Miata Cluster Swap
01-04-12, 10:46 PM
#51
The biggest difference will be the wiring.
The FC has a circuit board on the back that not only provides the circuit traces but also a lot of the electronics for the gauges themselves (resistors, diodes,esoteric thingamabobs, etc.). The "gauges" themselves are mostly just the windings that drive the needle.
The Miata has the more modern flexible circuit "paper" (I don't really know what to call it) that is basically just traces (flat wiring, if you will), so all the electronics are moved back to small boards attached to each gauge.
This means you'll have to bypass the FC circuit board entirely with your new gauge wiring and splice into the harness behind the connectors.
The second big issue will be the lighting.
I was able to use the Miata light diffusers and you should use the stock FC ones if you can...at the very least you'll have to drill them to fit the VDO dial mounting ears. All made more cranky because the FC subgauges share dials...i.e., the OIL/VOLT dials are actually one piece.
The gauge cluster case will require much more hacking than I had to do.
Because each Miata gauge was complete will all it's electronics, there was plenty of room available when they were pulled. Since the FC is using a "remote" electronics package, much less room is needed and much less provided.
It all could be done but the Miata swap is much easier, I think.
Of course, I don't much care for the FC layout, so I'm very biased.
01-05-12, 08:38 AM
#52
Further random musings on Jerry's project:
It would be an interesting technical/intellectual exercise to "stealth" a temp gauge into the stock FC cluster, so I spent some time looking at the parts and doing some preliminary planning.
Like many modifications, the domino effect here is more extensive than it first appears.
In fact, relatively soon I realized it would be easier to start from scratch and make a cluster that mimicked the FC layout using mostly different parts and some custom plastic work.
This pessimistic result was predicated on using a VDO gauge however.
I'm about to do some cluster work using SPI gauges which are built differently than the VDOs and may offer a better shot at what Jerry wants.
The problem with the VDOs is their electrical connections...the spade terminals are molded into the housing (most of which has to be cut away) and add about 5/8-3/4" to the depth of the unit. This is a problem in the shallow space provided in the FC housing.
The SPIs don't have quick connect electrical contacts, they come with a pigtail that you terminate yourself, as a result they are not as deep and would be easier to fit.
Unfortunately, not only is SPI out of business but the gauges are 270° sweep, so they wouldn't work with the short sweep FC dial face.
Maybe Speedhut gauges would be an option.
I'd like to see someone try this but I don't think it will be me.
It would be an interesting technical/intellectual exercise to "stealth" a temp gauge into the stock FC cluster, so I spent some time looking at the parts and doing some preliminary planning.
Like many modifications, the domino effect here is more extensive than it first appears.
In fact, relatively soon I realized it would be easier to start from scratch and make a cluster that mimicked the FC layout using mostly different parts and some custom plastic work.
This pessimistic result was predicated on using a VDO gauge however.
I'm about to do some cluster work using SPI gauges which are built differently than the VDOs and may offer a better shot at what Jerry wants.
The problem with the VDOs is their electrical connections...the spade terminals are molded into the housing (most of which has to be cut away) and add about 5/8-3/4" to the depth of the unit. This is a problem in the shallow space provided in the FC housing.
The SPIs don't have quick connect electrical contacts, they come with a pigtail that you terminate yourself, as a result they are not as deep and would be easier to fit.
Unfortunately, not only is SPI out of business but the gauges are 270° sweep, so they wouldn't work with the short sweep FC dial face.
Maybe Speedhut gauges would be an option.
I'd like to see someone try this but I don't think it will be me.
01-05-12, 05:05 PM
#53
The more I think about it, VDO probably wouldn't work anyway. Readily available VDO gauges are 52 mm, which is not the size of the "gauge" in an FC cluster. Each dial is around 46 mm or so, if I recall correctly. One 52 mm gauge may be able to be hacked and coaxed into the FC cluster, but if replacing multiple gauges, it probably would not work. The water temp is the main culprit in an FC cluster anyway. I'd never noticed too many problems with my stock oil pressure gauge in my old N/A. I had a redundant VDO in a DIN panel and it matched up comparably with the stock gauge. In a TII, as long as an FCD is not installed, the boost gauge functions fairly well, as long as you can deal with mm/HG
The options could be to get perhaps a Prosport 45 mm gauge, but that's a 270* sweep. Or completely hack the cluster enough to fit in three gauges plus the stock speedo and tach, but then I'd want to do some sort of custom plastic work to replace the stock unit that has four cutouts.
It was a nice thought, but it may not be easily done. I know I could just add a DIN panel of gauges to monitor water temp and boost, but my car won't be much outside of factory power specs to where it's some grenade waiting to blow. Plus, I hate redundancy.
I'll have to think about this some more.
The options could be to get perhaps a Prosport 45 mm gauge, but that's a 270* sweep. Or completely hack the cluster enough to fit in three gauges plus the stock speedo and tach, but then I'd want to do some sort of custom plastic work to replace the stock unit that has four cutouts.
It was a nice thought, but it may not be easily done. I know I could just add a DIN panel of gauges to monitor water temp and boost, but my car won't be much outside of factory power specs to where it's some grenade waiting to blow. Plus, I hate redundancy.
I'll have to think about this some more.
01-05-12, 06:42 PM
#54
You've given up too easily after making one faulty assumption.
The stock FC dial "hole" is @47mm but only the bezel/housing of the VDO is 52mm.
The VDO dial is actually a dead fit into the FC cutout.
You were going to remove the bezel anyway so as long as the VDO can be sited beneath the FC bezel face (the black trim with the holes thingie), it's all good.
The stock FC dial "hole" is @47mm but only the bezel/housing of the VDO is 52mm.
The VDO dial is actually a dead fit into the FC cutout.
You were going to remove the bezel anyway so as long as the VDO can be sited beneath the FC bezel face (the black trim with the holes thingie), it's all good.
01-07-12, 10:41 PM
#56
And the project lurches forward.
I found an affordable 99-00 Miata cluster on the bay, should be here next week sometime.
I struggled with the choices, excellent cases could be made for all the options but in the end, the simple black/white/red of the 99-00's seemed like the most honest match to the rest of the car.
A secondary advantage to the (relatively) plain dial design is that it's so easy to match...you could drop a VDO in there (without changing it's dial or needle) and be hard pressed to tell.
A Speedhut would be even better, if the bigger sweep wasn't too jarring.
So, now I have to begin thinking of swapping in the Karack-supplied FD VSS...and "begin" is as far as it's going to get til the snow stops and the underside of the chassis dries up a bit.
I found an affordable 99-00 Miata cluster on the bay, should be here next week sometime.
I struggled with the choices, excellent cases could be made for all the options but in the end, the simple black/white/red of the 99-00's seemed like the most honest match to the rest of the car.
A secondary advantage to the (relatively) plain dial design is that it's so easy to match...you could drop a VDO in there (without changing it's dial or needle) and be hard pressed to tell.
A Speedhut would be even better, if the bigger sweep wasn't too jarring.
So, now I have to begin thinking of swapping in the Karack-supplied FD VSS...and "begin" is as far as it's going to get til the snow stops and the underside of the chassis dries up a bit.
01-08-12, 09:02 PM
#57
The more I think about it, VDO probably wouldn't work anyway. Readily available VDO gauges are 52 mm, which is not the size of the "gauge" in an FC cluster. Each dial is around 46 mm or so, if I recall correctly. One 52 mm gauge may be able to be hacked and coaxed into the FC cluster, but if replacing multiple gauges, it probably would not work. The water temp is the main culprit in an FC cluster anyway. I'd never noticed too many problems with my stock oil pressure gauge in my old N/A. I had a redundant VDO in a DIN panel and it matched up comparably with the stock gauge. In a TII, as long as an FCD is not installed, the boost gauge functions fairly well, as long as you can deal with mm/HG
The options could be to get perhaps a Prosport 45 mm gauge, but that's a 270* sweep. Or completely hack the cluster enough to fit in three gauges plus the stock speedo and tach, but then I'd want to do some sort of custom plastic work to replace the stock unit that has four cutouts.
It was a nice thought, but it may not be easily done. I know I could just add a DIN panel of gauges to monitor water temp and boost, but my car won't be much outside of factory power specs to where it's some grenade waiting to blow. Plus, I hate redundancy.
I'll have to think about this some more.
The options could be to get perhaps a Prosport 45 mm gauge, but that's a 270* sweep. Or completely hack the cluster enough to fit in three gauges plus the stock speedo and tach, but then I'd want to do some sort of custom plastic work to replace the stock unit that has four cutouts.
It was a nice thought, but it may not be easily done. I know I could just add a DIN panel of gauges to monitor water temp and boost, but my car won't be much outside of factory power specs to where it's some grenade waiting to blow. Plus, I hate redundancy.
I'll have to think about this some more.
The S4 cluster is slightly less roomy than the S5 (hence 2 gauges) but 4 Iactually 3, because the stock fuel level gauge doesn't play well w/ others) could be secured in the s5 cluster using the stock holes. The 270* sweep looks a lot better than the stock S5 gauges, a circular gauge w/ a 60*(est.) sweep just looks dumb.
01-08-12, 09:56 PM
#58
Sharinghan, if the goal is to just get some gauges in front of your eyes- and there's nothing wrong with that- then your solution suffices.
The hard part would be to integrate the new gauges into the cluster without being as obvious as you were.
You're right about the fuel level gauge being a sticky point though.
The hard part would be to integrate the new gauges into the cluster without being as obvious as you were.
You're right about the fuel level gauge being a sticky point though.
01-09-12, 02:06 PM
#59
mattg prob nt coming back
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: OrangePark FL
Posts: 1,933
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
on behalf of the weird fuel gauge problem. i have spoken with speed hut about there 52 mm fuel gauge and that they advertise it as being programmable.
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-606.htm
i spoke with there online support (very friendly by the way
) and asked if the gauge could be programed for the fc's stock voltage (3 ohms full, 32.5 ohms for half a tank and 110 ohms for empty) the customer support guy told me that it was 100% possible and if it didnt work you could just return the gauge.
so that should take care of people thinking that the fc OEM fuel gauge cant be changed for a aftermarket gauge. now this is only by word of mouth because i have not heard of anyone actually useing the gauge but hopefully with this info someone can try it out and report back
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-606.htm
i spoke with there online support (very friendly by the way
) and asked if the gauge could be programed for the fc's stock voltage (3 ohms full, 32.5 ohms for half a tank and 110 ohms for empty) the customer support guy told me that it was 100% possible and if it didnt work you could just return the gauge.so that should take care of people thinking that the fc OEM fuel gauge cant be changed for a aftermarket gauge. now this is only by word of mouth because i have not heard of anyone actually useing the gauge but hopefully with this info someone can try it out and report back
01-12-12, 07:45 AM
#60
Much as I love (to date, only from afar, alas) Speedhut gauges, they are too pricey for my project.
The set of three- water temp, oil pressure and fuel level- is @$400...basically, about 20% of my car's total value.
VDO does not make a fuel level gauge compatible with our backwards sending units, so I'd like to move the fuel gauge out of the cluster and make a standalone housing for the stock gauge.
Still thinking about that...
Anyway, if that worked, I'd put water temp, oil pressure and voltmeter into the cluster.
VDOs would run me $85, shipped (this is gauges only, I already have sending units but if I didn't, they'd be an extra $45 or so).
The new Miata cluster should arrive today.
While waiting, I decided to completely disassemble a spare VDO voltmeter to see what the internal electrical connections looked like.
I've been snagging voltmeters from Volkswagons in the junkyard and have three.
Unfortunately they are all the old style units without through dial lighting, so I can't use 'em because they wouldn't match. They are now experimental subjects...
For the v.2 iteration of the cluster, I'd like to keep the VDO dials and needles intact- i.e., not swap in the stock Miata diffusers and dials like last time- and I'd like to make the electrical more elegant (preferably, no external wiring).
Last time I trimmed the VDO housing but kept the electrical connectors on the bottom.
This takes up a lot of space and limits options.
As I'd suspected, the male spade terminals are crimped/staked to the ABS housing...not meant to be removed.
What I wasn't expecting was that inside the housing these spades turn into round pins that slip into sockets in the gauge mechanism, nearly identical to the connectors on the back of the FC cluster.
The VDOs have one external stud/nut between the spade terminals. Some gauges use this as a ground terminal (water temp & oil press.) , some do not (volts).
Undo the nut, press on the stud and the gauge will slide right out the front of the housing (the bezel has been removed, obviously).
This changes everything!
I can now see a path to a much nicer installation...might not work but it's a start.
I wasn't expecting my efforts to yield much of interest, so I took no pictures.
I certainly will as I mod the real install.
I'm also going to reevaluate the cluster install itself. It sure would be nice to keep the Miata clear faceplate and not have to meld it to the FC bezel, so I'm going to explore other options before hacking the new cluster up.
On a more technical note, I researched ABS adhesives and assembly techniques so whatever construction does need to be done will be sturdier than my first effort (which used superglue, JB Weld and tape). I've obtained a tube of Weldon #16 solvent cement (medium body, clear) for the initial glueups.
Info on the net lead me to try making ABS "bondo" for gap filling and structural support.
Basically, it's just scrap ABS (I whittled slivers off a junk piece) dissolved in acetone. You control thickness by adding more plastic and letting it dissolve.
I have a can brewing right now.
Project should lurch back to life fairly soon now.
The set of three- water temp, oil pressure and fuel level- is @$400...basically, about 20% of my car's total value.
VDO does not make a fuel level gauge compatible with our backwards sending units, so I'd like to move the fuel gauge out of the cluster and make a standalone housing for the stock gauge.
Still thinking about that...
Anyway, if that worked, I'd put water temp, oil pressure and voltmeter into the cluster.
VDOs would run me $85, shipped (this is gauges only, I already have sending units but if I didn't, they'd be an extra $45 or so).
The new Miata cluster should arrive today.
While waiting, I decided to completely disassemble a spare VDO voltmeter to see what the internal electrical connections looked like.
I've been snagging voltmeters from Volkswagons in the junkyard and have three.
Unfortunately they are all the old style units without through dial lighting, so I can't use 'em because they wouldn't match. They are now experimental subjects...
For the v.2 iteration of the cluster, I'd like to keep the VDO dials and needles intact- i.e., not swap in the stock Miata diffusers and dials like last time- and I'd like to make the electrical more elegant (preferably, no external wiring).
Last time I trimmed the VDO housing but kept the electrical connectors on the bottom.
This takes up a lot of space and limits options.
As I'd suspected, the male spade terminals are crimped/staked to the ABS housing...not meant to be removed.
What I wasn't expecting was that inside the housing these spades turn into round pins that slip into sockets in the gauge mechanism, nearly identical to the connectors on the back of the FC cluster.
The VDOs have one external stud/nut between the spade terminals. Some gauges use this as a ground terminal (water temp & oil press.) , some do not (volts).
Undo the nut, press on the stud and the gauge will slide right out the front of the housing (the bezel has been removed, obviously).
This changes everything!
I can now see a path to a much nicer installation...might not work but it's a start.
I wasn't expecting my efforts to yield much of interest, so I took no pictures.
I certainly will as I mod the real install.
I'm also going to reevaluate the cluster install itself. It sure would be nice to keep the Miata clear faceplate and not have to meld it to the FC bezel, so I'm going to explore other options before hacking the new cluster up.
On a more technical note, I researched ABS adhesives and assembly techniques so whatever construction does need to be done will be sturdier than my first effort (which used superglue, JB Weld and tape). I've obtained a tube of Weldon #16 solvent cement (medium body, clear) for the initial glueups.
Info on the net lead me to try making ABS "bondo" for gap filling and structural support.
Basically, it's just scrap ABS (I whittled slivers off a junk piece) dissolved in acetone. You control thickness by adding more plastic and letting it dissolve.
I have a can brewing right now.
Project should lurch back to life fairly soon now.
01-12-12, 04:56 PM
#61
I always love your projects (aside from that whole V8 foolishness 
) can't wait to see the next iteration.
As far as being "obvious" I respect the desire for a more oem appearance, I just couldn't personally justify the work necessary to have "accurate" stock style gauges which still yeilds at best a vauge notion of what my engine parameters are.
I agree about the miata face plate, one of the most annoying aspects of my modification was that I had to do everything backwards because the FC faceplate does not come off without incident. Hopefully w/ your newfound plastic bonding wizardry you'll be able to overcome that little demon.
) can't wait to see the next iteration. As far as being "obvious" I respect the desire for a more oem appearance, I just couldn't personally justify the work necessary to have "accurate" stock style gauges which still yeilds at best a vauge notion of what my engine parameters are.
I agree about the miata face plate, one of the most annoying aspects of my modification was that I had to do everything backwards because the FC faceplate does not come off without incident. Hopefully w/ your newfound plastic bonding wizardry you'll be able to overcome that little demon.
01-18-12, 07:47 AM
#63
So, progress has been disappointing- apparently, just like the movie 300, all my "carnage" will be in extreme slo-mo- but things have been happening.
The two mounting tabs on the cluster bottom have been amputated.
This allows the housing to sit- almost wedged- into the perfect position.
I spent some quality time just staring at the cluster in place before deciding to approach this install from a whole 'nother angle.
This time the Miata cluster will remain completely intact, none of the FC cluster will be used.
This eliminates all the hassles of the FC bezel with it's glued in glass and the finicky job of mating the two gauge bezels and covering up the work.
This time around, all the mods will happen to the FC switch bezel...hard to explain, future pics will show what I mean.
Anyway, with the old cluster removed the next step was to install the FD VSS (vehicle speed sensor) to provide a signal to the new electronic speedo.
What a joy to remove the speedo cable for the last time...no more jacking up the car to remove the gauges.
Here's what the FD VSS and the FC cable drive look like together:
The minor difference in the housing and mounting tab are irrelevant, the FD part will bolt right on to the FC NA transmission, but note the dissimilarity of the drive gears.
Note only is the FD gear much larger but it's helix is the reverse of the FC's (I don't know how-or IF- this will affect it's signal)...it's obvious the FC gear will need transplanting.
The FD gear is keyed to a flat on the shaft and retained with a snap ring.
It comes right off.
The FC gear is pressfit onto it's shaft.
I drifted out the roll pin that retains the shaft in the housing and pulled the shaft/gear from the body:
This allowed me to chuck it up on the lathe and machine off the peening that (I thought) held the gear on.
It doesn't.
Ended up having to bore out the gear and enlarge the center hole to fit the larger FD shaft.
At this point I could have gotten all fancy (I considered machining the FD gear, with it's d-shaped center hole, down to a smooth hub and boring out the FC gear to accept it) but in the end, decided that "easy" would work just as well.
I mixed up some epoxy and glued the bastard on.
Were I to do this again, I 'd search the junkyard for a drop in replacement gear instead of modding the FC part. You never know, might get lucky...
So, now that's in and the car is back on her wheels.
Monday I spent a freezing three hours scouring the yard for connectors for the Miata cluster.
These are quite unique (see pic above) and I thought I'd hit paydirt with a 1995 626 but alas, the pin count was wrong.
I have five connectors, not a single one fits.
It might be possible to cut/paste the connectors together to make three of the right config...as I grow more desperate, that might be my only option.
Anyone considering this mod should make every attempt to source a cluster w/ pigtails included...make you life a whole lot simpler...
That dilemma will be temporarily tabled as I concentrate on installing the cluster and modding the plastic. I still have to make the two wire harness bringing the VSS signal up to the dash, but that's easy enough.
There will be work done on the cluster itself, mainly lighting and needle changes.
When I get that far, I'll let you know.
The two mounting tabs on the cluster bottom have been amputated.
This allows the housing to sit- almost wedged- into the perfect position.
I spent some quality time just staring at the cluster in place before deciding to approach this install from a whole 'nother angle.
This time the Miata cluster will remain completely intact, none of the FC cluster will be used.
This eliminates all the hassles of the FC bezel with it's glued in glass and the finicky job of mating the two gauge bezels and covering up the work.
This time around, all the mods will happen to the FC switch bezel...hard to explain, future pics will show what I mean.
Anyway, with the old cluster removed the next step was to install the FD VSS (vehicle speed sensor) to provide a signal to the new electronic speedo.
What a joy to remove the speedo cable for the last time...no more jacking up the car to remove the gauges.
Here's what the FD VSS and the FC cable drive look like together:
The minor difference in the housing and mounting tab are irrelevant, the FD part will bolt right on to the FC NA transmission, but note the dissimilarity of the drive gears.
Note only is the FD gear much larger but it's helix is the reverse of the FC's (I don't know how-or IF- this will affect it's signal)...it's obvious the FC gear will need transplanting.
The FD gear is keyed to a flat on the shaft and retained with a snap ring.
It comes right off.
The FC gear is pressfit onto it's shaft.
I drifted out the roll pin that retains the shaft in the housing and pulled the shaft/gear from the body:
This allowed me to chuck it up on the lathe and machine off the peening that (I thought) held the gear on.
It doesn't.
Ended up having to bore out the gear and enlarge the center hole to fit the larger FD shaft.
At this point I could have gotten all fancy (I considered machining the FD gear, with it's d-shaped center hole, down to a smooth hub and boring out the FC gear to accept it) but in the end, decided that "easy" would work just as well.
I mixed up some epoxy and glued the bastard on.
Were I to do this again, I 'd search the junkyard for a drop in replacement gear instead of modding the FC part. You never know, might get lucky...
So, now that's in and the car is back on her wheels.
Monday I spent a freezing three hours scouring the yard for connectors for the Miata cluster.
These are quite unique (see pic above) and I thought I'd hit paydirt with a 1995 626 but alas, the pin count was wrong.
I have five connectors, not a single one fits.
It might be possible to cut/paste the connectors together to make three of the right config...as I grow more desperate, that might be my only option.
Anyone considering this mod should make every attempt to source a cluster w/ pigtails included...make you life a whole lot simpler...
That dilemma will be temporarily tabled as I concentrate on installing the cluster and modding the plastic. I still have to make the two wire harness bringing the VSS signal up to the dash, but that's easy enough.
There will be work done on the cluster itself, mainly lighting and needle changes.
When I get that far, I'll let you know.
01-18-12, 12:49 PM
#64
Uh, they stopped making the MX-6 in 97....are talking about the speed6?
Do you guys not like full digital readouts?
I think an AIM dash or a Racepak dash looks REALLY nice inside an FC cluster bezel.
All sensors are very accurate and plug and play. No messing with silly gears for Speed, super accurate GPS...plus datalogging...
Do you guys not like full digital readouts?
I think an AIM dash or a Racepak dash looks REALLY nice inside an FC cluster bezel.
All sensors are very accurate and plug and play. No messing with silly gears for Speed, super accurate GPS...plus datalogging...
01-18-12, 12:58 PM
#65
i doubt the rotation of the generator makes a difference, should generate a wave form in forward or reverse. the FD VSS sits on the other side of the housing but i figured it still spins the same direction as the output shaft can only spin one way in all transmissions while moving forward anyways to the orientation is likely due to it being on the opposite side of the FD transmission.
hoped the gear ratio wouldn't change but that doesn't appear to be the case so there will likely need to be a variable controller for the speedo, oh well. still worth considering for this project and you already have the controller anyways.
i just hate the old cable speedo with analog odometer.
hoped the gear ratio wouldn't change but that doesn't appear to be the case so there will likely need to be a variable controller for the speedo, oh well. still worth considering for this project and you already have the controller anyways.
i just hate the old cable speedo with analog odometer.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-18-12 at 01:01 PM.
01-18-12, 02:12 PM
#66
I had always assumed that a Dakota Digital box would be required to calibrate the speedo...I do have a different tire diameter and diff ratio than the Miata.
Tell me Karack, what is the worst that can happen if my epoxied gear decides to come off?
I couldn't inspect inside the VSS hole with the trans in situ and have no idea what is in there.
Mr. Lobster: No, I don't like digital readouts.
I can see the point (debatable) in a race car, but not on the street.
I don't need to know my water temp is 192.7°, I just need to know it's OK.
Tell me Karack, what is the worst that can happen if my epoxied gear decides to come off?
I couldn't inspect inside the VSS hole with the trans in situ and have no idea what is in there.
Mr. Lobster: No, I don't like digital readouts.
I can see the point (debatable) in a race car, but not on the street.
I don't need to know my water temp is 192.7°, I just need to know it's OK.
01-18-12, 02:56 PM
#67
both gears are nylon, worst case it comes off and gets torn up by the driveshaft or gears and disperses some plastic through the tranny, no big deal.
if worried you could try popping it back off and cutting the length down a little more to get the C clip back into position, then worst case it would just spin freely on the shaft.
if worried you could try popping it back off and cutting the length down a little more to get the C clip back into position, then worst case it would just spin freely on the shaft.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-18-12 at 02:59 PM.
01-19-12, 07:40 AM
#71
While I await sunlight (my garage lighting sucks), here's a little teaser:
I spent some quality time in Hobby Lobby and scored some red gel sheet to highlight the dials.
The foam sheet was pure serendipity, what caught my eye as I strolled the aisle was the dead flat black finish...identical to the color of the clusters.
If my install plan works, I'm going to have three gaps to fill and this foam may come in handy.
It was an impulse buy.
The dial needles were harvested Monday as I perused the junkyard seeking connectors.
These came from a Nissan Maxima and an Audi of some sort.
Lately I've been conversing a lot with Slideways FC3S (who knows quite a bit about the subject of gauges) and he came up with the pic that perfectly exemplifies the overall "look" we both seek:
That's an Audi A4.
Apparently, the green tint on the Miata dial is applied on the back of the face and can be removed with acetone. I'm leery but have a spare cluster now to play with, so I'm going to give it a shot.
If that works, I'll have white lighting (remember, Mazda gets green lighting by slipping removable green condoms over the bulbs) and white graphics.
Place pieces of the red gel behind the dial and I can duplicate the red highlighting on the graphics.
The new red needles finish the makeover.
If I swap in VDO gauges, they can go in untouched as they already have thru-dial white lighting/graphics and red needles.
Using a spare S4 switch bezel, I've begun fitting the Miata cluster.
If this works as imagined, only the bottom mounting tabs of the Miata part need be removed, otherwise, it 's intact.
Once that's done, the cluster will snuggle right into position and doesn't seem to need any mounting provisions at all. Basically wedged from the rear, the cluster will be held in position from the front by the switch bezel.
I've made the preliminary cuts and now need to fit it in the car to refine the interfaces. If I were a smart person, I would Autocad this and could see exactly how the two shapes would meld, but I'm not, so it's "hack 'n fit" for me.
So far, the trimming has been surprisingly minimal although the top center mounting hole has been deleted.
Shouldn't matter.
I'm at work for the next three days and will only have a few hours in the mornings to play, by Sunday I hope to have the gauges mounted.
Then I'll wire it up (somehow...) and see what happens.
If all is good, the cluster itself will get modded.
I spent some quality time in Hobby Lobby and scored some red gel sheet to highlight the dials.
The foam sheet was pure serendipity, what caught my eye as I strolled the aisle was the dead flat black finish...identical to the color of the clusters.
If my install plan works, I'm going to have three gaps to fill and this foam may come in handy.
It was an impulse buy.
The dial needles were harvested Monday as I perused the junkyard seeking connectors.
These came from a Nissan Maxima and an Audi of some sort.
Lately I've been conversing a lot with Slideways FC3S (who knows quite a bit about the subject of gauges) and he came up with the pic that perfectly exemplifies the overall "look" we both seek:
That's an Audi A4.
Apparently, the green tint on the Miata dial is applied on the back of the face and can be removed with acetone. I'm leery but have a spare cluster now to play with, so I'm going to give it a shot.
If that works, I'll have white lighting (remember, Mazda gets green lighting by slipping removable green condoms over the bulbs) and white graphics.
Place pieces of the red gel behind the dial and I can duplicate the red highlighting on the graphics.
The new red needles finish the makeover.
If I swap in VDO gauges, they can go in untouched as they already have thru-dial white lighting/graphics and red needles.
Using a spare S4 switch bezel, I've begun fitting the Miata cluster.
If this works as imagined, only the bottom mounting tabs of the Miata part need be removed, otherwise, it 's intact.
Once that's done, the cluster will snuggle right into position and doesn't seem to need any mounting provisions at all. Basically wedged from the rear, the cluster will be held in position from the front by the switch bezel.
I've made the preliminary cuts and now need to fit it in the car to refine the interfaces. If I were a smart person, I would Autocad this and could see exactly how the two shapes would meld, but I'm not, so it's "hack 'n fit" for me.
So far, the trimming has been surprisingly minimal although the top center mounting hole has been deleted.
Shouldn't matter.
I'm at work for the next three days and will only have a few hours in the mornings to play, by Sunday I hope to have the gauges mounted.
Then I'll wire it up (somehow...) and see what happens.
If all is good, the cluster itself will get modded.
01-19-12, 10:05 AM
#72
Well, that was easier than expected.
This is the only cut necessary:
It's a simple cut but carefully measured.
I used the center mounting hole to establish a centerline on the hood.
Each sidecut was 60mm from center, for a total width of 120mm.
This distance matches the outside edges of two bosses cast into the Miata housing.
As the switch bezel slides into place, it automatically centers the cluster into the opening.
Here is the cluster "snapped" into place:
It does actually snap, too.
Here you can see where the main contact point is:
That little corner slides right over the rounded housing.
Note the cracks in my dash structure (they've been there since I've owned her)...my dash may be a wee bit more flexible than one in good condition. A file would knock down that edge in no time, if needbe.
The switch bezel slides right on and makes no other contact with the Miata cluster:
This gives some idea of the filler plate(s) that will be needed:
And, with a wheel:
So, there we go.
This is the only cut necessary:
It's a simple cut but carefully measured.
I used the center mounting hole to establish a centerline on the hood.
Each sidecut was 60mm from center, for a total width of 120mm.
This distance matches the outside edges of two bosses cast into the Miata housing.
As the switch bezel slides into place, it automatically centers the cluster into the opening.
Here is the cluster "snapped" into place:
It does actually snap, too.
Here you can see where the main contact point is:
That little corner slides right over the rounded housing.
Note the cracks in my dash structure (they've been there since I've owned her)...my dash may be a wee bit more flexible than one in good condition. A file would knock down that edge in no time, if needbe.
The switch bezel slides right on and makes no other contact with the Miata cluster:
This gives some idea of the filler plate(s) that will be needed:
And, with a wheel:
So, there we go.
