Rexpelagi

Today I removed the front control arms and the bushings in the rear. I went to put on the MMR bushings I have and I noticed that the barbed end is too big to fit into the bushing without force. All of the other MMR bushings I have done slid right in, but these don't look like they will. Should I just press it on or is there something else I need to do?

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Just press em on with a press. They will be uber tight at first but the delrin is self-machining and they will break in after a bit of driving. I have the same ones, that's what the MMR guy said when I emailed him. Note that is may also take some fiddling to get everything lined up correctly on the car when you bolt them back on.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

A bunch of my MMR bushings needed a dead blow to put in. Don't put the front control arm bushings on backwards...its not fun. The rear control arms are tricky...you need to make sure you have the whole canister of the old bushings out.

TitaniumTT

Look at the control arm. You even said the most important part - the barb. If the inner diameter of the bushing was the same diameter of the OD of the barb, don't you think there would be an incredible amount of slop when the bushing itself was in place on the smaller diameter where it belongs?

Rexpelagi

Ok cool, that shouldn't be too hard. It's nice that they are so light compared to most of the stuff in the rear, easy to carry haha.

Yep, but at the same time they aren't rubber, so I wasn't sure how well they would handle just going over the barbs. The diameters looked a fair bit different. I figured that's what I was supposed to do but I just wanted to check first.

Farberio, I have the rear suspension all finished up but the bushings were a PITA to get out. Several of them took over 12 tons on a hydraulic press before they budged. I did the diff mounts, the subframe mounts, and the control arms. I'm saving the DTSS eliminator bushings to see how I like lower mileage stock DTSS units (probably a bad idea but I'm up for a go).

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Bleh DTSS is junk. It makes the car unpredictable at and over the limit because your rear toe changes as cornering load fluctuates. In theory it's good since you get more toe as load increases, but if you overstep the limit the toe change goes away and now you're WAY over the limit.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Rexpelagi - Off topic, but what size tires are you running on your Cobra wheels?

Car looks great!

Rexpelagi

The front tires are 225/45/17 and the rears are 255/40/17. The rears are bald so those will be replaced this spring. I was considering stepping up to a 275/40/17 in the rear. However, apparently a lot of tire shops around here don't want to put that size on an 8in wide wheel (despite that they will fit), and it also would probably increase understeer tendencies so I will most likely stick with 255s.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info. I saw pics of your car over on the v8Rx7 forum as well.

I picked up some 17X9 cobra wheels and am going with 235/40 in the front and running 245/45 in the rear (what the wheels came with). I still have the rotary in the car, so traction is not an issue yet.

Rexpelagi

V8RX7 forum? I'm sure I don't know what you are talking about...

That's an interesting offset front to rear, those tires are going to be a fair bit thinner sidewall-wise in the front. I'd be interested to see how well 235s work for you in the front rubbing-wise. Since the sidewall is shorter than on my 225s that might be alright, but I know for me my 225s can rub with the current suspension setup if I see enough suspension travel (this all assumes you have an FC haha). I'm going with a stiffer suspension though so that should prevent it I'd guess.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Yea I have an FC. Tokico blues and RB springs.




That is with the 245/45 fronts. It is almost undriveable. The 235/40s will be an inch shorter.