Bob Boberson

iTrader: (3)

I ruined a small plastic piece inside my switches while I was cleaning the contacts last so I decided to make my own that shouldn't have to be replaced for the life of the car. There are a few somewhat similar threads, but this can be used by people who can't read a wiring diagram.

Materials Needed:
2 DPDT Mom On-Off-On switches (I used the rocker type here http://www.amazon.com/DPDT-Momentary.../dp/B001PNO4OE)
Wire (I used some 14 AWG I had laying around)
Solder and iron
ABS Plastic, Sheet metal, etc.
Sand paper/File (Having a dremel tool helps)
RTV
Electric tape (I used liquid tape)

This is how a DPDT switch works:

I used 30A switches which may have been overkill, but I doubt they'll ever need to be replaced.

Steps
1. Cut a rough template of the outside edges of the panel the switches will be mounted in using your desired material, I used some ABS plastic from work. Because of how thin the edges are on my panel I recommend using something about 1/4" thick. This of course depends on the strength of your material and how large of switches you get, mine were fairly large.
2. Sand the outer edges to the point where it can fit in the opening, but leave it tight enough so you can just 'pop' it in.
3. You can use either a zip bit on a dremel to make the hole which I used until my dremel died , or what I had to do for about half of it and drill holes with a drill bit for the main area and then use a file or sand paper to get the switches in.
4. After I inserted the switches, I turned the panel upside down with the switches in and RTV'd them together to prevent any leaks and let it cure overnight. Don't use too much on the edges or it may not seat right in the door anymore.
5. Now wiring the switches. I cut the male side of the harness for the switch from the original switch. I added a little wire between the cut harness and the switch. (About 3 inches which was somewhat excessive.) I soldered the wires to the switch this way:

I had originally crimped the wires with female spade connectors but it makes the whole setup go too deep in the door and wont fit.
6. I then applied liquid tape to all metal connections showing.
Here is a picture when I used crimped connectors before to give you an idea:

7. Plug it in. I'm going to RTV mine in most likely as it pops out if I shut my door too hard. Here's my finished product, if you take a little more time I'm sure it would look better too.


Notes:
If you don't want your passenger switch to have functionality you can opt not to combine the B/L (Black/Blue) and B/R (Black/Red) wires. These switches should last a long time, even taking the full 12V from the car.

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

SilHaro

iTrader: (2)

Ghetto.

But awesome!

lunardeathgod

That is not ghetto when you are saving about $70

brilliant idea, now make some extras and sell them

dennis blackstone

whats wrong with ghetto ...everyone has links to it

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Very nice. They also sell ones very similar at most parts stores in the HELP! section. Generally they're for GM's, but work the same.

lunardeathgod

looks like someone likes taco bell :p

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Mild? weaksauce. literally.

datz

awsome!! but mild sauce? be a man get fire sauce.

Bob Boberson

iTrader: (3)

Haha yeah, thanks guys. I've seen the help switches, just wanted to build something sturdier that would fit right in. Fire is killer on my heartburn .

Bob Boberson

iTrader: (3)

Forgot to mention that the switches will eventually all run out, leaving you something like this or the hand crank. Once the contacts have been sanded down to copper, the need to sand them will become more frequent, increasing the chances to break something old and plastic.

bumpstart

works fine for me-

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Great idea. I think this is archive material.

TheAbsence

iTrader: (19)

+1 to archive. We're going to need stuff like this more and more as our cars continue to age. My last window switch was so bad I was having to clean the contacts once a month. I'm just shocked I never had my car broken into while the window wouldn't roll up on my way to work.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i'm going to send you $30 to buy a digital camera i swear....i'm not even sure what you're trying to show us, lol.

atli126

This is awesome. Thanks

5yen

Works great! Saved me $140 over buying a new switch from mazdatrix

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

If all you guys would do the relay mod, you wouldn't need to sand, sand, sand, then ghetto rebuild.

And nice dead useless thread revival.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

there is a guy in Japan that has started 3D printing the plastic bits for the switches, salvation is nearly at hand

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Only if you have power windows.
While all you power guys get raptured, I guess us manual guys get to inherit the wind.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

you really into the 3d printing thing huh lol

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

its pretty neat, kind of. i'm making a couple of gauge panels.

to be fair, the guy who sold window switch parts was selling them for $80, and a brand new switch from Mazda is $80.

welfare

3d printing is slick. you can make real life prototypes for custom parts. so much more economical.
oh and you guys know first gen mpv switches fit almost perfectly and, aside from repinning the driver side switches, are direct plug and play right? a better revised design for the switches as well. and mpv's are a dime a dozen!

+1 for pw relay too. can not believe mazda didn't do this from the factory with how much current they draw

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

we used to sell like 10 mpv switch for every 1 Rx7 switch..

welfare

hmmm. are you implying that the mpv switch is a higher failure rate? or that more fc owners were using them for replacement?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

this was a dealership, we would sell the mpv switch to the mpv people and the Rx7 switch to the Rx7 people. besides the MPV switch was more $$