id build a half bridge with 89+rotors and TII plates. run a 700 cfm holly with vaccume secondarys. but thats just me......

 

Hey BCTY this is alittle off subject but how good of a buy are the 4.30 final drive?? I saw that on rx7.com and was thinking of buying them. What were your thoughts on it after you bought it?

 

SAme setup but with a stand alone

 

Why not just go all out, with aluminum side housings and intermediate housings, with the large street port, hardened stationaries, lightened/balanced '89-'91 rotors,balanced eccentric shaft, ceramic apex seals, true dual exhaust to two presilencers to straight through-no mufflers 2.5 inch pipes, stand-alone ecu, e-fan, no power steering, no ac, no cruise, no dash, stripped the snot outta GTUs, with TIEN coil overs, frt/rr strut tower bracing, racing seats w/roll cage and 5point harness riding on some Khumo Victoracer V700's? If I only had a couple extra thousands sitting around.

 

here ya go
engine
-26B n/A
-peripheral port
-hardened stationaries
-3-window bearings
-FD rotor bearing
-FD rotor housings
-FD rotors
-balanced e-shaft
-hardened rotors
-titanium tension bolts

drivetrain
-dont know what tranny could hold the power??
-torsen 4.3 rear end
-Race pressure plate
-4-puck clutch
-upgraded master and slave cylinder
-all SS clutch lines

fuel
-S-AFC
-walbro fuel pump
-SS fuel lines and rails
-turned up fuel pressure
- Direct port wet shot N20 (100hp jet per rotor)

lube
-dry sump
-royal purple tranny & diff

brakes
-BIG slotted rotors
-SS lines
-BIG Master cylinder
-BIG calipers

intake
-VLIM (Variable length intake manifold)

Suspension
-tein coilover system
-all race bushing
-removed rear steer
-wide *** 17" aluminum wheels
-305+ 17 30 drag radials

Chassis &mods
- Ideally an 85 GSl SE, but since we are in 2nd gen forum 86 base
- titanium Frame that would hold the torque
-Mode 6 widebody kit
-front pivot CF hood
-carbon kevlar body panels
-8-point rollcage
-CF & lexan rear hatch
-stripped interior
-super white paint
-spoiler that is molded to the sides and comes low off the back (dont know what its called)
-wheelie bars

hey it is my dream N/A isnt it??? although technically with a 400 shot of nitrous it isnt N/A..... oh well

the way i figure it that would be about 1100hp to the wheels (if you used the 787B setup)



somebody figure out about how much that would cost.....

Justin

 

you guys have some weak *** dreams......

Justin

 

Not as weak as your super-glue!!!! LOL

 

since my setup is the most powerful one on here can somebody add the other stuff i would need to run it

 

touche my friend.....

 

and then you wake up...

 

exactly and when i win the lotto this will be a dream come true

but this IS my dream, and I salivate to think about it.....

Justin

 

That sounds like my 20B project plans. I'll be able to get started in about 2 weeks...

Except add in a custom 3-piece eccentric shaft and another bearing pressed into the front intermediate shaft (no high rpm flex), a 300 shot of nitrous, and a turbo.

 

Before I do any mods, spend one single cent, I ask myself "Will this appreciably make my driving experience more enjoyable?". Usually the answer is no, and money stays in my wallet that way.

99% of your list is stuff I'd say "no" to...

 

im sure everything could be put to use and make me happy.. they all have purposes.. if your raceing you want it cool... if you want speed and hp high rpms are great.. haveing the fastest n/a around is priceless!!

Halteck E6K
- Stand Alone fuel Maps are great
Full Single exhaust
- I like it better then duals but thats just me
Dual MSD Boxes
- You will need the extra spark
Pressure Plate Balancing
- Needed for 8500+
ACT Clutch
- needed for hard launches
4:30 Gears
-great for faster accel
Aluminum Flywheel
- same as above and revs fast
Flywheel Balancing
- needed for 8500+
Engine Torque Brace
- ya youll need it
3-Window Bearing
- needed for stat gears
Type II Modified Stantionary Gear 13B Front
Type II Modified Stantionary Gear 13B Rear
Type II Bearing
- all that equals 8500+ and punishment
Mazda Factory Race Rotor Bearing
- sweet bearing for 8500+
Ported Manafolds
- more air the better
Remove 6 Ports
- Clean up engine/ weight/ dont need em
FD Alternator
- Want more power for everything
Permacool 16" Fan
- better cooling
89+ Rotors + Counterweight
- lighter/more compression/higher comp
Race Clearancing of Rotors
- needed for 8500+
Race Exhaust Air Injection Passage Plugging
- i really dont dont why this is here??? or what is does
HUGE Street Port
- yeah street port!!
Intake Porting w/resurfacing
- great power mod
Race Exhaust Porting
- bigger power mod
SS Oil Line Set
- SS is way better then stock espically at high pressure
MFR Engine Oil Cooler
- Way lower temps
Rotor Housing Water Jacket Modification
- Extra cooling
Ring & Pinion Gears 4.30 Non-turbo
- Didnt i already do this one?
Alumminum Rad
- better cooling/ weight
Remove a/c , p/s , air pump, etc...
- clean look/not needed/weight
Upgraded Injectors
- yeah youll need fuel
Oil pan baffle
- needed for racing
80 psi Oil pressure regulator (street)
- someone said its good to have
TII Oil Pump
- you need oil baby
Upgraded Oil Jets
- more the better

umm yeah

 

A RB intake manifold W/ a EFI "Holley" style carb would be a better idea

That is one of the reasons why I said a 4 port engine, plus the "go hughe" when porting

 

umm a 20b with the hugest PP running a 51mm ida weber with s5 no turbo 9.7:1 comp rotors

in a nice looking r100

 

use a lake citys manny with the dual weber style t-bodys. you cant get much better than that!

 

Ford 347 stroker/Tremec 5 speed.

 

Actually, you either need a DIS box, or Three MSD boxes, since the trailing runs two separate ignitors.

As for FD alternator, why not just go with a 200 amp aftermarket?

I'd add a supercharger to that list... but of course, then its not an NA.

 

No way, try a ATI-blown 331 stroker with Trick Flow R or AFR 200 heads, a spyder intake, D&D Viper spec six speed to a 4-link 9 inch rear end via a CF drive shaft.

 

When an ATI Procharger is considered N/A, give me a call.

 

****, I keep forgetting the thread title.

In that case.... 460 stroked to 632, carbed, same trans and rearend, running on alcohol.

 

Much better.

 

Nice to see there's someone in the second gen forum who can appreciate something other than a rotary engine for what its worth.

I'm by no means against a V8 swap, I'm against the thought of trying to do it because its cheaper. I'd love a rex with either of the above listed Ford engines. The torque would shred the stock rearend though....

 

http://www.angelfire.com/oh5/izzmus/videos.html

Not naturally aspirated though, it's a bottle rocket But still: DAMN.

re: boinger swap... it won't shred the rearend, just don't run slicks. the tires will slip before you let daylight into the diff case.

rx-7impreza, going back over your list, nitrous makes it no longer N/A. and why bother with just a 100hp shot, go for broke or go home! at least a 250, preferably a 300/750 dual stage setup.

and why ruin a perfectly good gsl-se chassis? start with a '81-83, the rear end geometry is more amenable to drag racing than the revised setup in '84-up cars. but then you'd be pretty much making your own full tube frame chassi no matter what, so that doesn't matter... why even start with a car? just make the tube frame and then rivet on whatever body skin you happen to like in the junkyard. make it an FB one week, and FC the next, a Mustang the one after that just for ***** and giggles...