below the spider line. Crimp it and your rmps will go down about fifty rpm. So if you cut the oil injector lines or the hose on top of the oil injector, you've just created a path for unfiltered air to enter your engine. And while here, if on a non monky fucked with car, you blow into the spider line at the intake manifold, towards the engine, you will be able to blow air into the oil injector lines. Mixing sounds like a pain, but if it gives you peace of mind I guess its worth it.
04-27-02, 09:46 AM
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OK. The Valvoline blue bottle was $2.63 WITH tax. And that does ya 32oz.
Now I just got a new ENGINE (NOT a MOTOR, but let's not start that argument) so I get the 17/25mpg (just tuned it).
Assuming 17mpg, that's about 300miles/tank.
Since I use 8oz. a tank, 32oz. will do me for 1,200 miles.
Assuming I drive 10,000 miles/year..... It's only $21.92 per year.
Not THAT bad of a deal for added protection. Besides, the stock OMP just dabbles oil in there and it drips down the housings and pools on the apex unevenly. This way the oil is spread out nicely.
Now I just got a new ENGINE (NOT a MOTOR, but let's not start that argument) so I get the 17/25mpg (just tuned it).
Assuming 17mpg, that's about 300miles/tank.
Since I use 8oz. a tank, 32oz. will do me for 1,200 miles.
Assuming I drive 10,000 miles/year..... It's only $21.92 per year.
Not THAT bad of a deal for added protection. Besides, the stock OMP just dabbles oil in there and it drips down the housings and pools on the apex unevenly. This way the oil is spread out nicely.
04-27-02, 10:39 AM
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A bottle of 2 stroke oil 2.95, a new engine 1995.00, peoples look on their face as you rocket into the gas station wit your loud *** exaust and some Initial D pop playing, pouring oil in your gas tank, starting the car, seeing the smoke and taking off......priceless
Besides N/a's don't need octane, they are a lot louder depending on Horsepower, and they aren't such dogs into a corner, just learn how to drive and you can be equally as fast as a turbo on the exit of a corner
Besides N/a's don't need octane, they are a lot louder depending on Horsepower, and they aren't such dogs into a corner, just learn how to drive and you can be equally as fast as a turbo on the exit of a corner
04-27-02, 11:04 AM
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I really don't see the oil dripping and oozing. I see it being atomized and spread around. That intake stroke is sucking at that tiny hole so it should atomize a bit.
But then again 22 bucks a year isn't much.
But then again 22 bucks a year isn't much.
04-27-02, 11:13 AM
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Originally posted by RETed
I run Valvoline "Multi-Use" pre-mix or 2-cycle oil.  These are in dark blue plastic bottles easily found at any Kragen/Schucks/Checkers.
Per quart bottle, it's priced @ $2.29 each.  Per gallon, it's $7.99 each (which makes it about $2/quart).  Every few months, the gallon bottles go on sale via the Sunday insert for $6.99.  This pre-mix actually used to say "for use in...rotary engines" in the back label, but they have changed this now.
Now, I pre-mix at approximately one ounce per gallon, or 16 ounces per full tank.  It's actually a little bit richer at around 100:1, since a full tank for me is around 13-14 gallons; I pour half a quart, or 16 ounces into the gas tank before filling up at the gas station.  Conversion factor:  1 gallon = 128 ounces.  Factor in the 13-14 gallons, the premix ratio comes out to about 105:1 - 115:1.
Depending on your mileage, I fill up gas every couple of weeks.  So I go through a quart of pre-mix every 3 weeks or so.  Buying in gallon bottles (then pouring into the old quart containers) makes it pretty easy to store and dispense at the gas station.  The bottles comes with a transluscent side with graduated levels marked off at every 8 ounces.
I find it worth it.  The car runs a little "cleaner", even though I don't have any cats or emissions.  I've torn down the engine after 20k miles, and it's a LOT cleaner!  Not as much carbon build-up as with normal motor oil injection.  I find the theory behind pre-mix superior than the stock oil metering that Mazda uses.
Did all of that make any sense?
-Ted
I run Valvoline "Multi-Use" pre-mix or 2-cycle oil.  These are in dark blue plastic bottles easily found at any Kragen/Schucks/Checkers.
Per quart bottle, it's priced @ $2.29 each.  Per gallon, it's $7.99 each (which makes it about $2/quart).  Every few months, the gallon bottles go on sale via the Sunday insert for $6.99.  This pre-mix actually used to say "for use in...rotary engines" in the back label, but they have changed this now.
Now, I pre-mix at approximately one ounce per gallon, or 16 ounces per full tank.  It's actually a little bit richer at around 100:1, since a full tank for me is around 13-14 gallons; I pour half a quart, or 16 ounces into the gas tank before filling up at the gas station.  Conversion factor:  1 gallon = 128 ounces.  Factor in the 13-14 gallons, the premix ratio comes out to about 105:1 - 115:1.
Depending on your mileage, I fill up gas every couple of weeks.  So I go through a quart of pre-mix every 3 weeks or so.  Buying in gallon bottles (then pouring into the old quart containers) makes it pretty easy to store and dispense at the gas station.  The bottles comes with a transluscent side with graduated levels marked off at every 8 ounces.
I find it worth it.  The car runs a little "cleaner", even though I don't have any cats or emissions.  I've torn down the engine after 20k miles, and it's a LOT cleaner!  Not as much carbon build-up as with normal motor oil injection.  I find the theory behind pre-mix superior than the stock oil metering that Mazda uses.
Did all of that make any sense?
-Ted
Originally posted by hypntyz7
THe reason being, a) it cant hurt anything, b) it costs very little, c) its very easy to do. Ive been tearing down a LOT of core motors recently as Ive started rebuilding engines. Most every one I find had poor rotor housings. Ive noticed on every one though, there is a line around the center of the housing, directly in line with the oil injector's hole up top. WHen I inspect teh apex seals of that rotor, I find that in the center, there is a bit of a high spot as compared to the rest of the apex. This tells me that the oil injected into the engine doesnt spread out and lubricate the entire width of the housing and seal, only the center for about 2mm. A close look at any old rotor housing should reveal this.
My though tis if the 2 cycle is premixed in witht eh gas, which gets atomized pretty evenly, then its bound to cover the entire combustion surface evenly, preventing uneven wear.
THe reason being, a) it cant hurt anything, b) it costs very little, c) its very easy to do. Ive been tearing down a LOT of core motors recently as Ive started rebuilding engines. Most every one I find had poor rotor housings. Ive noticed on every one though, there is a line around the center of the housing, directly in line with the oil injector's hole up top. WHen I inspect teh apex seals of that rotor, I find that in the center, there is a bit of a high spot as compared to the rest of the apex. This tells me that the oil injected into the engine doesnt spread out and lubricate the entire width of the housing and seal, only the center for about 2mm. A close look at any old rotor housing should reveal this.
My though tis if the 2 cycle is premixed in witht eh gas, which gets atomized pretty evenly, then its bound to cover the entire combustion surface evenly, preventing uneven wear.
Last edited by dre_2ooo; 04-27-02 at 11:16 AM.
04-27-02, 12:27 PM
#24
Originally posted by dre_2ooo
Ahhhh...
Just went out and bought some Valvoline (Blue Bottle) Multi-Purpose 2 Cycle Oil (TC-W3 Certified).
Went to the gas station and put in 8oz. for a full tank. There was some other guy there filling up and had some STP injector cleaner that he was putting into his car. You shoulda seen the look on his face as I poured the greenish 2cycle in .
Seems to be running just a TAD smoother. But the best part is that I have peace of mind now .
Ahhhh...
Just went out and bought some Valvoline (Blue Bottle) Multi-Purpose 2 Cycle Oil (TC-W3 Certified).
Went to the gas station and put in 8oz. for a full tank. There was some other guy there filling up and had some STP injector cleaner that he was putting into his car. You shoulda seen the look on his face as I poured the greenish 2cycle in
. Seems to be running just a TAD smoother. But the best part is that I have peace of mind now
.
I just say its rotary and helps the motor, thats enough to throw them out in left field
04-27-02, 12:28 PM
#25
Originally posted by hIGGI
what would u use to fill place when removing oil injectors ? bolt sizes?
thanks
hIGGI
http://rx7cz.net/photos/haltech1/
what would u use to fill place when removing oil injectors ? bolt sizes?
thanks
hIGGI
http://rx7cz.net/photos/haltech1/
Id say maybe 12mmX1.25mm not sure on the 12mm part... They fit a 14mm wrench tho. these bolts were 3/4" long