would this help any if i got these

 

make your own...cheap and easy...

 

i just got some from ebay...$25 shipped....... even had a "mazdaspeed" on the post....... i dont think i could have done better for $25

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...23908245QQrdZ1

 

I'll give you a hint...
If it has "JDM" splashed all over it, it's probably bullshit.


-Ted

 

what difference if any do these make? i always see ground wires advertised in the import magazines and sites....i think it might be a load of bull...but just curious...i know hondas have lots of ground cables and so do bmws...

 

yeah

and ESPECIALLY on eBay...

"YOU ARE BIDDING ON A BRAND NEW UNIVERSAL GROUND WIRE SYSTEM WITH MAZDASPEED LOGO !!"

universal... mazda speed *LOGO*.... sounds like a piece....

make your own as you'll probably have to end up extending the wires anyway

 

oh man...i dont give a rats turd that it says "jdm" .... i know they arent "jdm"..... im mainly interested in the battery post ...the wiring is not a problem....if i have to extend a few wires here and there....no biggie...... but the post looks good........and thats what i was after!


and grounding wires are a proven modification........ especially on the crap grounding system of the fc...... ive seen as much as a 10 hp gain (dyno proven)... in a super street mag.... not on a fc, but still......i bet they help 1-2hp at most, and thats if they are done properly, and if there is no hp gain, its still a good maintenance mod, due to the age of the old grounding system (and the shottyness of it)

 

sounds good...anyone have a write up on how to correctly ground a FC?

 

There are around 900,000 writeups on how to ground an fc. heres a link to all of them: All the grounding articles ever posted

 

i made my own for my FB think i used 6 wires evenly around the motor 2 on the intake side 2 on the back 2 on the plug side.....it was the 3 ground kit i made the other 2 where for hondas and it help alot with throttle response in the hondas........just buy some 4g wire and some brass 4g ring turmanls and you have a gound kit......i also had 3 ground wires coming off the batt its was relocated in the back of the car............even if they dont add HP they do help throttle response..............i do car audio and video and that is the #1 thing is to have a good ground ....95% of the time if something is wrong its a bad ground.... it cant hurt anyting to have a good ground my 2 cents

 

I dont give a F for 10$ that kit is bad *** "If the batt is in the engin bay still ONLY" **** at 10$ I may grab a few for customers cars save me alot of time making my own when they have a factory batt location.
Providing that these are quality 4 to 2ga wires.
This is a IMO a ricer mod way of doing it b/c the setup is bling color wires evrywhere big bulky thing on terminal. I prefer it sleeker and more hiden if posible.

I made my own and is top quality cost me around 65$ and gas to the stores cost me 45$ and 1.5hrs or so of time. My batt is in hatch.

krishant - None if your cars electricl is working properly to begin with.

 

I just started regrounding may car over the weekend. My bellhousing to firewall cable was just dangling off the tranny. I replaces that one with an 8 gauge wire.

Iceblue- I added a ground cable to the pass. strut tower but don't know where to hook up the other side. Thanks.

 

That just goes to a search forums page.

 

wow.

 

wouldnt it be cheaper to buy a set off of ebay than to make it? ive read that its around 100 to make you own out of 4ga wire. the sets on ebay start at 10 and i believe they are 4ga too. correct me if im worng becasue im planning on buying a set with the VOLTAGE STABLIZER. thanks

 

Way to be helpful.

This thread is kinda useful: Grounding
But next time search first. Sleejay was right on that.

 

i think he was referring you the the "search" page...and then you type in "grounding fc" ...... just my .2 ..... but it isnt hard....

one goes to the block, one to the tranny, one (or 2) to the chassis, one to the intake, and a few for what ever you want.....

as an update... i just got my grounding kit in the mail 1 hour ago...very well made

here are some pics i shot for you guys........

 

Let's clear a few things up on this topic...


There's NOTHING wrong with the grounding system on the FC. It's similar to 99% of other cars out there, so I guess it could be said that it's no worse then any other car. The major issues is that the newest FC is 14 years old, while the oldest is 21 years old. These are OLD cars, and as such we're starting to see the common failures of old car. The grounds are simply getting dirty, corroded and loose. Just cleaning the stock grounds and restoring them back to factory is all that's necessary (more on that later).

We've all see this, and I've even been in arguments with people who think they know better. The fact is that I would be very surprised to hear if the grounds on that car were working properly from the beginning. Most cars I see, even my 5 year old Honda Insight, have grounding problems due to the way manufacturers have them set up. Most grounding straps are bare copper, steel bolts and don't have any dielectric grease installed from the factory. This is a recipe for corrosion even on BRAND NEW cars.

Age yes. Shottyness no.

That size of cable is unnecessary unless you are replacing your stock grounds. If you are adding grounds (and I don't know why you would do that since all you need to do is clean your stock grounds) then you can use much thinner cable.

As for "quality" cable, it's about all the same. Go to a welding store, buy it at 10% of the price that the audio stores sell. The quality of the terminals and the connection to them (which I virtually guarantee I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole) is most important.

Now, here's how to deal with grounds properly.

Your two main grounding points on the car are at the driver side shock tower, and the starter. The negative cable from the battery connects to both locations directly. The shock tower ground is hidden and down near the frame rail. Remove the M6 bolt and throw it away. Now thoroughly clean the lug with a wire brush. It should be shiny copper when done. Clean the area around the bolt hole down to bare metal, then run a tap through the hole to get rid of any corrosion. Get a brand new M6 stainless bolt (fastener store) and a flat washer (stainless, fastener store). Coat EVERYTHING with dielectric grease. The bolt, washer, hole and area surrounding the hole should be covered in a coating at least 2MM thick. Reinstall the ground and torque it securely.

Repeat for the starter ground, but reuse the existing bolt.

Repeat for the ECU ground on the intake manifold. You need to clean the aluminium well and make sure it's shiny as the copper and aluminium will corrode aggressively. Dielectric grease is used to prevent this corrosion. While you're in the area, pull every electrical connector, clean with plastic-safe contact cleaner, pack with dielectric grease and reinstall.

Repeat for the transmission ground.

Repeat for the ground that should be on the muffler (this is for your O2 sensor).

On the drivers side near the trailing coil is a massive ground block that connects through a multipin connector to a brass fitting installed on the stock tower. Remove and thoroughly clean. Make sure the brass terminals are shiny as well as the back where it contacts the shock tower. Be liberal with the dielectric grease. Clean the harness connector with contact cleaner, pack with dielectric grease and reinstall.

Before you reconnect the negative cable to the battery (you did disconnect it, right?) make sure the battery terminal is clean and free of corrosion. Clean it down to shiny lead, then cover with dielectric grease and reinstall the terminal.

This is maybe an afternoon's worth of work, with a cost of around $20 (counting the intake gasket you may need to replace). A $5 tube of dielectric grease goes a long way, and should be applied to EVERY SINGLE electrical connection that you can find.

 

That is exsactly how I run and ran my grounding system and I balive how I stated and showd in my photos it was donel The netire grounding system straps were redone and uralized a single central block. This block added grounding capabilitys to the strut the fire wall the tranny to iron from iron to starter bolt to batt and block to housing and harness to housing.