Ok, I went to autozone and got engine, gear oil, windshield washer fluid, dot3 and engine flush. Then to Walmart for my oil filter. First question, They only had 1991 rx7 n/a oil filters, and I have a 1987 n/a rx7. will it work?

Some more, what coolant do you guys reccomend for the 50/50 with distilled water?

How long do I have to drive around for all the fluids to work?(couldn't find it in the FSM or haynes manual)


Answer what you know, and Thanks for helping a new rx7 owner.

 

As far as my knowledge goes, the oil filter should be the same for 87-91 non turbo rx7s. I'm not for certain on that though. Any 50/50 coolant will work just fine whether it's Peak, Proline, or Prestone brand. Make sure you bleed all the systems when you flush the fluids out too.

 

Ok, thanks fonzi581

 

I bought motor flush, and on the bottle, it doesn't say anything about rotaries, so I'm curious, will it still work in the rotary? Or should I take it back?

 

I dont think I would put a flush in my 7. Also I wouldnt put a damn Fram filter on it either. Buy a mazda OEM filter.

 

Ok, Il take back the flush today and filter, to exchange for an oem oil filter. Thanks Mr.Fc3s.

 

the fc filter is the same through all fc's and turbo or not.. they can also be used on FD's and RX8's EVEN FB's

size may be different but they will work on any of them.

dont EVER use engine flush.. look on the bottle it is just kerosene NASTY!!!

buy strait coolant and mix it 50/50 any brand will work but use green if u can find it NOT dexcool...

fram filters are junk.. I use ONLY Mazda oem or Nippon filters.

 

When I use to work at a dealership, this mini van threw a rod bc of the fram oil filter callapsing......haha

 

I usually use Prestone coolant. No particular reason.

I'm not sure what you're asking in the second question, but as soon as you change everything you're fine. Just start the engine, let it idle and do a walk around to make sure there are no leaks. If you're talking about service intervals, those are in the Haynes and FSM, so I doubt that's what you were asking.

 

if u are asking abotu the coolant.. u will need to bleed/burp the system properly so there is no air pockets.. depending if u are changing the entire system u will have to turn the heat on, so u get circulation through the core, into the block, and radiator and top off from there.

atleast u have an S5 with the rad cap on the radiator..

would also be a good time to change your thermostat.. I only use NIPPON thermostats..
Mazda has changed to crappy 5.00 Motorad thermostats... a waste of money if buying from the dealer.

 

UPDATE!!! I changed the transmission with 75w90 gear oil(way to cold to do more). When I was draining the fluid, I followed the manual and did the big one(A in FSM), then the fill plug(B in FSM). I couldn't find anything to fill it with, so I took a funnel, hose, and tape. Made a ghetto beer bong with a tapered end to stick in the hole. I used up the 3 bottles I had. I turned on my car, and it made a whinning noise, I sat there listening to it and watching my RPM. My RPMs were up a 2,000, so I revved it and held it at 3,000. Then dropped to 1,900, than to 2,000. I can smell my exhaust, it smells kinda like the fluid, not a lot, but a hint. Also, tomorrow I'm going to get more gear oil.

Question 1, how many bottles do I need? Each is a quart, I used three, the FSM says that I need 2.6quarts, I don't feel like I have that much.

Question 2, did I ruin my synchronizes in the trannsmission, or do I need more fluid?

 

you probably should drain the tranny now and put about 2.5 quarts in it and then a touch more. Other wise plan on pulling the trans and replacing all the seals in it and probably the clutch too. Visit the site below for more info.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/transfluid.htm


Other than that i use K&N Oil filters(probably overkill). They have never let me down and i have cut one apart before and they are awesome inside. plus easy on and easy off with the one inch nut on top.

 

Alright, I got a K&N filter from autozone.

Oh funny store, yesterday when I was getting all this fluid, I payed with the credit card and the discount card thing. It totaled about $50, with some change. Well after reading my some on this thread, I went to take back the flush today, and apparently they didn't even follow through with the previous purchase! Get it? I walked out with $50 worth of fluids, and the K&N filter and I didn't pay a cent! I'm going to add the extra .2 that I need for the transmission, I'm sick seeing hot chicks wanting to impress them, and come to realize I'm in a van

 

I read this without seeing the comma and thought "shouldnt this be in the gay section of the lounge"? hahaha...... man maintenance.


john ny

 

was the trans howling before u did the fluid change?

what brand of oil did u use?

 

UPDATE! The transmission has stopped whining after I drove it around my neighborhood. I also changed my engine oil fluid with 10w30 Prestone fluid from Autozone, and the K&N oil filter. The drain plug was, mabe air ratcheted on, so I stripped it trying to get if off. I'm going to start ordering today. My first Items are: SSClutchline, Drain plug, K&N Filter, Brakes and rotors, and a left door switch.

Question 1: Is there a layout for the fusebox for interior electrical I.E. door locks, switches, lights?(its not in the FSM, or haynes)

Question 2: How would I search for an oil pressure sensor, for the dash? I keep getting oil pressure sender.(the one on the dash doesn't even move, I check my oil constantly)

 

 

I like to use 15/50 oil idk if I did use a 10w30 I would add about 5oz of premix (but that is another story)

And about your trans I think the fuild needed to work its way thru. Also in the haynes they say to take a fill/drain plug out and the trans oil should be level with the bottom of the hole.

 

How much coolant do I put into my radiator, I flushed it with a garden hose, and found a dead beatle in my radiator. Do I fill the radiator itself all the way? because I filled the overlow tank to the full mark already.

 

I changed my engine oil(10w30) and my coolant(prestone 50/50). I started my car and waited until it was at 750rpms. then I drove it around for 5 minutes, watching my temperature gauge. Everything seems to be working out ok.

My car is going to sit until tomorrow, so I can change my differential fluid from 70w80, to 75w80. The dude at autozone was a serious butwipe when I approached him with how much coolant to put it. I finished that call like,"keep looking for my headgasket!"(I felt cool) Also, I'm going to change the rubber gasket things on my rear breaks, because one is torn. Would fixing this problem make my brake peddle stronger? I ask, because when I do hard breaking I peddle feels sturdy, and as I decelerate, my peddle slowly sinks to the floor.

Woo!!

 

I believe you would want the radiator filled all the way when cold, so that once the car warms up, the water will expand and the extra volume will go into your overflow container. Then, you can add some more coolant to that container until it hits the "full" mark, and you should be set. Someone else want to confirm this?

 

If you have not yet ordered a replacement plug, I highly recommend the Fumoto oil drain valve F-106 Regular Valve. Once installed, you will never again need tools to drain the oil, and you will not even need to jack up the car if you have a low-profile oil drain pan and a level parking area. Also, you will never need to buy another crush washer (supposed to be replaced each time you remove the stock plug), and you will have the ability to drain a small portion of oil if needed.
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

I recommend Brembo Replacement Rotors for bang for the buck. You can usually get a pretty good deal at tirerack.com

There is an index on page 50-11 of the FSM.

I don't understand the question.

Items needed:
1-gal ethylene glycol coolant
1-gal distilled water (from the grocery store)
1 permanent marking pen

1. Pour coolant into the radiator until the 1-gal container is half empty.
2. Pour distilled water into the radiator until the 1-gal container is also half empty.
3. Pour the remaining distilled water into the coolant container and mark the container "50-50" with a marking pen.
4. Pour the 50-50 mix into the radiator until it is full and replace the radiator cap.
5. See the FSM for the procedure of properly filling the system the rest of the way with the filler cap and bleeder plug removed.

Check the overflow tank after driving for a day or two, fill with 50-50 mix if needed.

 

I know this sounds strange, but the Mazda dealership actually sells the best quality filter. Nothing wrong with the K&N though. Fram sucks.

Now that summer is kicking in, 10w30 will be iffy in your region. Next year at this time use 10w40 or 20w50 to protect the engine when the temperatues reach the 90's. Castrol GTX (not synthetic) has shown to work really well in rotary engines.

You can compare the weather statistics for your region with the FSM temperature ranges in order to choose the correct oil for each scheduled oil change. In your case, it looks like 10w40 would work well throughout the year if you want to keep it simple.
http://www.weatherbase.com/weather/w...=065327&refer=

Why do you keep putting the wrong fluid in the differential? Don't you have a manual? The differential is supposed to have 90 weight oil. Synthetic is best, especially in the cold or extreme heat, if you don't mind paying extra for it. I like Red Line brand, but other synthetic brands are fine.

If you pivot the rear brake calipers up for servicng or inspection, and then slam them back down over the wheel hub without retracting the piston, they will tear the rubber gasket things. The Haynes manual has instructions and pictures of how to properly service the rear brakes.

Yes, it is possible that torn rubber gaskets are causing your braking problems, but it sounds more like bad fluid or air in the system to me. Did you bleed the brakes, or just add fluid? If you want to make sure you bleed ALL of the fluid, I recommend using ATE Super Blue so that you can keep bleeding until the fluid discharge from each caliper turns from amber to blue. The fluid is good for about 2-3 years, and then you can replace it with ATE TYP 200 or Castrol LMA and bleed the system until the blue turns to amber again.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/a...blue_fluid.jsp

Your local import auto shop can rebuild the calipers for you. I had all 4 of mine rebuilt for only $220. Mazdatrix also sells rebuild kits if you want to try it yourself.

 

10W30 in the NA engine is fine. I used it in my 91 for 0 degrees up to 100. No problems.

 

One of my friends drove over 30,000 miles with the same oil, and his engine had no problems. Doing something stupid that does not result in immediate catastrophic engine failure does not negate the fact that it is stupid.