TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Hello, this is my 3rd tranny. (88 gtu N/A). I was wondering if there is any way to make shifting smoother? Right now it wont let me shift from 1st to 2nd or 2nd - 3rd and so on with out a hard stop / click at higher rpm. My FIRST tranny was awesome, but was bad before I got it. (3rd and 4th syncros were bad). But when I was at the track I could be at 7k rpm not let go of the gas and just put the cluch in and throw it in to second. (no resistance putting it into second) and then chirp the tires. (I have lsd) Same with putting it into 3rd there was almost NO resistance. But now its like its really stiff when im at high rpm. (feels perfect if im standing still with the clutch in)

Is there anything I can do to take out the resistance? or at least lower it? Sometimes even when I have the clutch to the ground and I try to shift into second fast now it grinds. (confused)

Anyways, my last tranny question didnt get answered so im guessing this one wont either. (this forum doesnt seem to like tranny questions for some reason. Anyways, thanks.)

Denholm

Replacing shifter bushings always helps.. Also swap your tranny fluid for either Royal Purple, or Redline.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

worn sycros or thick tranny fluid or both.

this forum doesn't like some questions because they are posted at the wrong time or posters get impatient. i often won't help those impatient people because they often are the ones less thankful for assistance.

title is the key to getting help, i often skip alot of threads just due to the title.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply. My shifter bushings are in perfect shape (changed them with the tranny), but my dad game me some like 80-90 gear oil, so I will try some royal purple. (I think they have it at schucks.) What weight should I be looking for?

Whats weird is if the car is parked or not at high rpm it shifts EXTREAMLY smooth. No clicks to hang ups at ALL. I will try the tranny fluid, and figure out how to change the shifter fluid. Anybody know where the drain is for that? (also what to put in?)

Thanks.

Denholm

I think I ran Royal Purple, 75w90 if I can remember correctly. And I just threw a bit of that in the shifter tower aswell when i replaced my bushings.

Denholm

Also, if you shift hard - and slam your tranny from gear to gear when you drive daily.. Your synchro's won't appreciate it much, and there isn't really anything you can do about that.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

ok, here is a little bit of an explanation of how things work:

the reason it shifts fine at idle es because of the low engine/input shaft RPMs. when shifting near redline there is over a 2000RPM changeover between gears, the job of the syncros is to slow the input shaft down so that the input and output shaft speeds match so in effect it is like a brake for the shafts to match speeds and at higher engine RPMs this speed difference gets more and more out of range so shifting becomes harder.

next explanation is the sycnros themselves, the syncros begin to wear with age and much like a worn brake pad they do not do their job as well so slowing down the input shaft is not as easy of a task as it once was.

now onto lubrication, thicker fluids will act as a buffer for the syncro braking process in effect saving the life of the syncro but decreasing the ability of the syncro to slow down the input shaft fast enough for a quick shift. thinner oils sacrifice syncro and transmission bearing life but increase shifting speed, thicker oils decrease shifting speed but will increase transmission and syncro life. the best medium would be a good quality synthetic 75W-90 gear oil, you can go thinner but it will decrease the life of the transmission/syncros.

-Ben

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

ok, so I just got back from schucks. I got some "Max-Gear" High Performance Automotive Gear oil" Its 85W140. I got 1 of those because I was going to put that in the shifter.
http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/mgeara.html

The next thing I got (4 of them) Is called Syncromomax. (both of these are by Royal Purple) "High Performance Manual Transmission Fluid" It doesnt have a weight. *shrug*
http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/scmax.html


So im guessing its going to be VERY light. How easy is it to change/upgrade syncros? I have 1 tranny left that I havnt put in / blew up. (only had car less then a month haha) and im thinking I should take it apart and put some high performance syncros on her.

By the way, if someone could tell me if the above fluids is what I need to be putting in or not ASAP, that would be awesome.

Thankz again.

dgracing29

i know this was mentioned before but make sure that your shifter bushings are well lubricated ( gear oil and even bearing packing grease works decent)

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Try Pennzoil Syncrhomesh. That stuff works magic on trannys that are thought to be toast.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Ok, just did that. (It made all the gears smoother) but it still refuses to go into second fast. Its like, when your going 20 and you try to down shift into first, but it takes like a second for it to go in. (but its...... from first to second) hehe.
Sorry just trying to make it clear. I think the closest hit would be the second syncro is gone. Can a bad syncro STOP it from going into a gear strait from another gear for a sec?

But if anyone could answer me if I should put the 4 royal purple sycrosomething bottles into my tranny or just return them and get the syncromesh thing that would be awesome.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

IIRC the 1-2 shift is notoriously bad on older tranny's. Mine did the same thing if I tried to shift too fast (mainly only at the dragstip or similar style acceleration). I believe it is just due to a worn synchro, but correct me if I'm wrong.

dgracing29

well what exactly is it doing when u try to put it in 2nd? is it hitting the gate and making a cranking noise like a mishift or is the engine bogging down right when u go into second?

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Synchromesh dude. Might cure the problem, seriously.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I can't speak for the thread starter, but with me the shifter just kinda sat there and wouldn't go in. No noise, similar to if you try to put it in reverse when your driving forward.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

IF I force it REALLY hard and really fast it makes a miss shift noise. GGGRRRRRiinnddd (and I feel it in the stick) (even though the clutch is alllll the way down) but if I just do it 1/2 hard it just feels like it hits something for .1 of a second and stops the sticks momentum completly and then on the rebound lets it go into second. I hope that helps?

dgracing29

well try not to force it too much....its most likely your synchros...but im not sure at this point lol

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, thats exactly how it is with me. I'm pretty sure its the synchros. I just make it a point to take my time on the 1-2 shift.

deadRX7Conv

You require a 90wt gear oil. Use the require 90wt gear oil and NOTHING ELSE.

Use Redline MT-90, SpecialtyFormulations MTL-R, or Amsoil MTG.

140wt gear oil is TOO THICK and foolish.
Even the RP Maxgear 75w90, IMO, is too thick(its blended on the higher side of the 90wt scale). I use it to quiet down noisy transmissions.

The RP Synchromax is the same visc as ATF(light 20wt) and is too thin, rougly half the visc of what your tranny requires.

Pennzoil Synchromesh is too thin also, roughly 2/3's the viscosity that is needed.

Here's my simple argument against gear oils that are TOO THICK: Take a spoon and stir your coffee. See how easy it is to stir that thin coffee. Now, take that same spoon and stir a jar of honey. All those moving parts in that transmission will be harder and slower to move in that thick gear oil. More effort = HP lost. You'll use more force to stir that honey thick gear oil. Your shifts will be slower and more difficult.

Thin oils don't provide the proper barrier lubrication. They squeeze out too easily. You will shorten the life of all wear components.

If your shifter bushings are new, if the drivetrain mounts aren't worn, if your clutch is bled & hydraulics are good, if you're using one of the 3 fluids that I recommended above & the level is correct, and you are still have shifting problems, rebuild your transmission.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

ok, I will go back and return the syncromaxes. (*smile* good was like 15$ each haha.) So, is the stuff I have in there now BAD? (carquest premium gear oil 80w90 for limited slip) My dad got me that stuff because he got a discount or something. But if I need to find redline, where do I Find it at? Only one schucks here had the royal purple. Im about to go to seattle so if I need to go to a popular tranny shop or something there im all for it. Let me know. Thanks.

(the more I think about it it has to be the second gears syncro (if they have seperate syncros) is gone. (*sad face*) has anyone heard of some performance sycros I can put in there? I drive this car hard just daily driving because ... well I just do. :0) Any info would be awesome thanks! )

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

a little hard to take my time when the supra next to me wants to play.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I know the feeling, but its better than blowing the shift entirely.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

(already done it twice)

most likly not my fault, the first tranny was already hurt, second tranny the 3rd and 4th sycros were VERY bad) They are both sitting here in my drive way, if someone could tell me if its an option to just fix the sycros that would be aweeeeesome.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

there is no upgrade for syncros, you'll be lucky to find any aftermarket ones and the OEM mazda ones cost about $350 for the syncros alone.

Boostmaniac

Is that per syncro or for the full set?