88T2_700

Ok, I have an 88 that I'm trying to take the eccentric pulley bolt off of. I've read the 3rd gen thread about this and I wanted to know how much different is the 2nd gen. I've tried everything short of an impact gun.

Fingers

dude, you need an impact gun. its nearly impossible otherwise. Try heating the bolt up first. Its torqued to about 600FTLBS if i recall correctly, which is an ABSURD amount. Nothing short of a good quality mac tools impact wrench will get it off.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If the engine is out of the car, this is easy. Get your 19MM socket onto a 3 ft breaker bar, remove the oil pan. Set the engine on the floor, then step on it to keep it still. Now slightly bounce on the breaker bar and it should pop loose. I normally lock the flyhwheel with a pice of chain attached to the hoisting bracket and a clutch bolt.

If it is in the car, lay the breaker bar on the fender and SLIGHTLY blip the starter. Should take it off easily.

Please read the Mazdatrix FAQ aboute removing this bolt so you don't ruin your engine.

Icemark

Its only torqued in with about 85ft/lbs and a little blue loctite.

Not 600 ft/lbs. 600 ft/lbs and the head of the bolt would shear right off.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It's the flywheel nut that is torqued to 300 LBS, and it always comes off with a 10 ft breaker bar.

Icemark

The e-shaft bolt is only hard when you don't have a flywheel (like on this rebuildable motor that is sitting on the side of my house).

HAILERS

***onto a 3 ft breaker bar**** make sure its a 1/2 inch drive or even better a 3/4 inch drive. The smaller drive will shear off. Buy a Craftsman, you can return it for another if you break it. I exchanged a 3/8 broken one for a 3/4 inch drive. Do as described in the post above. It will come off.

***(like on this rebuildable motor that is sitting on the side of my house).**** er, ah, which side of the house and when will you be out of town with no one at home? And while we're at it, please leave your electrical crimpers nearby so I don't have to break in the house to get them. Thank you. P.S. please tie the dog up.

Fingers

my mistake

Icemark

Actually I use a 3/8" Snap On breaker bar for engines that are still in the car, and have never had any problems.

And about the motor, if you can figure out where I live, and a way to open the 8ft gate/fence, disable the dog, and then pick the motor up off of the engine roller/stand/holder and put it in the back of your truck without the nosy neighbor next door seeing you, you can have it. It would probably make my wife happy to get rid of it and the other thousand of parts laying around the garage as well.

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

yeah i just went through this problem. Did pretty much the same thing Aaron cake said. After breaking a 3/8 drive wrench i went to 1/2. I slipped a long piece of pipe on it and went to work. After about 4 tries it came loose. It was a pain though. I wish you good luck on getting it loose.

88T2_700

Thanks for all your help everyone. I'll let you all know how this turns out and how I did it (and any broken bones that come along with it).

HAILERS

****Actually I use a 3/8" Snap On breaker bar for engines that are still in the
car, and have never had any problems.*****

Obviously not using enough locktite! It's probably ready to fall off at any minute!

Icemark

Ha ha, no that is removing Mazda factory installed E-shaft bolts...

Snap on tools... there is no other choice.

SaabGuy

I used a 20 inch breaker bar and rigged it laying against the frame.

Make sure you check your motor mounts afterward though.

gtrr4

iTrader: (2)

If it is in the car, lay the breaker bar on the fender and SLIGHTLY blip the starter. Should take it off easily.



This would work great for me, however I already got everything torn apart. DOHP!!

Jason

buttsjim

Lets see... 300 ft-lb divided by 10 ft equals...

yeah--I'd guess a 10' breaker bar would work fairly well! (lol)

puck1263

put the car in first gear and set the parking brake. Use a breaker bar. As soon as possible, use a pole, 2x4, or something to push the clutch in and leave the clutch pushed in until the bolt is ready to be hell-tightened again. Not pushing in the clutch can cause your spacers on your e-shaft to come out of place and everything to get smashed and screwed up when the bolt is re-installed. Read mazdatrix's warning on this. A mechanic who had to work on my car did not push the clutch in and smashed my needle bearings.

Turbo II-FB

ohh crap.... I removed my flywheels and now I have to remove the front main pulley bolt waht should I do guys?

Turbo II-FB

bump

Turbo II-FB

bump

Rx7Ridah

iTrader: (8)

I'd find a way to stop the pulley from moving such as a very large pry bar and use it to pry the pulley away from the motor while loosening or impacting off. may need an assistant for this one.