powrdby13B

Same problem as last time, diff car.
Okay, its got compression and spark. I know this. And gas, too.
The timing should be right, my best friend assured me it is...
Why won't it start? it coughs, but then floods.

Icemark

Gonna need to post a lot more than that. You need to post eveything you have done, what you tested, what you did to get the problem, and I personally would be doing a compression test and post those numbers as well.

DerangedHermit

Did you try a roll start?

powrdby13B

okay, here's a longer version of the above:
I dropped in a ported shortblock to everything else stock. Cept for the porting, midpipe, and CAI its all stock.
I turn the car over, and it coughs and acts like its gonna start... but it doesn't. It also floods very easily (expected...).. I tried a roll start a while ago and it didn't start, but it coughed several times. One rotor compresses real good and the other compresses okay (around 80... way low... but its not broke in yet either). Plus, even on one rotor it should still start.
The ECU throws no code...

Icemark

double check the CAS... you may be 180* out

powrdby13B

tried it, didn't work...
hey also, about the rats nest, because i'm scared it might be a vac leak... IF i disconnect those vac hoses from the solenoids, will it still work? or do I leave the vac hoses plugged in, just not the wire?

Syonyk

Yea, that's about what mine did with the CAS 180 off.

Also, make sure the trailing plugs are connected properly. If they're connected to the wrong plugs, you'll have no-start issues (sound like it's going to, but won't).

Actually... those should have the exact same effect. Check that.

-=Russ=-

powrdby13B

what?

and what about the vac hoses like that??? im j/c
any other good things to check??

vipers

iTrader: (8)

ok.... i just went through this too........ have a friend in another car push yours to about 15 mph then release... dump the clutch (you know how to do this) .........the reason i say use another car is because it took about 10 trys before it started!!! pushing it that many times gets really tiring!!! we almost gave up hope, but it started!!! doing it once probubly wasnt enough!! keep trying!

Syonyk

The leading plugs fire at the same time.

The trailing plugs fire separately. If the plug wires are on the trailing coil backwards, the trailing plugs will be firing on the wrong rotor. If the CAS is 180* off, the trailing plugs will be firing on the wrong rotor. If the CAS is 180* out, and the wires are reversed, everything should work properly.

Not something I'm planning to try, but theoretically...

-=Russ=-

powrdby13B

well thats neat LoL
I got it started after a mile or so of dragging...
but now it acts almost like its got a bad AFM... but it shouldn't have a bad AFM LoL...
it starts, and as long as I give it gas it revves... until i stop giving it a ton of gas, then it dies...

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear it started. Lemme give you a tip from when mine has flooded due to bad injectors and does the same sputtering start thing (my compression rocks BTW).

1.) Get some candles, any color, the long skinny ones and a couple of smaller aromatic ones (like flowers scented ebrry goodness and such) works best.

2.) Put the key in the ignition, and turn it to the ACC position (right before you actually start it).

3.) Grab two wine glasses, and a good vintage. Boxed wine works, but only if your car is a cheap ***** (like mine). Beer may also work, depends on your tastes and what the car likes.

4.) Light the candles and place them around the engine bay. Put on some love music, pour a glass for your car, and one for yourself, and romance it until it starts.

It works for my car, or else I'm too sauced by the end of it all too know what I did to get it working.

cwsttu

sounds like you have my problem now... i had a bad afm and it would idle fine sometimes but when you try to move the car it would starve and bog out.... test the afm and see if it is in spec with the factory manual

cwsttu

oh and by the way just because it starts doenst mean its not the afm cause mine started many times... just never ran right till i got another afm and then all my problems were gone

powrdby13B

mine only goes when its at WOT... otherwise it decelerates and dies... LoL.. thats a symptom of the AFM, right??

but right now i have a far more serious problem... it seems to be pouring hot foamy oil out of somewhere... maybe a oil cooler line, maybe the oil pressure regulator... hell, maybe the oil filter... but no matter what it is, i now have about NO oil whatsoever... so its time for a short break while i run to the store..

Makenzie71

One time my car kept flooding...and I kept de-flooding it and it'd run for about 3 seconds before it'd flood. I got mad, walked across the driveway and picked up my 25lb sledge (huge ************) and started walking back to the car. Just before I was about to nail the engine (I was aiming for the waterpump area) she started and never gave me any problems again.

vipers

iTrader: (8)

so does this mean i get 2 props???? lol...... so push start got it workin (or "dragging")

vipers

iTrader: (8)

oh...and that is aslo common (from what i hear)..... go to www.rotaryresurrection.com
go to how to break in a rebuild.... they say it will not idle for **** for about 3 hours!

powrdby13B

amazing. Two props.
Only problem now is all oil that was in the car is now on the driveway...

vipers

iTrader: (8)

lol....im sure the car smoked like crazy too!!!!

powrdby13B

yeah, i didn't actually expect it to start when it did... so i had my window down... and... yeah, that sucked... it made me thirsty LoL
i'm debating as to whether I should attempt to isolate and fix the oil leak since its dark outside. Any help would be greatly appreciated.