Napsterfreak15

I noticed the other day that these wires were cut. So i did some research and found out they lead to the omp and microtech doesn't use them.





I have been driving my car for about a year and I have never premixed. Should i be with a Microtech LT10S??

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

if you have an s4 (which i think you do), it uses a mechanical OMP (unlike the s5's)...if you have an s5 then you should probably start premixing.

Napsterfreak15

no no no engine is an s5 my shell is an s4

As I'm researching that is what everyones saying, so I'll do some more researching about it. thanks

Its a wounder i was never told be ASpec that I might want to premix. maybe its because i'm running stock turbo and intercooler. idk

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

dude if you have been running this motor with no OMP and no premix you may as well pull the motor and rebuild it...

Napsterfreak15

its funny you say that. I'm actually just starting to rebuild an extra one that i have at the moment.

I'll run premix from here on out and ill also do a compression test and then just see what happens i guess.

Man i thought something was weird when every time i checked my oil, the dip stick would show that i havent used much oil at all!!

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

Wow, that sucks. It's not really a big deal to go without premix for a little while, but a year without any combustion chamber lubrication probably did some damage.

Napsterfreak15

now the omp unhooked works at 20% efficiency so you never know. And aren't there oil injectors? or is the omp all there is?

And can i go ahead and remove the oil cooler since I'm premixing or should i keep it because the turbo gets cooled by oil through the oil cooler?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

The oil cooler is for the engine oil, not the premix. So leave it on.

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

and the OMP sends oil to the oil injectors thats what they are for..

Napsterfreak15

I appreciate everyone's input. I understand i bit more now

I just used some ryobi 2 cycle syn oil in my 7... thats all i had here at the house.

I'll be doing lots of research now and later on I'll post my engines compression results.

Napsterfreak15

Here are my compression test results.

I removed both leading spark plugs, warmed up my car just a bit and screwed in the compression checker.

Are they good and do i have good compression?

Rotor 1
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Rotor 2

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Hx2VvZ2eLL4&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Hx2VvZ2eLL4&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Heres a pick of my spark plugs too i think they look alright

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

Its pretty damn hard to tell from the videos. It did look like Rotor 1 was in the 120+ range. With rotor 2 it almost looked like the needle was spinning around completely but looked at some points like 150 which is higher then normal...

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

There's alot of good guides out there for taking compression.........it should be done on the trailing plug holes.

A-Spec Tuning

Hey Corey glad to see you got your car all together and running. Its come a long way!

About the OMP...we usually preach to customers about the premix whether they run the OMP or not. It's always nice to have a little extra protection. I thought we went over the whole Marvel Mystery Oil situation(+ other options)? If not I do apologize. I'm so used to telling everyone, especially the Microtech users.

Either way, it is definitely a good idea to make sure you run that premix. There are many brands available. Usually I tell people to grab some Marvel Mystery Oil just because its easily obtainable at most stores. A better option would be Idemitsu. It's designed for rotaries. Here is a link...

http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_210.htm

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

so you were able to do a RHD conversion but you havent figured out the OMP system? thats pretty crazy. at least your motor is still running. i wouldn't worry about it. just start premixing, can't do anything about it now.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

MMO isn't a good pre-mix lubricant, it's too thin.

and why would you cut the OMP wires before the connector? if it was functioning... you know a new OMP costs $1800 i hope. i just hate butchered wires or rather just remove the thing and put on a block off plate. it could have been sold, now the wires have to be all redone professionally. then again i'm **** about people abusing perfectly good parts, especially expensive ones. :P

the plugs and compression look fine though, i would just premix and keep at it and don't worry about the motor. although i always promote premixing, the whole thing about a motor only lasting 1k miles without any OMP or premix is BS.

Napsterfreak15

Classic auto your right I now realize its suggested I use the trailing.

Yeah I have been working hard aspec. If I was told about mystery oil I must have totally forgot about it or you told my friend who was there too idk. Marvel mystery oil doesn't even ring any bells to me.

87 T I'm learning so much threw out this whole project. I had an injector problem that i couldn't figure out which is why i went stand alone in the first place. Physically assembling parts was easy as long as i remembered where they went.

Karack I admit i saw plugs dangling and it looked annoying so i chopped em off. However the plugs on this extra engine that I'm currently taking apart are intact and so is the omp so i'm glad you told me this I appreciate it. I'll make sure it works and probably sell it on ebay or something.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Valvoline multi-purpose TCW-3 is all you'll ever need.

Napsterfreak15

macz i reviewed an old thread about premixing and how much you like that stuff I'll have to give it a try..

every heard of masterpro 2 cycle sport

i bought this today

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Maybe my computer can see the video differently, but it looked like on rotor 2, the need on the compression tester was hopping to 60 then to 120+ 2 times....

Rotor 1 looked good though, 120+ on all 3 faces.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

when you tear the motor down you may find accelerated wear on the housings. Insufficient oiling is what is making Rx-8 engines fail prematurely.

Napsterfreak15

OUCH. ya my friend has about 60,000 on his rx8 and he is on his 3rd engine. Thank god for warranty though lol.

Napsterfreak15

Ya I think your right. I'll check that rotor again to make sure

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

If the new motor they put in was manufactured in end of 08/09, he shouldn't be replacing the motor anymore. If I remember correctly, they changed the oiling system in the new renesis motors their producing.