HAILERS

Remove the tps's connector and start the car. Any car will run without the TPS. If the car still exibits the same problem.......remove the two lower sparkplugs. Have someone crank the engine. Put your finger in one hole at a time. Do the pulses from one hole seem the same as the other plug hole. NO? Bad apex seal. A gonner.

RotaryPower27

yea i checked compression, I havent checked it with a gauge but im getting pretty good pulses out of both rotars

WAYNE88N/A

CruzinPerformance can do the injectors, he's up near you somewhere. Rich will take care of you, look up the site...

"pretty good pulses" is a relative statement. Gauge is no more than $25 at your auto parts store...

Did you do the TPS thing that Hailers mentioned?

RotaryPower27

no im not gonna get a chance to work on it today. but ill get on that first thing tommorrow. No he didnt tell me what the engine will do if the tps is bad, and the seals are good

WAYNE88N/A

I think he said it for more of a comparison-type troubleshooting step, like...If the engine does something different with the TPS disconnected than it did with it connected, it might be the problem, no?

RotaryPower27

yea i think your right, ill do all the things everyone has said change filters and plugs and stuff then ill get back to you all. Thanks

HAILERS

Take the TPS plug off and then go for a ride. Is anything different?

I was thinking a sticking tps might be a problem, possiblly.

Do something similar with the pressure sensor. Remove its vac lline....plug the vac line....go for a drive and see if anything is different.

Last.......this is not an insult.........go to your LEAD coils wires. Trace them using your hand. Are you SURE they are going to the bottom sparkplugs?

Then grab the Trail Coils most forward wire and trace it to the top most forward sparkplug wire. Do it even if you KNOW that you have them on right. Do it again.

You know, a car can be timed wrong and still idle ok. Its when you put a load on it that the bad timing will show up. Put a timing light on it at the very least.

This is a turbo, right:????????? On a turbo throttle, unlike a non turbo, the secondary throttle outboard plates are closed ALL the time UNTIL you press the pedal. Their linkage rides on a black waffer thin cam riding against a damper. These wear out and causes the outboard throttle plates to stick closed. When they stick closed, the car does not accelerate for flip. Sometimes the acceleration is good when they don't stick, other times the car is a dog because they stick closed.

The problem in the above para can be overcome by removing the thin rod with spring that part of the linkge for the secondary throttle plates and either saftey wiring the linkage open or use a zip tie. YOu have to take the intercooler off to observe the linkage on the fwd part of the throttle body.

RotaryPower27

Well thank you to all that helped. I changed fuel filter, went through all the vacum lines and stuff and decided to give the ecu one more look. Well the primary rear injector was only getting like 3 volts so i replaced the plug with a better one and put it all back together, after tinkering with the timing for a bit WHALA. She runs like a striped *** ape now. Thank you again to everyone for your help in the infamous S4 TII ----> S5 N/A swap. I will be doing a bit of a write up on all the wire splices and stuff i had to do just for any poor sucker that wants to give this a try.