ok going to make an adjustable wastegate arm, and looking for some how to, or advice. anyone got some links, i tried searching, and got a lot about porting but nothing on making the arm adjustable. i need to make the rod threaded and shorten it some. any help is appreciated.
thanks
Rob

 

Any reason why?

Shortening the rod will possibly make the car boost less and make the car feel sluggish...


-Ted

 

actually i built a hybrid turbo, and the rod is too long, and i need to shorten it, so i wanted to shorten it, and make it adjustable, so i can get the perfect length.
thanks
Rob

 

what tools do you have access to? If you've got a welder, than this is a piece of cake. cut the actuator arm near the actuator (but far enough away that you can get in there to weld), weld on a right-hand threaded bolt's head to whats left of the arm (coaxially), so that the threads are pointing back. Then, take a right handed and left handed nut and weld them inside a tube, being careful not to overheat them to warp the threads (You could always run a tap through each afterwards if you do, or take a solid bar, drill both sides coaxially, and tap one of them right-handed, the other left-handed). Then take some left-hand threaded rod, weld whatever bit of metal you need to it to attach to the wastegate actuator, and assemble. Dont forget lock nuts. Now, to adjust, you just turn the center section. one way will be tighten, the other will be loosen.

 

hmm sounds a lot easier than it will be, i was thinking of doing something similar, actually threading the actuator arm, onle left hand one right had, and getting a long threaded nut that has one side reverse thread and usingin it in the middle. i was just looking ofor alternate ideas.
thanks
Rob

 

turn buckle is your friend Actually shortening the wastegate arm is not a bad idea. Brian at bnr does it with his hybrids to combat the problem with the wastegate spring being to weak. The turn buckle will put a preload on the spring causing the spring to be stiffer thus not opening prematurely with the added flow.

 

^right, that is kinda what im trying to accomplish, but, in my case, the arm tuned out to be about 1/2" too long, so now i need to shorten it just to get it to work...

 

As stated before I'd find a turnbuckle and the die necessary to make the threads on the rod and you're set. On my miata I had to add preload to the actuator to close it tighter until boost came on. It gave much better response.

 

Here is how i did mine: cut it, thread it, reattach and adjust

 

what size thread did you use,
this is exactly why i posted, looking to find the right size die to thread it with...
thanks
Rob

 

i believe it was a 5/16 die

 

sweet, did you tap both sides right hand thread, or did you do one left hand thread?

 

both are right hand i couldnt find a left hand thread.