is this method safe for removing the driveshaft bolts?
is this method safe for removing the driveshaft bolts?
I have been unable to break the 4 driveshaft bolts loose using a variety of methods and it is driving me mad. It looks as though they might be rusted on there.
In order to keep the driveshaft from moving, I was thinking I could put it into 1st gear, apply the ebrake, then break the bolts loose with a breaker bar.
Could this cause any damage to the tranny or any other componants? Thanks!
In order to keep the driveshaft from moving, I was thinking I could put it into 1st gear, apply the ebrake, then break the bolts loose with a breaker bar.
Could this cause any damage to the tranny or any other componants? Thanks!
I usually just blast them with PB and put the ebrake on, you shouldnt have to put it in gear. Even if you did its unlikely youll be able to apply enough force to do damage before the bolts break.
nope wont hurt anything...but before you do that, go to the parts store and get some "PB Blaster" its the best rust penetrator i have ever used. spray it on and let it soak for about 20 min, reapply and the go to town on it
pick it up at auto zone or any auto parts store
pick it up at auto zone or any auto parts store
Thanks! Yeah, I sprayed PB Blaster on them a couple of times.
I agree, that stuff works awesome. I just can't believe they wouldn't budge no matter what I did! Guess I just need to start working out more!
I agree, that stuff works awesome. I just can't believe they wouldn't budge no matter what I did! Guess I just need to start working out more!
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You own a 20 year old car that you want to work on. Unless you have already successfully removed, cleaned, applied anti-sieze and re-installed every last nut and bolt on the car it should be mandatory. I have a set and a back-up set of tanks. I would really suggest buying a unit and learn how to use it. They are invaluable for a variety of reasons. Ever snap a bolt but still have a few threads to grab on? You can spend hours drilling, tapping, probably putting a heli-coil in afterwards or you can spend 5 minutes - heat the thing cherry red and clamp on with a set of vise grips and thread the rest out. Wait a few minutes for it to cool and chase the threads. A set with cylinders can be had for ~$300
http://www.oxarc.com/desc.ydev?prod_id=17980
Once you use real tools you will want to kill yourself for wasting so much time.
http://www.oxarc.com/desc.ydev?prod_id=17980
Once you use real tools you will want to kill yourself for wasting so much time.
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
You own a 20 year old car that you want to work on. Unless you have already successfully removed, cleaned, applied anti-sieze and re-installed every last nut and bolt on the car it should be mandatory. I have a set and a back-up set of tanks. I would really suggest buying a unit and learn how to use it. They are invaluable for a variety of reasons. Ever snap a bolt but still have a few threads to grab on? You can spend hours drilling, tapping, probably putting a heli-coil in afterwards or you can spend 5 minutes - heat the thing cherry red and clamp on with a set of vise grips and thread the rest out. Wait a few minutes for it to cool and chase the threads. A set with cylinders can be had for ~$300
http://www.oxarc.com/desc.ydev?prod_id=17980
Once you use real tools you will want to kill yourself for wasting so much time.
http://www.oxarc.com/desc.ydev?prod_id=17980
Once you use real tools you will want to kill yourself for wasting so much time.
What's with all the FD guys invading this section
If it's not too late, make sure you note where any balance washers go, and mark the position of the shaft relative to the diff. yoke. Also, I'd get new bolts/nuts from Mazda, since they look a little different from the regular hardware store variety.
I'm actually installing another pumpkin which has a LSD but I did mark the realationship with a small etch just in case I have to put it back in at a later time.
The other OEM bolts I will be using look like they are in much better shape. There don't appear to be any balancing washers on either diff so balancing shouldn't be effected... I hope.
The other OEM bolts I will be using look like they are in much better shape. There don't appear to be any balancing washers on either diff so balancing shouldn't be effected... I hope.
Uh huh. That's why every professionaly shop in america ONLY has air compressors and none of them have torches. 
Ever break a wheel stud with an air gun? How would you suggest removing the remaining stud? Prayer?

Ever break a wheel stud with an air gun? How would you suggest removing the remaining stud? Prayer?
but yeah, you need a torch when working on cars. and not always old cars. my friends 03 focus SVT was rusted like a sob and while working on it, he was on one side with a breaker bar and pb blaster and a big f-ing pipe, and took him like 40 minutes to brake a bolt loose, took me like 5 with the torch.
... buy one without rust
LOL mine has none, and i have never-seized EVREYTHING i touched. lol.thinking about removing the body panels to never seize them too! (dont want to test my luck to see what happens when it does rust... lol.. i under coated everything with the 3m rubebrized coat thing.... under the car!)
LOL mine has none, and i have never-seized EVREYTHING i touched. lol.thinking about removing the body panels to never seize them too! (dont want to test my luck to see what happens when it does rust... lol.. i under coated everything with the 3m rubebrized coat thing.... under the car!)
If you break your transmission removing the driveshaft bolts the next time you drove the car it would've broken. Driving your car puts great forces on it then you can apply with wrenches.
Get oxy/acetylene tanks, very very useful. I like to use 20 psi Oxygen and 7psi Acetelyne for cutting. Oh and yes it is safe to take out the driveshaft bolts like that, but like everyone said make sure you soak um in rust penetrator first.
And for if you do get oxy/acetylene just remember this, A before O or up ya go!
And for if you do get oxy/acetylene just remember this, A before O or up ya go!
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