Manual Brakes conversion, clean....
Manual Brakes conversion, clean....
This sounds silly but I want my engine bay as clean and simple as possible. I already have a full wire tuck and the coils are inside so my next project was to get rid of the large booster portion of the master cylinder.
I removed the master cylinder + booster and then unbolted the booster from the master cylinder..... simple
next made a plate from steel to cover the existing hole..... this is not needed but it looks nice.
The booster bolts to the firewall with 4 bolts and the master cylinder has 2, It works out perfectly that the top two bolts holes for the booster are the same distance apart as the 2 bolts on the master cylinder. So this means no drilling of holes at all.
Also using these top two holes moves the fulcrum of the pedal up 3 cm.....
This which will decrease pedal effort, which is desireable since you are removing the booster
I removed the pedal to drill a new hole, and made a new adjustable rod between the pedal and cylinder, with a bolt, a file, and a drill press used as a lathe
........ looks factory
You have to trim just a very littile bit on the firewall with a die grinder for the the new rod to fit correctly.....
Put everything together and made some new brake lines..... simple simple
I spliced the new line for the rear into the existing line in the middle under the car
Everything all together maybe took 2.5 hrs...
I didnt think it would clear up as much room as it did, i love the openess of that corner now
Brake feel is very different as it is much more progressive and lockup is alot more predictable...... YES i can still lock all 4 corners without effort
Tinner gave me this idea, so thanks to him
Here is a pic of what it looks like with the booster gone... i didnt take a pic once the lines were done, but they are just as simple and look great

and here is a pic of what was removed, 5-10lbs

zac
I removed the master cylinder + booster and then unbolted the booster from the master cylinder..... simple
next made a plate from steel to cover the existing hole..... this is not needed but it looks nice.
The booster bolts to the firewall with 4 bolts and the master cylinder has 2, It works out perfectly that the top two bolts holes for the booster are the same distance apart as the 2 bolts on the master cylinder. So this means no drilling of holes at all.
Also using these top two holes moves the fulcrum of the pedal up 3 cm.....
This which will decrease pedal effort, which is desireable since you are removing the booster
I removed the pedal to drill a new hole, and made a new adjustable rod between the pedal and cylinder, with a bolt, a file, and a drill press used as a lathe
........ looks factoryYou have to trim just a very littile bit on the firewall with a die grinder for the the new rod to fit correctly.....
Put everything together and made some new brake lines..... simple simple
I spliced the new line for the rear into the existing line in the middle under the car
Everything all together maybe took 2.5 hrs...
I didnt think it would clear up as much room as it did, i love the openess of that corner now
Brake feel is very different as it is much more progressive and lockup is alot more predictable...... YES i can still lock all 4 corners without effort
Tinner gave me this idea, so thanks to him
Here is a pic of what it looks like with the booster gone... i didnt take a pic once the lines were done, but they are just as simple and look great

and here is a pic of what was removed, 5-10lbs

zac
ive been lovin your car for some time now... but this tops it! im going to do some wire tucking and and what-not, but im still going to keep my p/s and anti-lock, even though these cars look AMAZING with just the painted block and nice shiney turbo...
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Tem120
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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Sep 7, 2015 09:53 AM




