i just checked the fsm. is it nessecary to have the mazda compression gauge, or is there a way do it with a regular gauge? is there a write up for this somewhere?

 

yes you can do it with a regular one, but its kinda micky mouse....

You need to open the bleeder while you crank the motor so you can see the pulses, other wise the pressure will just jump and jump and jump.......

You should see a surge, drop, surge, drop, surge, drop on the needle

Also make sure you have sufficient cranking speed and proper temperature as per FSM

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...lder/comp.html
On step eight of using the piston tester, I believe it should be at least 80-90 PSI, not 30-35, at lest thats how it was when I did it.

 

sounds easy enough. now i just need to find someone with a gauge to borrow.
just out of curiousity, is there anyone else that makes a rotary compression gauge? or is this one of those speciality tools only mazda carries? and how much do they go for?

 

you dont need the mazda compression tester.
just take the check-valve out of the bottom of a regular compression tester.

it is the same type valve core as is in any tire valve stem.

 

good 'ol leaky schraeder valve...nice

 

back to the other question- any idea how much the mazda gauge(or aftermarket if anyone makes one) goes for?

 

http://mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm

Bottom of page...

 

$1640 for a compression gauge.....ummm no. anyone else make one?

 

Where would I find someone that might own a Mazda Compression Tester who would be inclined towards helping me figure out whether I can find a more accurate manner of testing compression. I'm thinking a Physics-lab type software system for analyzing pressure?

-Goofy

 

Find a Mazda tech who does work on the side. Still have to pay probably.

 

i just did a compressino check on my car i bought a 25 dollar one for auto zone and took out the egi fuse and sparkplug and wires and i had someone crank it...i have a compression avg of 105 =D too bad the car doesnt run...>_<

 

I am considering building one for use with a PC. It would be around $200 for a Serial Port version and $250 for a USB version, and would come with the software to do the compression on either a Rotary engine or a Piston engine.

Just would need a windows based PC.

There are also threads on building a home made PC based compression checker in the 3rd gen technical section.

 

yeah...right below the mazda one there's the "lightning rotors compression tester" for $950, haha

 

i think ill still pass on that one

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=compression

http://www.marx7.org/~dsmith/comp.htm

http://www.dataq.com/products/startkit/di148.htm

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...1&page=1&pp=15

 

Icemark, that's a great idea. It would be even cooler if it ran under Windows Mobile or Palm OS (so that we could use a PDA instead of a laptop). Like Digital Tuning did with Pocketlogger for the Rtek 2.0. I would buy whatever version you would make. It's got to be cheaper than the Mazda unit.

PS
Still haven't figured out what we are going to do with the logicon from the 88 AE (sell or fix) or even the windshield wiper switch for that matter.

 

Or a thought just entered my mind about the RTEK2.0.

The series four has a ATP sensor located under the dash, unlike a series five. The RTEK system allows you to put in a set value for the ATP sensor and then use that wire for another input of your choice that is in the five volt range. Sooooooooo........if one had a pressure transducer of an output of zero to five vdc, if SEEMS that you might be able to data log it on the RTEK2.0 and display it on a graph. Either on the Palm or on the desktop computer. Just a idea being thrown out there.

 

It will never ever ever run on Palm... Palm is old outdated tech. Running on Palm is like asking for it to run on Windows 3.1

But I'll run it by my programmer for Win Mobile.

The problem with Win mobile (and of course Palm) is that most of the units don't have high power USB (500mA) outputs, rather just USB in- in other words, you would also have to hook up power and ground leads and use a custom USB cable to make it work with a Portble OS. Maybe I can use a battery on that instead... just have not looked into it.