Man-made Tid!
#1
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Man-made Tid!
I decided I want to make my own TID instead of buying some half *** piece of metal from some ricer shop...
I found this page after searching and I think I can do it (its pretty simple) just need some help or insight about what things are...
Here is the web page http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/tild.html
and here are the parts you need...
1 - 3" 90 or 45 deg mandrel bent exhaust piping, preferably polished. looks 'BADASS' == $YMMV, mine was free (NO PROBLEM)
1 - 3" ID silicone connector == $6
(I FEEL STUPID BUT I DONT KNOW EXACTALLY WHAT IT IS....IM PICTURING A REALLY THICK STIFF RUBBER BAND)
1 - 3"-to-2.5" silicone reducer (BLUE OF COURSE!) == $6 (SAME THING... I DONT KNOW WHAT IT IS)
1 - 2" long section of reinforced (Purosil) 2 1/4" silicone hose == $YMMV, free here. (???)
Where could I obtain most of these parts?
local car parts shop or are the hoses harder to find?
I found this page after searching and I think I can do it (its pretty simple) just need some help or insight about what things are...
Here is the web page http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/tild.html
and here are the parts you need...
1 - 3" 90 or 45 deg mandrel bent exhaust piping, preferably polished. looks 'BADASS' == $YMMV, mine was free (NO PROBLEM)
1 - 3" ID silicone connector == $6
(I FEEL STUPID BUT I DONT KNOW EXACTALLY WHAT IT IS....IM PICTURING A REALLY THICK STIFF RUBBER BAND)
1 - 3"-to-2.5" silicone reducer (BLUE OF COURSE!) == $6 (SAME THING... I DONT KNOW WHAT IT IS)
1 - 2" long section of reinforced (Purosil) 2 1/4" silicone hose == $YMMV, free here. (???)
Where could I obtain most of these parts?
local car parts shop or are the hoses harder to find?
#4
RX-7 Alumni
You're in luck, I've been researching this for a TID on my FB.
MANDREL-BENT ALUMINIZED TUBING
Silicone Hoses
and
More Hoses
You should be able to get your TID parts from these places.
Scott
MANDREL-BENT ALUMINIZED TUBING
Silicone Hoses
and
More Hoses
You should be able to get your TID parts from these places.
Scott
#5
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
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Well, you guys can go with the aluminized tubing if you want.... I'd say pony up and get madrel bend aluminum tubing ...
aluminized tubing is just exhaust pipe, if you're gonna use that, forget about polishing it you'll just take the caoting off and it'll rust..
you'll do much better to get some heavy duty, enamel spray paint, spray it, let it dry and then BAKE it in the oven. I bake my parts at about 225 for 20 minutes. you don't want the painted surfaces touching the rack, so take a coat hanger and run it through the tube, bend it on either end and hang the part UNDER the oven rack. ( i hang the parts in the booth using the same wire and once they become dry, i use the wire then to hang them from the oven rack.. that way you never have to touch the part once its painted) Turn the oven off after the 20 minutes and let the parts in the oven until it cools to room temperature.
If you want it more shiney.. after you bake the base coat, sand it lightly with 1500 grint and clear coat it, and then bake that!
Baking the parts makes the paint harder and it will hold up MUCH better in the engine bay.
If you are doing a lot of stuff, eastwood has a cheap powdercoating kit thatt you can use your home oven with for small parts and they have some really bitchin metallic coatings now!
aluminized tubing is just exhaust pipe, if you're gonna use that, forget about polishing it you'll just take the caoting off and it'll rust..
you'll do much better to get some heavy duty, enamel spray paint, spray it, let it dry and then BAKE it in the oven. I bake my parts at about 225 for 20 minutes. you don't want the painted surfaces touching the rack, so take a coat hanger and run it through the tube, bend it on either end and hang the part UNDER the oven rack. ( i hang the parts in the booth using the same wire and once they become dry, i use the wire then to hang them from the oven rack.. that way you never have to touch the part once its painted) Turn the oven off after the 20 minutes and let the parts in the oven until it cools to room temperature.
If you want it more shiney.. after you bake the base coat, sand it lightly with 1500 grint and clear coat it, and then bake that!
Baking the parts makes the paint harder and it will hold up MUCH better in the engine bay.
If you are doing a lot of stuff, eastwood has a cheap powdercoating kit thatt you can use your home oven with for small parts and they have some really bitchin metallic coatings now!
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 02-24-04 at 10:05 AM.
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#8
OK i am slighlty confused i thought you can not run the car without the AFM..can some please post pic of what this is supposed to look like in a turbo..to clear my confusion.
thank you, greatly appreciated
thank you, greatly appreciated
#11
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yeah you could go mass air flow (MAF) to eliminate the AFM, but it's tricky, there've been countless threads on it. Anyone done a TID outa stainless? I do a lot of work for an aftermarket truck parts company, they've got mad stainless lying around. plus i've got my own hydraulic bender
--Paul
--Paul
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