RyoFC3S

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I have got another question for our experts. Yes, i've done my searches and I have not found what I'm looking for. I understand its difficult to provide a good analysis or offer help without any pictures/videos/sound, but any help would be greatly appreciated.

My Modifications are listed in my Signature and in my vBGarage if that helps at all.

The Problem:

Cold Start. Every morning it takes me about 5 minutes to get my car running properly. The weirdest thing is this; when I first crank it over, it will not start unless my foot is COMPLETELY OFF the gas pedal. If I give it any throttle at all it will not start, and if I DO get it to start, as soon as I tap the gas pedal past like 0.8% throttle (I see TP on my SAFCII) it dies.

It also will not idle on its own until the engine temps get up a little bit, and since every time I tap the gas to keep it running it dies, It takes a long time to get it running on its own (and this must be extremely hard on my starter).

Until it gets up to normal operating temperature (or the temp gauges start rising) it runs like ****. I have to give it very low throttle to get the RPMs to rise at all, and in the first couple minutes no matter how little or much throttle I put into it the RPMS will not rise (it just kind of bogs around 1000 rpm). If I can get the RPMS to get past that bog point and up to 3000+, it runs fine up there. But, if I let off the throttle at all it will either DIE or feel like its running on 1 rotor around 600-700rpm. Also, whenever I hit high throttle (above ~60%) it backfires like CRAZY. Very loud and very frequent backfires until it gets warm.

On top of all that, while its still cold and engine temps arent up, it makes a weird sound. I can't really describe it at all, but hopefully I can get a sound clip or a video soon.

The weirdest thing about it is that once it gets close to normal operating temperature (and about 180 degrees on my Water Temp gauge) it runs TOTALLY normal. Perfect idle, perfect everything.

Also, it should be noted that this problem has arisen fairly recently. I am only at about 1000 miles on a rebuilt motor, and this problem presented itself somewhere around 500 miles ago. Yes, I removed my BAC, Cold Start Assist, etc.. But for the first 300 or so miles it cold started fine and idled even after the very first crank over.

What i've done:

My good friend, who is a local mechanic that's been working specifically on Rotaries (and owns several FCs) for 20 years, thought it was my TPS. I threw my old one out, bought a used on, put it in, and adjusted it to spec with one the Flasher things that Mazda says to use in the FSM. No difference whatsoever with cold start (but it did clear up throttle a little and made it slightly more consistant).

So what can I do? My friend doesen't have any time to look at it for a couple weeks, so I'm left to try and figure it out on my own within the limited amount of time I have to work on it and try and fix it. If anyone has an ideas please post them and I will try them and report back on this thread.

Thanks for your time.

-Andrew

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I would guess a malfunctioning Waterthermosensor. Pulled codes yet?

Icemark

Not TPS, and you should not ever touch the throttle while cranking on a fuel injected vehicle unless starting in sub zero temps.

I would be looking at the AWS and throttle body. Did you remove the throttle body thermo valve??? (your mod list says throttle body mod, but that was not clear if you also did the thermovalve removal).

With the SAFC disconnected/bypassed do you still have the same problem???

Any modifcations to the AFM (including placement)??? or intake tubing?

Checked the water temp sensor already right???