Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Well. it's getting close fella's. I'm building my motor right now currently a 4-port turbo2 block 3mm seals with light/balanced rotors, large streetport. I plan on keeping her N/A for now but here's the thing.

Would a microtech be overkill on this set-up? I want to get the most power i can but still keep her N/A. The reason i'm going 4port??? just incase i would like to turbo somewhere down the road.

let me know what you guys think

-Markus

BlackIceGuitar

I'd say go for it. It allows for fine tuning, and if you do go turbo some-day, it be there for you.

$150FC

you will get lots (relatively speaking) of gains with a microtech over the stock ecu

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

and it is the best first step to go turbo, that way all you would have to worry about when you want to do it would be,
turbo, intercooler, Fuel!
that is alot better than doing jumping steps! I think it would net you more now and after! and make things soo much better not to mention the added benefit of better gas millage!

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

So you are running an NA setup and plan on doing a TII swap at a later date?

Initially, I bought my LT-8 with the desire of running It on my NA. But as the shipping time became Incredibly long, coinciding with the scoring large on a s5 J-Spec for a great deal, I opted to run It on the Turbo setup. Otherwise, I would have had It on my former NA.

I don't think It's an overkill. Not at all. A standalone EMS Is better than a stock ECU, especially one that Is 14+ yrs old In technology.

Bambam7

Don't go 4 port unless you want to loose power.
6 port setup flows better, will give you more peak power.
The 4 port will yeild slightly better spool up with the turbo because of the better low end performance, but the gain is way outweighed by the power drop above about 5000 rpm.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

that is where the turbo makes up for it, he does intend on going turbo so it makes sense to have a 4 port till he does!

Evil Aviator

It may be underkill. Does the LT8 now come in an NA model, or does it allow for rescaling the load bands now? If not, then you will only have 7 NA load bands from 30"Hg to 0"Hg, which is further reduced given the normal rotary idle of 15-20"Hg, which means only 4-5 useable load bands.

The Wolf3D works great on NA rotary engines with its stock MAP sensor, and the Haltech E11 should work well with the 1 Bar MAP sensor option. You may want to see if Scott can get you a good deal on one of these if the LT8 doesn't work.

Rotary Racer

Let me see if I can get this straight. You are using a TII block (4 port) but want to be N/A? That is fine, but what rotors are you using? If you use the TII rotors you will not get the power out of it due to the lower compression. But if you are using the N/A rotors it might be touchy if you ever turbo the car. Plus if you are going N/A what’s the need for the 3mm apex seals. What’s your overall plan for the car? Don’t want to over step my bounds but it sounds like you have not thought through on what you want to do. I would be bad to miss match parts to end up with something at the end your not happy with cause it was not planed out from the start.

But to answer your question, sounds like you are planning something (what ever that is I am not sure) that will require more than the stock EMS will handle. Sounds like an aftermarket EMS will better suit your needs.

- Dana

RX7145

iTrader: (1)

I have a E6K on my 86' engine. Much cleaner, more power, less things to go wrong, cool, and going turbo is as eazy as; just bolt the engine in and change the map! And a couple other things

Evil Aviator

Exactly. There are several people in my area running an NA 13B with a Wolf EMS with excellent results. Not only is the turbo conversion easier once the EMS is installed, but so is porting, exhaust upgrades, adding a V8, or whatever. In addition to more power, the throttle response is better, and so is the gas mileage.

Are you running the 1 Bar MAP sensor in your E6K?

RotaryRevn

YEah, what kind of rotors are you using? I was planning on building a streetported 4 port n/a motor using a TII motor with the s5 n/a rotors. Don't think you will be happy with the lower compression tII rotors.

Right now I have a s5 n/a motor in my beater car but one day it will make a nice street port for another car. What's everyones opinion on a street ported n/a motor. Keep it six port, or convert to 4 port by using the tII parts? I guess as it was explained to me was that you could port the 4 port motor much more than you could the 6 port? Anyone?

If anyone saw that one issue of DRAG magazine where they dynoed the streetported 6 port motor with the holley carb at racing beat, didn't it make around 220 n/a brake hp?

RX7145

iTrader: (1)

Yes. But I still have the 3bar that came with it

Rotary Racer

Don’t want to hijack his thread. There are just a few topics on this discussion you should be able to search for them. But I have both Drag articles on what you speak. PM me for details.

Back on the subject, people so far have been very happy with the Microtech units. I remember a while back something about the wolf having problems. Was this true?

- Dana

Evil Aviator

Oooo, using the optimized MAP sensor for now while keeping the 3 Bar sensor in ready reserve. That's evil.

Who is using a Microtech on an NA 13B?

The earlier Wolf V3 couldn't work with the stock BAC (much like the basic Microtech LT8 without the BAC option) so it didn't cold-idle well. Again, much like the basic Microtech LT8, a good tuner could tune out most of the problems in a warm climate, but those who live in a cold climate had more difficulties. The new Wolf V4 is far superior to the V3, and allows the user to set the PW so the stock BAC can be used.

White_FC

While my car was N/A I did have a microtech on it, with the stock 20psi map sensor. Had no troubles at all with part throttle -> full throttle application or anything like that, was totally smooth after a bit of tuning, obviously could have been better with more load points but my point is that I wouldn't have noticed... Except MAYBE in fuel economy..

Evil Aviator

So you had only 4 useable load bands?

White_FC

4.. yeah.. or 5..

Reason I had it on was because I was putting a turbo on soon..

But as I said I didn't have any problems.. took a bit of stuffing around to get it running lean under cruise without bucking, but I think that was just my amature approach to tuning the thing

Evil Aviator

Hehehe, you are a drag racer, aren't you?

White_FC

Pfft! As if! I much prefer the black track, with corners that is
I've only gone down the 400m's once in my entire life and pulled a very crappy 14.8s....

I usually circuit race my shitbox every month. (when its running that is! hehe)

But seriously I didn't have any probs with part throttle delivery at all, only thing I DID have a problem with was putting the vac line for the microtech on one of the secondary runners about half way up it. That caused some verrry werid things to happen like it boucning between the 5hg" map the 0hg" and the +0psi map.. I'm assuming because of the exhaust overlap..

That caused alllll sorts of strange problems.. took me a while to figure out why it was doing it aswell, so the lesson in this is put the vac line somewhere of equal pressure, the plennum worked good for me.

Evil Aviator

Yeah, you need to be careful with things like that when running a speed-density system. That's why race engines sometimes use an alpha-N system instead.

White_FC

Yeah.. Non turbo race cars at least anyway, Alpha-N style of computing AFR becomes somewhat dodgy when superchaged airflow is invovled

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

This thread got alittle more discussion than i'd guessed.

I'm getting the Lt-8 around Chrismas time. in the mean time i'll keep you guys up to date.

-Markus

Redwood

I ran a 13B n/a with a Microtech LT-8. It was definitely a little bit flimsy when it came to fine tuning (like evil said, not many load points). But it did do a decent job and ended up resulting in a great powerband, mind you after I had put tons of time into trying to tune it. In retrospect, I would've run a carb But if I had to choose a standalone again, I'd likely not go with it again (for an n/a, turbo I would). The install goes so smooth initially that you end up excited and then realize you're getting terrible mileage and leaning out at the top. My mileage never did get that good with it (around 15 mpg on a large street port 13B in a 2000 lb 1st gen).

Redwood
"Wishing I could do it again...for free this time"

White_FC

All i'm going to say is that its all in the tune...

I had mine running near perfect..
If you spend enough time mucking around with the throttle pump settings and the RPMwot/RPMcrs functions you can end up with a great driving car with reasonable fuel economy.