classicauto

iTrader: (3)

No one's being jerks - its quite simple. We're telling you that the pressure you're seeing in the "crankcase" is monster huge, and an engine thats running PROPERLY with no internal damage would not. Like I said - simple.


Who calimed it wouldn't cause the problem>????

As for other ideas do what I said before:

1) Fix the PCV and make sure there's no vac leaks so the thing runs as properly as it can.
2) Check for a blown out dipstick
3) If it blows out with a properly working PCV - rebuild the fragged engine.

Its very simple - as rotarygod stated there isn't a million ways you can have HUGE amounts of pressure in your pan. There's really only one way that is of considerable reasonability - worn internals.

Whether you choose to accept it or not its likely the cause. But as I said - do the PCV first, maybe it will fix the problem? Worth trying it before tearing down the keg for a rebuild anyways.

pengarufoo

Sounds like a simple matter of an overfilled oil sump...

After an oil change and clearing all the vacuum lines of oil, as well as reconnecting everything properly it should be OK.

If the oil was filled high enough that the dip stick passage terminates below the oil level it won't take much craziness to eject the stick, there's not much volume in that tube.

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

When people are talking about the pcv, are you really referring to the egr system? On an S4 you can remove the valve from the top of the center housing completely and use a block off plate. Nothing bad happens as a result. The S5's don't even have them.

drakesword

its an s5 and its the pcv although the FSM states its the purge control valve. Im going to advanced to try to get any type of pcv that i can use for the short term on the cheep.

NotTTT

rushing things takes longer and being cheap costs more.

Fix it right or leave it broken.

All the trouble shooting in the world won't mean dick if you're uncertain the problem was ever fixed in the first place.

Fix the PCV system the right way or don't do it at all. Once you're certain the PCV system is working properly, if the problems persist, be prepared to rebuild the motor again.

The problem here as I see it is you don't want to accept the fact that the mmo may have completely fragged the internals of your engine.

wvumtnbkr

Nvm

drakesword

Most of that is true but
A) Right now i dont have the money to replace the engine
B) Mazda oem valve will take 6 weeks to deliver
C) I do not like to be narrow minded and say it must be the seals right off the bat.
D) a friend of mine did make an interesting point today, its possible tht the oil pump's outlet is clogged forcing the oil backwards.

So plans for tomorrow, erm today. . .

1.) Do a compression test if the seals are bad then i will have lower compression would I not?
2.) If compression is good, drain gas 100% and replace. Then replace most likely now fouled plugs. Then reset the ECU.
3.) If the engine runs better THEN order the damn valve. I do not see a point in buying a smaller part for an engine that may or may not be blown.


My big point about my thinking the engine is not blown is the fact that it only spouted oil after 4.5k rpm. IMHO if the seals were blown as you think they are there would be pressure at all rpms. Right now when it idles badly at 1.5k there is NO pressure coming from the oil sump.

Also, one of the major leaks was not the oil filter pedistol but the oil filter itself. it developed a crack between the base and the side where it was crimped together. Replaced oil with 10w - 30 and put in a new filter. Ran the engine a bit and no apparent leaks.

On the other hand the engine seems to be producing somewhere in the range of 10 hp. Don't directly assume the engine is blown because of this, remember that there are many factors leading to an engine running properly and compression is just one of them.

Im not completely denying the fact that the engine is blown im just trying to A) keep my hopes up and B) going about this with a more scientific approach.

By following Murphy's Law that anything that can go wrong will go wrong, i still have a huge list to go over.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Not necessairily. And chances are if that were the case, the engine would be seizing up because the bearings would have no oil since it is being pumped back into the pan. So if that IS the problem, you're far worse off!!

Yes and no. Its probably a bit low, but it it runs well (compression/cranking wise) they'll probably be at the lower end of "in spec". But that doesn't mean the engine isn't burning oil/has leaky control rings.
2.) If compression is good, drain gas 100% and replace. Then replace most likely now fouled plugs. Then reset the ECU.
Hit up a yard or post here on the forum. If I lived in the same country as you I'd mail you one! Someone has one, and they're likely on the forum.


Yep, check it all out make sure you find the problem, but at this point - the most likely cause is oil control rings.

NotTTT

Call Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda, I DOUBT it'll take 6 weeks for that valve to get in. Better bet would be to start searching the forums, someone somehwere, like Classic said, has one.

If the oil pump outlet was clogged, it wouldn't be pumping backwards. That's just not possible and you would have extremely low oil pressure.

You NEED to fix the PCV system before you can diagnose further. A huge vac leak will cause a ****-poor running engine. Fix one thing before moving onto another.

Torque is the result of cylinder pressure. There is not that much cylinder pressure at low/cranking RPM's. You probably won't be able to diagnose bad oil control rings with a comp tester. Now, if a side seal was also fragged, that would be easier to see.

No one is being narrow minded here, we're just pointing out that it seems you don't want to admit the worst case is most likely the cause.

drakesword

Well good news and bad news. . .

good news
Rear rotor 98 psi all faces

bad news
Front rotor 2 psi all faces

Time for a rebuild eh?

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

Yep that would seem to verify that all your compression is going past the oil rings. It sucks but at least you know what it is.

HAILERS

The engine is broken and needs to be rebuilt. That's all there is to it. Called common sense.

NotTTT

More important now is to figure out what caused it.

Is this a turbo motor?

drakesword

oddly enough no. I might have a friend thatll' let me use his borescope to check out the internals.