jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I removed everything from my engine bay to repaint it while my engine was out.
When I replaced everything, excluding the non-essentials I could not get the starter to engage the Main grounds are all correctly in place so they are not a problem.. I tripple checked the grounds.
So back ground. Haltech E6X is running the car. S5 Turbo
Now when I Depress the clutch and I turn the key to the start position I get nothing not a click nothing. Would this be a problem with the main relay and/or starter cut?
What exactly does the main Relay power?
Thank You

HAILERS

The starter circuit starts with the 80amp fuse.....to one of the three ignition harness plugs....thru the key when in START ......to the clutch INTERLOCK switch........to the Starter Cut Relay (only cars with Theft Protection).......to the starter solenoid.

Main Relay feeds12vdc to the fuel injectors, ECU, and the black/white wire on each solenoid on the rack plus a couple more. Plus the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay. Not much to do with the starter itself. Using memory here.

RETed

You might have painted it TOO good.
You might need to scrape some paint off the ground point for the main engine ground for better conductivity.


-Ted

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

ok I still cannot get anything when I bridge the connectrs on the starter it spins,
However there isn't 12v on the little wire that goes to the starter how do I go about checking things... i heard of a fusible / fusable link that might have burnt out.
Icemark ?
Aaron ?
Thanks guy's a speedy accurate and consice responce is appreciated.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

could anybody tell me where I MIGHT BE able to gind the fusible link in the starter wire?

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I might be just posting at bad times, but nobody has ever replaced the fusible link in the starter system that could tell me where in the harness to locate it?

Icemark

There is no fuseable link in the starter power lead

HAILERS

The path is from the starter switch......to the clutch interlock switch......to the Starter Cut Relay (only IF you car had theft protection).....then to the starter solenoid.

That's for a series four car. I assume a series five is similar.

Jumper your clutch interlock switch and see if things improve (voltage at the starter solenoid when going to START).

icarus179

I had that same problem but it was after I took out the XMSN. I was SURE I put the starter back in right because it stayed connected. It turned out that when I was putting the battery back in...I installed it backwards. As soon as I saw sparks I switched it around. It must have melted the connecter in the main wire going from the 80 amp main fuse to the kickpanel fuse box. THAT was where the problem was. I took out that connector and wired it straightt .works great now.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Icemark that is one less thing for me to look for Hailers, thanks for that as well. I guess It will be more hours of trying to figure out the Electrical demons with my car.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I swear mine is possesed by a british car sometimes.
Anyway, have you checked everything in the path to see if one wire has 12v while the next one doesn't? Always check for voltage on every component first to see if you can narrow down where the problem is. Make sure you check on both sides of each component.

HAILERS

The Interlock switch (on a series four) is way up there at the very top of the clutch pedal. It has two wires going to it. Disconnect that plug and jumper both those wire together to bypass the interlock switch.

If the starter still does not work, then go to the Starter Cut Relay. It's near the Main Relay. Lets pretend you car has no Theft Protection. Then the relay will not be there, BUT there will be the connector that goes to that relay and IT will have a JUMPER PLUG inserted into it. This jumper plug is BLUE on a series four car and hard to miss. Pull that plug apart and set the jumper part to the side. Then take a piece of wire and jumper 12v from the battery to the black/white wire in the connector. The starter should spin, proving that length of wire is good to the starter (put the car out of gear first).

If the starter spins, then look at that Starter Cut Relay again. It has two Black/Green wires in it. ONE of them goes to the Interlock switch you just jumpered. Ohm out that wire from the Starter Cut Relay plug to the Interlock switch.

Now say your car has a Starter Cut Relay in the car, unlike the above scenario. Not good. the best thing you could do is remove the relay and toss it on the bench in the shed. Then get a short piece of wire and put two blade type connectors on each end. Put one end of the wire in the black/white socket on the Starter Cut Relay plug and put the other end into the socket for the Black/Green wire that goes to the starter solenoid. Now start the car.

You might be able to just pull the connector off the Theft Protection Unit under the passengers dash and accomplish the same thing. In that case leave the Starter Cut Relay in place and make no jumper wire.

All the above is for a series four car. I've no series five schematic, but I'm betting they work the same.